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Matching existing trimwork

11 years ago

We're starting to plan a remodel of our bedroom, which was an addition onto the house 40-50 years ago(can't really tell, but it is definitely pre-70s). It was finished with builder grade materials of the time, and doesn't match the rest of the trim work in the house (built 1925). The attached photo shows the rough dimensions of the original trim work.

I would like the tie the addition into the original house more and replace the trim on the doors and windows to match the existing wood. Any ideas how I would go about matching the thickness of the existing?

Stripping the linen closet to the right of the photo (you can see the edge of it) has shown that the woodwork is either oak or southern pine. It looks like Red Oak to me, but my dad, who grew up in a house of the same age has mentioned that Southern Pine was used as a oak look-a-like. Any truth to that?

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Comments (9)

tpirson
Original Author
11 years ago
Here's one of the windows.
tpirson
Original Author
11 years ago
Here's a photo of the linen closet drawers, partway through the stripping process. I believe the woodwork matches throughout the house.
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sombreuil_mongrel
11 years ago
I think it's actually ash stained/finished to look like oak.
Casey
tpirson
Original Author
11 years ago
Hmm, I hadn't thought of that. I don't have experience identifying wood, so it could well be. That said, any ideas how I could match the existing in board thickness?

Attached is another view of one of the completed drawers.
mateo21
11 years ago
Have you checked with any local woodworking shops? These aren't crazy dimensions -- are you planning on painting the trim? If you're painting, matching wood species doesn't matter, go with something inexpensive that paints well (poplar, clear pine, etc.). A local woodworker with a table saw and thickness planer should be able to batch out your pieces in a matter of hours.
tpirson
Original Author
11 years ago
I hadn't considered that, mainly because I don't know of any woodworking shops. I'm still debating painting vs staining. We've only been in the house 5 months, but I'm planning for future work.
User
11 years ago
Millwork businesses have most trim profiles or can make it to match measurements. The reason you cannot just go to a home improvement store is simply the thicknesses of the thicker pieces.

Most home improvement stores stock basic sizes of hardwoods or pine, which are 3/4" thick and thinner.

To best mill the stock you need, a shop needs to start with rough sawn 8/4 stock---that is a full 2"+ thick.

They resaw the stock into two thicknesses of a nominal 1&1/4" and 3/4". Then plane the sides to the desired dimensions of 1" and 1/2" and edge design.

The 3/4" thickness would start with 4/4 stock(1" thick rough sawn) or simply buy 3/4" thick stock.

A small shop like mine could buy three thicknesses of sawmill cut(rough cut) in 5/4, 4/4, and 3/4(rough sawn lumber is much less expensive than that which is finished----which is what the process is of which I described. Milling that much stock is a huge chore, however, for a small shop.

The other option would be to order those thicknesses/widths from a full service lumberyard and pay for all the milling that way.
virgilcarter
11 years ago
Unless you will be matching existing trim at a specific location, the thickness is not as critical as the width and any sort of visible routed detailing.

If my main concern was to replace the "newer" trim to resemble the "older" trim, I'd look at the widths of the trim pieces, and any detailing. I'd also match the finishes (if I liked them). If your're painting, you can use almost any wood species (pine, for example, needs sealing to keep knots from bleeding through).

Good luck on your project.
User
11 years ago
1" thick trim boards are 5/4" nominal (thickness before surfacing) and 3/4" thick trim boards are 1" nominal. These are standard thicknesses and available anywhere at no premium.

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