Really need advice on staircase
redroze
13 years ago
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Comments (14)
whitdobe
13 years agoannzgw
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Help! Problem with entry hall staircase - need advice
Comments (34)What still puzzles me about this stair is that given a 9ft. ceiling height and 7 3/4"+ risers, the thickness of the second floor (ceiling to finish flooring) would be over 16" if there were 16 risers and it would be about 8" if there were 15 risers. For the smaller floor thickness the floor joists could not be larger than 2x8's and for the larger floor thickness the floor joists would be about 14" Since a typical floor thickness is about 12" I am greatly puzzled about your stair construction. Is there something unusual about the floor joists at the second floor? Is the ceiling height 9 ft. plus a tray or coffer? To accurately define the stair riser height you should give us the floor to floor height and the number of risers. To increase the distance from the front door to the stair by turning it, you must put one more riser at the lower run which would extend it farther into the lobby. If this doesn't make sense to you, you should ask your designer to draw the two conditions to scale before telling the builder to modify the stair. I could draw it if I knew all of the dimensions of the existing conditions but what you have posted doesn't seem to add up....See MoreNeed advice on how to finish moulding on stair
Comments (2)You can either cut the end straight or at an angle and return it to the wall or you can miter the end and return it down to the brown cap piece. The latter wold look better. Here's the closest picture I could find to give an idea of it. http://s901.photobucket.com/user/Rockerdog/media/Astro%20Van/Endcapfail.jpg.html...See MoreI really need some advice for my dining room!
Comments (8)It depends if it's an interior door, or the front door. If an interior door, if you wall it off, it looks like you might obstruct part of the door frame. I don't know if the other posters are talking about walling it off in a "box," or creating an entire fake wall across that wall, which which case you would need to either move the baseboards, or get new baseboards - and those are old baseboards and you may have to have them custom made - even though they are not fancy baseboards. As an alternative you could repair the holes in the floor and ceiling and paint the pipes the same color as the walls. A good drywaller should be able to repair the open ceiling corner. If you wall it off in a box shape, it could have the potential to look cheesy. In my previous house, it was an old house like yours and had the furnace pipe running up from the basement through a corner of the bathroom through the roof. I painted it the same color as the wall and it looked fine. May be difficult to get in the corners behind the pipes, but it's doable....See MoreStair Riser and Side Trim - Need Advice
Comments (11)Thanks for your comments and I'm sorry for the confusion in my original posting. I should have made clear that the 2nd picture above shows our staircase in the process of being remodeled. It is not the finished remodel. I'll upload some demo and "before" pictures below. I hope they'll help with some of the questions. Here is more background on this project. If anyone reads through this or looks at the photos below and still has structural concerns I would love to hear it along with any reasons for that. This is the last piece of a total townhouse remodel. The staircase has been difficult because of conflicting advice from subcontractors. As you can see in the photos below, the half walls were torn out and replaced with framing for the installation of spindles and handrails. The architect's plan is to replace the carpeting on the original steps and put false treads and risers on the new framing. Those are the black things you see in the pictures (the risers will actually be white but these are just mockups). Our carpenter did have structural concerns with the architect's plan and he backed out of finishing the project for that reason. We brought in a structural engineer. The SE said the new framing was solidly attached to the original treads. He didn't think we needed to put full-width treads under the carpeting for structural reasons. At the time I wasn't thinking about how the steps would look style wise. I was preoccupied with getting the spindles, newels and handrails I wanted. My husband wanted carpeting and I conceded. In hindsight I guess the new carpeting was put down prematurely. We're now finishing the project with a woodworker. Since we have the ok of a structural engineer and the architect confirmed the plan is to code I was hoping the issues about trim and the drywall were the last things to resolve. Thanks for your advice so far on these issues. Unfortunately we cannot start the staircase all over for style purposes only. We would start over for structural reasons if needed. Thanks in advance for wading through all this background....See MoreUser
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redrozeOriginal Author