Oil it everyday! That sounds crazy. I sewed with mine for years and probably didn't oil it once a year. I would have had it serviced and the oiling was done then. I know I did some oiling myself but that was so long ago, I don't recall the process. Have it serviced and see if you can watch how it is oiled or have it explained. I'm using my 221 again now, so I will be interested in the process. Carole

Hi Bug-girl:

I collect and use antique and vintage sewing machines and I'm here to tell you: Don't freak out! 8^)

I know the sort of people who "are afraid to use them very much". They are like my friend Lisa's MIL who is so afraid of making a mistake that she calls Lisa over when she needs to change a needle! You don't need to be afraid to use this machine. It was designed to be easy to use and maintain. It's not as complicated as it looks.

I take it you don't have a manual, so your first step is to get one. There are several dealers that sell replacement manuals. Let me know if you'd like contact information for one.

It's no biggie to take off the faceplate and you'll want to set it on its side and take off the bottom plate and oil everything under there, too. However, before oiling be sure to clean away any lint build-up that you find. Now, anywhere you see a little hole, put in a drop or two of oil. The same goes for any joints that you can see rubbing together. There is no such thing as too much oil.

You might want to print off the oiling chart from the on-line manual and just go through the process--check off each step as you go. Once you've done it, it won't seem so scary.

It won't need oiling every day! I oil my machines about once a week when I'm sewing steadily on them (4-8 hrs/day), once a month when I'm just doing light sewing.

Don't oil the motor--instead get a bit of motor lube or use a bit of petroleum jelly on a toothpick. Put a dab in the lube ports on the motor and then heat it with a blowdryer on the hottest setting to melt it so that it runs down into the motor. Replacement motors are readily available and not terribly expensive if something does go wrong.

You will want to clean the lint out of the feed dogs. Take off the cover plate and use a small paint brush to wipe out the lint in this area.

You can get oil and motor lube in the Walmart fabric department or at any sewing machine dealer. Singer sells a good brand of oil. If you can't find oil there, try a sporting goods store and get some gun oil. Or ask at an auto parts store and see if they have Tri-flow, which has been getting good reviews from the collector lists.

Annie

Yeah, oiling everyday sounds like a big mess of oil. I thought that had to be wrong. Do they make new motors or do you have to get a rebuilt out of parts of dead machines? I am thinking if worst comes to worst and I destroy the motor.

You would have to do some real damage to destroy the motors on these little babies. These machines are probably the very easiest for the owner to maintain! If I can do it, you can do it.

Get a manual, study the diagrams where they show you where to put a drop of oil. I did mine first with oil in one hand and manual in the other hand. And I felt great after I had mastered this the first time! This is a snap compared to threading a serger! LOL!

This should be a link to the manual online. Scroll down until you see Singer 221K Featherweight.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sewing Machine manuals online

They make new motors. In all honestly, unless you dunk the motor in a bathtub full of water and turn it on, I don't think you're going to do any damage to it.

Annie

I got my 221 in 1964. Believe it or not, my manual is in pristine condition, not even a smudge of dirt. The instructions are clear on oiling. They recommend every six months. Annie's usage is unusual so I can see every week.

I would agree that this is one tough machine. I think it was made before planned obsolescence became the rule.

I got my Singer K222 in l962 and have not had a problem with it. Same motor, same everything. Use it and enjoy it without fear. Budster

It's interesting to me to see how "new" Carole and Budster's Featherweights are. I'm used to seeing them from the 30s and 40s because as collectors, we tend to look for the oldest models we can get. The 1951 Centennial versions are an exception--they are quite collectible.

Annie

{{!gwi}}

This is the photo of mine. It's one of the older ones. I am not sure. I mean it's not super old, but it's not a younger one.

Yes, I do have the links to manual with the oiling instructions but it was so complicated, and I can't even find the wells. So, tommorrow, I am taking it by a sewing shop and getting someone to show me how to do it.

I am not even sure how to remove the front plate to get the oil in there. I let it just sit for many years, so I want to oil it, now, before I go on and use it for another six months.

Clearly I would not oil everyday, but if one was making a project, and worked on it like for a couple hours daily, at the end of a week or so, it would add up to using it constantly. I think they need to be more clear, such was after X number of hours of use oil the machine.

