I seem to remember that the lower powered ones are okayed for under counter but not the 240s. The heat thing that Chac_mool mentioned might really be it, but it seems weird in a world of ranges, below counter ovens and double ovens nearly at floor level. Makes me think that that was an urban myth or something--something that was said around but not really true. I know years ago someone here put one under the counter, had an issue, had the repair guy out, and wasn't dinged against the warranty for out of spec installation. I'm sure that's the individual repairman. Others have done the low installation and not reported back with problems or warnings. Okay. This is what it says in a manual about why they don't want the 240 in an island or peninsula: The oven must be securely installed in a cabinet that is firmly attached to the house structure. Weight on the oven door could cause the oven to tip and result in injury. Never allow anyone to climb, sit, stand or hang on the oven door. That makes more sense. A lot of people install really flimsy islands. I think the ones they allow to be installed under counter must be lighter, better balanced or something. I'm sure they generalize the prohibition to all under counter because the general public don't pay attention to details and rather than give exceptions they just make a blanket rule. So. If you put some framing in your island that will hold the Advantium with structural security, you can feel assured that it will be safe. Though I'm not sure that my wall cabinetry is any sounder than my island (great cabinetmaker). What the wall installation does have is a hard wired attachment to the circuit, with the plate in the above cabinet. Perhaps that acts as a failsafe that if the cabinet gives way from something put on the door, the oven will dangle from the conduit? Surely that's too weird! I personally think that anywhere that's safe for any kind of wall oven installation should be equally safe for an Advantium, which makes me think that the real problem is people buying microwave cabinets rather than oven cabinets for their island installations. I'd think you'd need a better structure for the big oven electrical line that you need anyway. Lots of speculation here. How much is the warranty worth to you? How much will it cost to change your plans as opposed to possibly paying for a service call if your warranty is void? Might be worth it to just do it.

I looked into installing a single wall oven under an induction cooktop (I ended up getting an induction slide-in range though). What was interesting was that most induction brands allowed it IF the wall oven was the same brand as the cooktop. This included Kitchenaid - don't know where you got your information, but the installation instructions do allow for it with certain ovens - it turns out it is the Kitchen Aid single ovens. Two brands did not allow for a single oven under the cooktop even with their own brands (well, it voided the warranty so the same thing): Bosch and Thermador. No problem with Jennair, Kitchenaid, GE, Electrolux, and Frigidaire. I think Whirlpool also didn't allow it, but I wasn't considering that brand. Don't worry about the venting. There is some venting in all ovens - whether built in wall ovens or ranges. The vents aren't any more hot for a wall oven than a regular range. The reason I chose a slide-in induction range had nothing to do with the height of the oven. The wall oven under the cooktop would have been about the same height as a range's oven. Rather, I really liked the Kitchenaid induction with its (albeit small) second baking drawer. I cook a lot and could see using this. Plus, the cost was much less for a slide-in than a separate cooktop and wall oven. Our house is being remodeled and we haven't even been able to move in yet - so I haven't used it. I hope I love it. It does look nice.

My UC lights are wired so they don't have switches on them. Because the UC light is so great I always turn them on when I'm going to be working in the kitchen. I stupidly put the switches for them on the wall space between the uppers and lowers so now when I turn on the lights in the kitchen I have to make 3 stops - one for the overheads and one each on each of the cabinet walls. I really wish I had put them by the main light switches.

Hi, I don't have drywall under mine, but have some pictures of several from model homes I took a few years ago. They don't seem to have anything except the top on them, but it appears that the top overhangs slightly. I think just a bit of small trim (even quarter-round) could be used if you need to cover a gap if I'm understanding you right. It seems like you might need to keep it smaller than your base molding to keep the proportions right, if you decide to use something. Here are the pictures I have if that will help. Gotta make sure you have all your stuff so you can get lots done while you have help! Hope you make lots of progress!