Three popular methods of support. (1) Diagonal brace from bottom of ac to exterior wall. Suggested angle between ac and wall 60* or greater. For attaching brace to wall,attach a horizonal 2x4 to brick with lead anchor screws. (2) Chains comeing from above ac to top of ac. Use turnbuckles on end of chains for fine tuning. (3) One or two boards running vertical from ground to bottom of ac.

Virtually all of the smaller air conditioners will call for a 15-amp circuit because 15-amp circuits are the smallest circuits usually feeding ordinary receptacles in residential wiring. There is a such thing as a 10-amp circuit breaker (or fuse), but they are very seldom used. That raises the question of whether the circuit in question is truly a 10-amp circuit or whether the building management simply has experience suggesting that AC cooling loads larger than 10 amps have caused problems in the past. I picked up a rough rule of thumb a few years ago to the effect that window AC units draw roughly 1 "cooling amp" for each 1,000 BTU. Thus, a 6,000 BTU unit equates to about 6 "cooling amps", an 8,000 BTU units draws about 8 "cooling amps" and so forth. There are many 6K and 8K units on the market. The problem is this: "Cooling amp" is a somewhat bogus unit of measure. It represents the purported 115V or 120V current needed to keep an AC running once it is started and doesn't address the starting surge as well as several real-life inefficiencies. When the compressor first kicks on, the actual draw is quite a lot larger--sometimes two or three times the cooling amp rating. More often than not, that's tolerated for an instant due to the time-delay of the breaker or fuse. Soooo....when all is said and done, it depends on what is meant by "no more than 10 amps". My guess is that a 6,000 unit probably won't "blow the fuse" (unless, of course, there are concurrent substantial loads on the circuit), but who knows? Sorry my answer can't be more definite.

Klem1, window units are disposable. It's not likely for this person to be able to fix it... They are really not designed to be taken apart and worked on. The interior of them typically consists of formed styrofoam along with a slew of parts made of plastic. The cost to fix 'what is likely to be' a crying compressor --- $$$. What? That's ridiculous. I can buy a new one for cheaper than that. Congratulations China / Mexico / S Korea / Japan.

Sophie, the OP didn't say why he wanted to install a room air conditioner, and I think it's a stretch to assume it's because his home HVAC system isn't doing its job. Not everyone has or wants central air conditioning. As it happens, for example, I have 2 rooms with air conditioners in my house. That's intentional. One gets used regularly, the other only a few times per year. This setup works for me. And if someone (say, a guest in my home) tried to tell me that I should upgrade my HVAC system because my room air conditioners didn't meet his standards, he probably wouldn't get invited back. For the record, I agree that a mini-split would do the OP well. One of my air conditioners is a mini-split, and I like it. But it was outrageously expensive. I bit the bullet because I needed an especially quiet system. I hope installers have come to their senses since I had mine installed, but at the time, the installation cost over $1000. I had other quotations in the $2000 range. From what I could tell, they wanted about the same fee as they charged for a central air conditioner. In many other places I know of where mini-splits are popular -- Asia, South America, the Middle East, even Puerto Rico -- getting one installed usually costs around $100-300. I don't know about the EU.