I copied the following from the online manual:

To Oil the Machine
To ensure easy running the machine requires to be oiled so that all moving parts in contact are covered with a film of oil. These should never be allowed to become dry.
If used constantly, the machine should be oiled daily, while with moderate use, an occasional oiling is sufficient. A drop of oil should be applied at each of the points indicated by the unlettered arrows in Figs. 18, 19, and 20. Oil holes are provided in the machine for bearings which cannot be directly reached. When oiling insert the oil can spout well into the oil holes.
Turn back the cover at the top of the machine and oil the moving parts inside the arm as indicated in Fig. 18, and occasionally apply a small quantity of Singer Motor Lubricant to the teeth of the gear (A), then replace the cover.
Take out the thumb screw (B, Fig 18) and remove the face plate. Put one drop of oil into each of the holes and joints indicated in Fig. 19, then replace the face plate and thumb screw.
Occasionally apply a drop of oil at the hook bearing at B in Fig. 12.
To reach the parts underneath the bed turn the machine over on its side. Remove the thumb nut and felt washer from the screw (E, Fig 20) and take off the cover plate. Apply oil at the holes and bearings indicated in Fig. 20, and occasionally apply a small quantity of Singer Motor Lubricant to the teeth of the gears (D). Replace the bed cover plate, washer and thumb nut, being careful not to fasten the latter too tightly.
To Lubricate the Motor
USE ONLY SINGER LUBRICANT FOR LUBRICATING THE MOTOR. A tube of this lubricant is sent with the machine.
Singer Electric Motor Lubricant is a specially prepared non-flowing compound which is not affected by varying temperatures. It is the only lubricant which will positively lubricate the motor. Other lubricants, including oil or ordinary grease, must not be used for lubricating the motor as they are harmful for this purpose.
When the machine is despatched from the factory the two motor grease cups (A, Fig. 21) are filled with sufficient lubricant for approximately six months use, under ordinary circumstances.
At least once every six months thereafter, these grease tubes should be refilled with Singer Electric Motor Lubricant. To do this, insert the tip of the lubricant tube tube into the hole of each of the grease tubes and force the lubricant through until both grease tubes are filled.

In the early years of sewing machine production "constant use" meant 8hrs/day, so a good rule of thumb is to oil every 8 hours. I oil very generously and I've found that with my treadles which are operating at fairly slow speeds, once a week (40 hrs.) is plenty.

FYI--the Singer lubricant referred to is petroleum jelly. They didn't want folks to know that, though. 8^)

Annie

Just wanted to add my Singer came to me second hand...it's from the early 40's if I remember correctly. Now you make me want to check out the Singer website to date it again! LOL. I say it was second hand but who knows it could have been third or fourth hand....doesn't anyone else wonder who had the machines before they came to live with you? I often think I should pen a story about my old treadle....she's a well worn lady who had been owned by a sewer ... that I know from the clues in the drawers. The odd pin caught in the corner, the little "special box" with the single attachment I got, the homemade pin cushion fashioned onto the body of the machine.....which I removed because it was scratching the already scarred surface. She's a grand old lady and she gives me joy just to own her. LOL - sound like a drama queen don't I? Budster.

ok, every eight hours. Thanks, I want to get a plastic box also. I have a white plastic box for my other machines. The black case is super beat up, one of the snaps in front is broken, and the black thing is really heavy. It defeats the point of it being light weight, plus the trays are missing. I have to see if I can get one that is the right size. These boxes are to cover it up from dust and have a handle for transportation.

S.S. AU 61.18.1

I am not sure this correct, I can read it, but what if this is not the right number? I went to the dating webpage, but it has no AU machines listed. I think it could be from the 30's or 40's, not from the 50's or 20's based on when my mother bought it. The number does not say serial number, so maybe I am confused. I guess I have to call Singer, but when I read about how they smashed up these machines (on the ths sewing forum) so no one could pass them on, I got pretty upset, and I am not even sure I want to talk to them now. They probably are not friendly if you are not buy a new machine. I think the 222 also look really nice, and proably do more stuff. The green ones look really cool, and I bet they do zig zag, but of course, I already have a Bernina basic machine to do that.

Here is a link that might be useful: post on the sewing forum

I am pretty certain that Singer never made a Hunter green FW. The early ones were black and later tan was introduced as well as white that had a light celery green cast to it. So if you see a Hunter green, cobalt blue, fire engine red FW or any other color other than black, tan and pale celery/white, you are looking at a painted - not factory finished - machine, and should be priced less than an original color or the buyer is being ripped off.

You might want to do some research online or at the library before you consider another purchase. There is a Featherweight Yahoo Group that you can join and ask lots of questions there also.

I got confused again. I saw a green one, but it's not a featherweight. I am providing a link to a green machine photo on Flickr.I found these greens ones from sewing blogs that people have posted online. They are from the 50's and I bet they are great machines also.

Here is a link that might be useful: Green Singer Sewing Machine

That 185-J3 vintage Singer has it's original color, and it is not Hunter green. It isn't a FW, but it is a nice Singer and in very good condition. I bet it weighs more than you think it does! LOL!

For bug girl (and anyone else interested) the Needlebar web site is a great place to learn about older machines (all makes - not just Singer) and see images of the machines and cabinets. There is a forum for discussion also and lots of kindred spirits who love old sewing machines.

Here is a link that might be useful: Needlebar web site

Thanks for that link. I did not mention Hunter Green, what color is that? It's like a green-brown? I like clear colors, and bright colors. I just mentioned I had seen a cute green one. I am sort of bright yellow, pink, and orange person.

