See link below, it gives normal first and last frost dates for all over the US. How early exactly you want to start out depends a lot on what you're seeding, but my general rule of thumb is 4-6 weeks before the last frost date. For my area, last frost is April 3rd. It's suggestion of going 2 weeks earlier than that is generally a good one, so that would make it March 20th. 4-6 weeks prior to that would be 2/7-2/21. I'm getting antsy though, so I've already started quite a few peppers. I'll wait until end of Feb to start my tomatoes and corn though. Here is a link that might be useful: Frost Dates

I know about improvement but was in no shape to mix all that stuff in myself. Was lucky to get someone to rototill it for me. We ground up all the grass and everything, the grass was healthy. Then it took several months to settle down to level as it was mounded for months (and bare). I have all that stuff you mentioned, but it is too late to do the whole works. My idea of gardening is dig, chop it up as fine as possible, plant, then use Miracle Gro (not on my new roses). I just had 12 roses planted spaced out there, the horticultural student who did that for me thought the soil was ok and drained well. Thanks for the advice, will read the link tomorrow. I'll worry about the other seeds later, but you did give me an idea. Baby's breath grows in a huge mound if you are lucky, don't need a whole row of the stuff, so I can scoop the soil out a few places and replace with potting soil. BB you cover 1/8 inch which is a little better than surface sow. My peat I found gets crusty when dry even mixed with the potting soil, probably mixed in too much the last batch. Maybe if I throw in some more pearlite that will help. The potting soil holds moisture better than anything yet I've worked with, and then I can mist like you said, although if it heats up again, it will be like four times a day and not every other day because the surrounding dry soil will grab the water before I put the hose away so I'll water that, too. Thanks a lot for the help. Maybe I can get it a little better, not sure how now, don't have a composter but can dress it with something at some point. Just can't work it in, it will have to leach down and let the plants do the work, maybe throw leaves on there in the fall, plenty of those. I wish I could do everything exactly the right way, but I have to do most of it by myself and do well to get anything done. I think I'm having more rototilling done, and this time I'll throw that stuff on there during the process and let it get worked in that way. I didn't know any better before. Sorry I'm so long-winded.

Depends on how cold. If it's just a bit below 60, you should be ok. You could pull them up closer to a house for extra protection, or if it's easy enough move it in and out. I do both in spring to get a jump on growing season here. We have a brick town home with an enclosed back yard and many nights they just stay right next to the brick. If it's repeated nights, or 50 or below, your basil will stagnate and quit growing. Keep in mind that basil is annual, so you can extend it for a while, but there's a point to just start new, from seed or cuttings. I say this having harvested all mine today due to expected frost tonight, so your 60 in Dec is sounding nice!

Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"