Organic is Totally within your reach, it's actually easier than the other kinds cause your basically letting nature do the work. Your job is to create ballance, this starts with good soil (lots of organic material (OM) mixed in). Good soil pretty much takes care of needing fertilizers but you can buy mixed organic fertilizers and it's harder to mess up with organics and burn your plants as it is with chemical fertilizers. For bugs you use more gentle techniques, you encourage the 'good bugs' which eat the 'bad bugs' and if something gets out of wack, you ask and someone will know how to fix it, besides you would have to learn which chemicals and they are really terrible for the soil, the beneficial organisms and bugs, and you. I just started my first garden since I was a child. I had been doing container gardening but in the ground is different. First what do you wanna grow? I'll assume vegies and I'll suggest what I'm doing-cause that's what I know. I'm doing 'square foot gardening' this is simply intensive gardening, you grow stuff in beds instead of in rows, you grow things close together and all mixed up. I think all the info you need on 'square foot gardening (SFG)' you can find on the '(SFG) forum' so check out their facs and they are really nice so ask questions. The author of SFG suggests you start with 1 4x4 block for each person you want to feed-for salad vegies you need more space for bigger gardens. I have the book and it is informative but most of the info is online-but you might check it out from the library. It is a good book. I have several gardening books (too many-though not the southern gardening one) and by far the best in my opinion is The Vegetable Gardener's Bible: Discover Ed's High-Yield W-O-R-D System for All North American Gardening Regions. He also does bed gardening but doesn't section the space like square foot gardening does and he is organic. The other technique you might consider is lasagna gardening, the soil forum knows all about this technique of layering compostables and mulches to create a raised bed that composts over time (also called sheet composting) and I think the soil forum Fac covers this-they are nice too so ask them too. I'm laying a lasagna bed right now-cause I can't face digging another garden in Tx clay gumbo. Fall is a perfect time to do a lasagna garden cause it can mellow and compost all winter to be ready for spring planting-though you can plant right away. Things that are easy to grow: Radishes, Carrots, Bush Beans (green beans), swiss chard, arugula seems easy, zucchinni grows like mad but takes tons of space. Oh do some herbs, like basil, oregano, mint (can be invasive), dill, cilantro many herbs are easier and they tend to protect plants against some of the pests and their flowers attract beneficial insects. With all respect to organica's excellent advice, I would hold off on the compost pile, I'm starting one now but as a beginner you just need to buy compost at lowes or someplace and incorporate in your soil to get started. I find composting sorta intimidating-though I'm getting over it and its a really great thing to do, I just think it's too much all at once for a beginner. Don't stress about it, its for enjoyment. I have to remember that sometimes :) Have fun, Kristi

Donna that helps I just wish you were here to show me how to get started and I cumb enough not to try pushing then to the other end of the needle ~~ and I had not yet thought of pushing the other stiches to the middle. I will try that again.. I dont know now how many times I have casted on and and started only to start all over LOL Thanks for your help I will probably be back for more help hugs Imabest

Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"

Yes I just read your message above Alicia, I would love to send you an SASE, I know what that is but iim brand new here so no clue how to send messages etc,...I did change my account to recieve messages,.... but let me know I'm trying so hard to get my place growing, I just moved here and open to all kinds of ideas, flowers or veggies......I have a few seeds to trade but not much you probably have all them already or better. Thanks so much in advance:) Jessica