Ok, Bug-girl, to answer some questions:
1) The number you found isn't the serial number. The serial number is found on the underside and it's going to have a prefix of two letters, followed by a 6 or 7 digit number. Send that to me and I'll tell you the day the machine is commissioned.

2) The 185 that you found doesn't have zig-zag

3) Hunter green is a dark green. Think pine trees.

4) For a while, repainted Featherweights were selling for a lot more than original colors (I haven't been following them recently.) Featherweights aren't rare, and even less so now that the ones that most people would throw away due to major, serious paint issues are being rescued and repainted. I prefer to see the colored repaints as there is no attempt to fool anyone into thinking that they are getting a machine in original condition. So, the repaints are really popular for the seamstress who wants something different than what everyone else has.

5) You most likely won't find a modern plastic sewing machine case that will fit your Featherweight, however reproductions of the original style cases are being made and sold on ebay.

6) I'd recommend that you google "Featherweight Fanatics" and join the group if you want ALL the skinny on using your Featherweight. These are the folks that really know their stuff.

Annie

On the link to the Sewing Forum discussion, there was mention (by joansews4u) of a Hunter green FW sold on ebay for $500. I just think people should know what they are buying before they spend that much money. There is nothing wrong with red/green/blue FWs if that is what you want. But you should know that those colors are not original if what you want to buy is a FW in good working order and close to original as possible. A repainted machine should not fetch as much as a machine with the original finish.

There is tons of info on the internet about FW machines and the scams and horror stories that folks have encountered. People investing in vintage sewing machines should educate themselves before tossing away their hard earned money - or not, I guess.

I looked up Featherweight Fanatics, but I am not quite that fanatic, because they charge 15 per month. Maybe I found the wrong place? I could see maybe paying 10 dollars a year, but 15 dollars a month is a 180 and dollars a year.

I have to go out now, so I will look up the number this evening, but I did not see anything on the bottom that I can recall when I was looking for numbers.

Oh, I see. I think it would ok to repaint them only if the original finish was completed ruined.

I'm pretty sure that is $15 for a year's membership in the Featherweight Fanatics, after your first month's trial membership for free.

Oops--I didn't realize that FF had a membership fee. The yahoo group WeFixIt is another good group and they don't have any fees for membership.

Annie

45713 I don't know if that is the right one, it looks too small, oh wait here is one more AL92394,that must be right.

That this is not clear. It says free for one month and then 15 dollars, not does not say for a year or a month. If the free month if free, then 15 dollars, I assume it's 15 dollars a month. If it said, a one time payment for a life time membership, that would not be so bad, but I am not into machines for fixing them. I only am interested in them as means to an end. I got the oiling down now, and I got the belt changed.

AL- 900891 950890 221 (50000 lot of) January 17 1955 Wow, it's not very rare at all. My mother must have taken up sewing at an older age, then I thought. I was born in 1965, only ten years later, but she never used it when I was growing up.

I saw it in the photo section of Featherweight Fanatics. But, the photo is so small you can't see it enough to tell. I knew about the white and beige ones. I would like to see photos of the repaints as well. I like custom painted cars, but I still think it's wrong to repaint, if the finish is ok. Apparently my mother sewed so infrequently mine is like brand new looking.

Repainting is only done when the finish is shot--no that I'm aware of is out there repainting good machines. Isn't it cool to know the date it was commissioned? I'm glad that you've gotten it oiled and ready for use, I think you'll like sewing on it. They are nifty little machines, even if they need that pesky electricity! 8^) (I sew on treadles and handcranks.)

Annie

Oh, that is so neat. My grandmother and my Aunt were really into sewing. My grandmother did great sewing, and my Aunt did all different crafts like needlepoint, and I remember she had a spinning wheel. It was brown wooden, and I was very impressed. My mother was into knitting, so the sewing was left on the way size. She made beautiful sweaters even Fisherman's knits. Crafts run in the family. What I wish I could get into is dying fabrics for quilts, but the few times I experimented with fabric dyes. The colors were muddy, and I like clear colors. I have seen some really outstanding art quilts with dyed fabrics however online. But, it hard to get your oars into too many waters at once.

You sound like me. Knitting is my other hobby passion. Have you tried the Procion dyes? I'd love to get into dyeing, but I'm under a self-imposed "no more hobbies!" ban.

Annie

You sound like me. Knitting is my other hobby passion. Have you tried the Procion dyes? I'd love to get into dyeing, but I'm under a self-imposed "no more hobbies!" ban.

Annie

I can't remember what brand I used, but it was like in a package in which you added the reactive part which is white to the dye part, and you had to boil it. I had tried cold water dyes like rit that you can buy and I was unhappy, so I tried the more powerful kind of dyes. I was only dying a white cotton shirt red, but the color was sort of pink, but not very nice in the end. I am sure it takes a lot of time to perfect fabric dying.