You'll find that drying the home which has adapted to the humidity may present a few problems. Furniture and wooden floors will shrink some and may cause chairs to become loose and floors to gap. It's best to slowly drop the humidity and at constant levels. It's a good idea to keep the humidity at or near 45-55% for some time. Comfort zones are different as you dry the air. A home at 74 degrees with a humidity of 70% may feel muggy and warm, but at 45% feel very nice and cool. You may try a dehumidifier with the capacity for a room or two and see how that does first, but the house must be closed up and doing so may mean a warmer home. If it were me, I would try a window a/c combined with a dehumidifier and adjust the temperatures as needed. We are very humid here too and I seem to do well with 78 degrees with a humidity of 50% with the cieling fans operating. Reducing the amount of lights and appliances in the home will keep it cooler as well. Cieling fans will put out heat some, so they should run only when your in that room. Remember- an a/c must deal with removing the latent heat (humidity) before it will actually be able to cool the air in the home.

the biggest problem with teh low noise units is that they have SLOW fans, even on high speed they don't move much air. if you let it get hot in teh room before turning them on, they MAY not be able to cool it down. only thing you can do is try it an see. we have an OLD 5800BTU unit that cools circles around every newer 6-6200BTU unit we can find. the difference, the old unit moves 3x teh volume of air, thus cooler quicker and better. efficiency don't mean a thing IF they run forever and never cool it down. then you only waste electric. don't get me wrong, you want it to run long enough to remove humidity. but i am just not a fan of the newer models at all. our tower sites have fixed equipment that always use the same amount of electricity a month. the above mentioned 5800 btu unit kept teh small(6x8) building cool as we wanted, even with outdoor temps over 100. the 6000 and later the 6200 we installed in the same building never could cool if outdoor temps were above 80, and they ran continuous. the electric bill showed a 40% INCREASE during teh times they were installed compared to teh same months of use during the times teh 5800 was in. we actually spent 100.00 for a new fan and put the 5800 back in, it was cheaper to pay more to fix than to pay less to replace but have bigger energy bills. and for your reference, the bills vary by only $10.00-$15.00 over a 15 year span OTHER than the 6 months those new "efficient" models were in, and those months were as much as 80.00 more! so, as long as you don't have a high heat load and don't mind leaving them on even when you are gone for a while, go for it.

Never heard of doing that for a central air compressor. Freon, the coolant, doesn't freeze, and there is no water in the compressor. I wouldn't bother. But if you have a washing machine, you should put anti-freeze in there. You want a specific kind, I think for boats. Run a "load" with just water and pour the correct amount of AF in with the load. That will get the anti-freeze into the well of water that doesn't get expunged from the machine. Disconnect the pipes and power and drain the pipes into a bucket.

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