Some say their inductions make no noise. I even watched a video on one of our GW posters and heard the same noises as the wolf. (I think they had an elux or Thermidor) I must have good ears! I do want to mention that gas also is noisy - just a different noise. I have the wolf. It is pan dependent on the amount of noise with my cheapest tea pot making no noise and my Staub also very quiet. My all clad and other layered vessels are noisier including my DeMeyere (I think I have one of almost every brand) The noise is most noticeable when the pan is cold. With the fan running, it is hardly noticeable. Cooking is wonderful. I can cook on high heat, then simmer for hours. I love the surface appearance and easy to clean! If you are looking for burners that turn off automatically- my wolf does not have that feature- although if you take off a pan for awhile it will turn off as will all induction. I never timed it, but it is not instantaneous. I have time to pick up the pan and swirl thing around without shut down. I would buy the wolf again but would also consider the Miele or Thermidor - Thermidor has come out with zoneless- which is still very expensive and probably would wait a couple years until the price comes down. The regular Thermidor owners claim to have very quiet induction but I would want to hear it with my own ears. If you can get to a demo center that actually cooks with 240/50 amps- that would be best. Some appliance stores just have a facade using 110- so noise may not be real life Have fun cooking.

Below is an explanation i received from the Electrolux Director of Technical Services. (In all induction cookers the majority of the "audible noise" during heating is directly related to the construction of the cookware and the power level applied. Some factors that influence whether or not a piece of cookware is noisy or not ... 1) Encapsulated slugs in the base of the cookware. Most induction cookware manufactures encapsulate a ferromagnetic slug in the base of cookware. The benefits are they "will" work with induction, the heat is more evenly distributed within the cookware since these metals are higher density and distribute the heat evenly, and the cookware cost less to manufacture. In most cases the slug is "just encapsulated" and is not fixed (welded) inside the bottom of the pan. Because the slug can move within the encapsulation, the high frequency magnetic field will setup a mechanical vibration (audible noise). 2) Loose fitting handles on cookware is another cause of audible noise. 3) Pans with a non-uniform bottom that can vibrate on the glass surface causing audible noise, especially under higher power settings. The cookware with the lowest noise levels are constructed of solid cast iron and are enamel coated. There are several brands that represent this construction - Silit and Le Creuset although they more expensive. Peggy can probably recommend others. There are some low level noises such as a "tick" or "humming" can sometimes be detected. These noises are associated with power level control (rapid ON & OFF) and are present in ALL induction cooking electronics). " I can confirm that the pan used makes a big difference to the noise level probably more than the brand purchased.

"The power to that residence is single phase. 120 volts uses one pole, 240 volts uses 2 poles. I do agree with trying the opposite pole of the 240 volt service. Costs nothing to try. But since both poles of the 240 originate from one transformer winding, it is not highly likely to correct the problem. A more experienced observer could look to see if both residences are served by the same transformer. If not the same transformer, then the interference is more likely to be transmitted through the air. " Thank you for that little tutorial bus_driver,someone might find it helpful some day. Judging by how prolific you are in posting,sometimes multiple times in a single thread as you did in this one. So that people don't get the notion you are only counter-posting to other member's observations,please do something for us. Explain what your point is by saying " the power to that residence is single phase" AND "both poles of the 240 origionate from one transformer winding". It is this kind of advanced knowledge that alows even seasoned tradsmen to gain knowledge here on the GW discussions. Please don't think this is a who can squirt highest on the wall. To the contrary it is to advance knowledge or more acuratly in my case and a number of tradsmen who worked around me over the years, correct use in believeing inaccurate info. I will keep mine simple and to the point,please do the same so that it is easy to understand. Here is how I explain it to those just begaining to study residential wiring. Since house current is alternating current the actual direction that the electrons flow reverses direction 60 times per second (60 cycles). Put another way, the hot wire has a negative charge alternating with an equal positive charge, and the polarity of the hot wire reverses 60 times per second. Now a quick explanation of 240 / 220 volt house current; Appliances which use straight 240 current (such as electric water heaters,hvac or hot tubs) A black wire which is often known as a "hot" wire, which carries the current in to the fixture. Another "hot" wire which may be blue, red or white (if it is white the code actually requires it to painted or otherwise marked one of the other colors, but often it is not) which also carries current in to the fixture. A bare copper wire called the ground, the sole function of which is to enhance user safety. That's it, no neutral. Now, if you were paying attention, you are probably wondering "If there isn't a neutral wire then how is the circuit completed?" The answer is that when one hot wire is negative, the other is positive, so the two hot wires complete the circuit together because they are "out of phase". This is why 240 volt circuits connect to double pole breakers that are essentially two single pole breakers tied together. In the main panel, every other breaker is out of phase with the adjoining breakers. So, in essence 240 volt wiring is powered by 2 - 120 volt hot wires that are 180 degrees out of phase. After I understand all I "think" I know about the above,we will climb the transformer pole out back while you explain how a single winding supplies 240 volt. Thank you in advance,I'll set down and listen to you.

@Lake_Girl - Our soapstone is Barroca. As far as transport - it was cheaper to have M. Tex deliver than for us to rent a truck and drive the 2 hours to pick up the stone. Also there are specific ways that the stone should be moved (on an A-frame) and we wanted M. Tex to assume responsibility for any breakage during transport. We did not have any seams, but there were a few edges where we used the epoxy to join pieces (on the transition from the sink area to the 'radiator shelf'). The epoxy blends in really nice and is not too difficult to work with. We had M. Tex do the cuts-to-size (rectangular cuts), I suspect that getting that straight, flat edge for the seam might be difficult using hand-held tools. Think through the logistics of the weight and size of the stones you are getting. I bought sawhorses and made tables with 3/4" plywood for each section of countertop in the backyard for the final finishing (sink cut-outs, sanding edges, etc). Make sure you have plenty of extra scrap and practice each operation on the scrap until you feel comfortable with it before committing on the actual countertop sections. If you're close to M. Tex, its worth taking a drive out there to look through their 'recycled' stone - partial slabs. Good luck, hopefully some of this helps.