What's the code for plug under island overhang?
10 years ago
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- 10 years ago
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OK to vent range hood out wall under an overhang and by patio?
Comments (12)Thanks everyone. It's an open-air patio, not enclosed. The overhang does have vented soffit :( Also, I've never had a vent hood before. The smells of my cooking are not bad but they do linger, thus the hood. Boxer, what do you mean snake the tube? With a chimney style hood there can be no snaking until you get past the drywall. My problem is that there is a joist in the way. Actually, a ceiling joist, not a roof joist. We are trying to avoid cutting joists. Is there some way of snaking that I'm not aware of that will make a chimney style hood work? I know I can get an undercab hood or an insert and angle it within the cabinetry to avoid the hood. The chimney style would be better for the aesthetics of the plan and let more light into the adjoining room. I'd like to ask him to move the troublesome ceiling joist and reinforce to in order to fit a roof-vent chimney mount style, but that's where the roof slopes to its cramped little end and will be a &(&*^% to do.. I guess we'll see. He does like the chimney style as well, so I'll let him decide if he wants to deal with the joist or not....See Morecabinets under bar overhang in island
Comments (4)I only have a 9 inch overhang and only 5 feet across. I decided to go with a bookcase since it will face the living room and I love books. The Complete Monty Python and The Mad Magazine and the Complete Far Side... Maybe interspersed with pottery. I can reach down and pull out a book without opening a door....See MoreIsland Overhang and building code/contract HELP!!!
Comments (7)Buildinghunt - Your situation is pretty unique IMHO - because your contractor is CLEARLY in the WRONG!!!! What state do you live in? The reason I am asking, is that some states (Arizona, where I am is one state that will come down on your side of the case) will MAKE your contractor do the assembly THE RIGHT WAY after this goes to the Registrar's Hearing and you will win.... Here's what I am meaning in all of this: 1. Depending on the thickness of the granite you will use, there is only ONE RECOGNIZED AUTHORITY in the US that addresses overhang dimensions - and it is the Marble Institute of America's "Design Manual". 2. IF your stone is 2CM thick with a 5/8" thick plywood subtop, the total allowable UNSUPPORTED span for any overhang is ONLY 6 inches - anything MORE THAN 6" - R E Q U I R E S corbels or other SUPPORT of the assembly - PLWOOD ALONE IS NOT ENOUGH 3. IF your stone is 3CM thick, you will not be required to use a plywood subtop = the stone can be installed directly on the cabinets, and your maximum allowable UNSUPPORTED span is 10 inches. 4. this 21" deep overhang stuff - with no support is NOT going to work, and it WILL FAIL (ie; crack, break, snap... etc) I would almost be tempted to let your contractor install as proposed, then use the countertops in a routine fashion (not abusing the tops like dancing on them or walking around on them) and WHEN THEY BREAK - have him replace them correctly. Here in Arizona, all you'd have to do is wait till they fail, then contact the registrar, have somebody like me come out and do an inspection, write a report stating HOW THEY SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE CORRECTLY IN THE FIRST PLACE, then let your contractor DO IT OVER -on the second time - THE RIGHT WAY, and then enjoy your countertops. This can all be avoided - IF - your "contractor" would just "man-up" and do the work THE RIGHT WAY - THE FIRST TIME - kinda like "One Shot = One Kill" concept...... Bottom line - IMHO - you need more support - ie - more cabinetry to reduce the amount of unsupported span of countertops.... HTH kevin Here is a link that might be useful: AZ School of Rock - Proper Overhang Support Video...See More9 inch base pullout or door under counter overhang?
Comments (12)Cabinets under overhangs usually take a bit of effort to get to and you would probably only store things that are rarely used in that type of cabinet...but 9" deep is pretty shallow for those types of things. If I were in your place, I think I would go w/one of three things.. 9" cabinet w/door (use as tray or cutting board storage) 9" cabinet pullout...I think the pullout gives you better use of the space than a tray cabinet unless you need tray space. 9" filler pullout....this would be my preference...You get more usable width with this option than a regular 9" cabinet. I think you would only lose the width (~3/4") needed to put in a wall on the one side to attach the pullout to. You get more space b/c there is no cabinet...you utilize the wall of the cabinets on either side of the space to attach the pullouts. (As mentioned, in your case you will need to put in a "wall" on one side...I suggest a 3/4" finished panel...if that's not strong enough, perhaps 1"...maybe the experts here can let you know.) Filler pullouts come in 3", 6" & 9" sizes. Here is a link that might be useful: Rev-A-Shelf Base Filler Pullouts...See More- 10 years ago
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