.Most likely not; even so, by now, the gas should have cleared.

That said...the nature of radon is that the levels fluctuate. Therefore, even if the level is way below 4.0 today...that does not mean that the level won't be above 4.0 in six months.

In addition one house can test high...and the house next door or across the street can test low....

Best bet is to live with the lowest level possible of radon since there is really no reason to do otherwise, as almost always radon mitigation systems can do an excellent job.

Below is a link to the NJDEP radon site..which is very informative...and coincides with the EPA recommendations.

I don't know what state you live in...but in NJ, once a house tests at 4.0 or more, the seller generally mitigates...since the result is now on official record...and therefore very hard not to disclose without risk of being charged with fraud...and, once disclosed, almost all buyers will ask for mitigation, so, its just more expeditious for the seller to get ahead of the situation.

Mitigation costs can vary, depending upon the age and structure of the home...

Also, once installed, the levels must be checked again after 72 hours of closed house conditions to make certain that the system is working properly.

Thereafter, check once a year to make sure the system continues to function properly.

Here is a link that might be useful: NJDEP Radon Program

Hi logic,

Yes I do live in NJ. The seller wants to test again since they believe the gas leak caused the radon level to rise above 4. They want to pay for the test.

I guess other parts of the world don't care enough about their residents in regards to radon levels...

The European Union recommends that action should be taken starting from concentrations of 400

Bq/m3 for old houses and 200 Bq/m3 for new ones. After publication of the North American and European Pooling Studies, Health Canada has proposed a new guideline that lowers their action level from 800 to 200 Bq/m3.[6] The United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) strongly recommends action for any house with a concentration higher than 148 Bq/m3 (given as 4 pCi/L), and encourages action starting at 74 Bq/m3 (given as 2 pCi/.

Europe---400bq/m3 old homes and 200bq/m3 new homes
Canada---200bq/m3(down from 800bq/m3)
US----148bq/m3

Radon gas does not run through pipes. LP or NG does. I don't see how the radon has anything to do with the gas leak.

josenj:"The seller wants to test again since they believe the gas leak caused the radon level to rise above 4. They want to pay for the test."

Well if the seller wants to pay for another test...no harm done...howeverÂ...why exactly do they want to retest?

If your test was conducted by a licensed radon technician, his /her findings are legally valid for a real estate transaction in NJ.

I'm assuming that the sellers seem to think that the gas that leaked into the air somehow affected the test and caused a higher reading.

As I said, I sincerely doubt that this could be the case, but then again, I am not a licensed radon tech. What does your licensed radon technician say about such a probability?

That said, I personally would require that a continuous monitor be utilized for the second test, as it is far less tamper proof than the often utilized charcoal canister.

Nothing is entirely tamper proofÂ...but just on the off chance that the sellers have any thoughts of tamperingÂsuch as putting the canister outside for the duration in order to effectuate a lower reading...Âthe continuous monitor would indicate any disconnection or disruption as it is run off of the electrical service and provides a continuous readout. It is a bit more costlyÂbut since the results are in contention, it would be well worth the cost. Also, I believe that there is another device that can be utilized, similar to the continous monitor...check with the radon tech for his opinion.

BTW, what does your attorney have to say?

Radon levels won't be affect by a gas leak. However, keeping the home shut up and dark, will increase the levels. My home is PA had to get the remediation system. I tested it after we moved in and had the basement doors open, the windows cracked, and blinds up and it was a lot lower.

Well I just got an update from my lawyer and according to him, the seller's believe because of the heavy rain storm from April 15th that hit the north east (I live in New Jersey) and the gas leak caused the reading to pass 4. My lawyer requested that the retest be done but from the same company I used and they have to pay for it. But I like logic's idea of using a continuous monitor. I have to bring that up to the lawyer.

cpowers21: "However, keeping the home shut up and dark, will increase the levels."

Radon testing protocol requires the house to be tested under closed house conditions. Anything less, and the test is considered invalid...

josenj: "...the seller's believe because of the heavy rain storm from April 15th that hit the north east (I live in New Jersey) and the gas leak caused the reading to pass 4."

Since my last post, I spoke with a licensed radon tech that I know. He said that gasÂ...whether LP or NG...should theoretically not affect the reading...but the real answer to that question would probably lie with the manufacturer of the testing device that was utilized.

Be that as it may, he also said that if gas was still present in the home 2 days after the leak was repaired, the sellers have a much bigger concern than radon...
...
Of course, differences in air pressure etc. affect the rate at which radon enters the home...so, while the air pressure after the Nor'easter may have caused radon to enter the home more readily...that would only mean that when other storms or even minor weather changes occur the same thing would and/or could happen...so that is hardly a reason for the seller to discount the results.

Please let us know how this turns out....and, BTW...according to NJDEP regs, the results of both tests should be averaged in order to obtain the most accurate result.

IMO, go for the continuous monitorÂeven if you have to pay the difference in costÂas it is far less money than mitigating.

Thanks logic... I will defiantly keep you guys posted along the way. I got a response from the home inspector and he says that there was no odor of gas the day of placing the canister and the day of picking up the canister. He is also going to call the lab that perform the analysis and ask this question. I have forwarded the home inspector's email off to my lawyer and your idea of having the continuous monitor be used. I will wait for the response.

yeah, the test does have to be done in a closed house. However, keeping the home like that for years will naturally build up the amount of Radon. The home should have good natural light and be allowed to be open during the spring and fall (whenever it's comfortable to have the windows open). I was just simply suggesting that if they never used the basement or allowed light or air in, the levels would be high.

cpowers is correct..I opened the windows daily for a week after i moved in, and then retested..The radon level dropped below 4.0 in that time frame..My guess is the previous owners NEVER had fresh air movement in the basement,thus the over 4.0 reading..i now monitor every 6 months or so, and all have come back less then the reading i got at my inspection, and i am not diligent about getting some fresh air in the basement as i could be

It doesnt really matter what the sellers believe is the reason for the 4.2 radon test. The fact is, its elevated. I wouldnt trust using the canister test with a seller who now knows the radon came back high. They might only credit you for the cost of the canister test, but its definitely worth doing the continuous monitor even if its at your expense. (They are supposed to be tamper resistant). If it were me, I would just opt for the radon mitigation system. (at the sellers expense)I wouldnt want to think about breathing radon everytime I was in the basement. 4.2 is not exceptionally high, but it is higher than what the EPA says is acceptable for this area. You can keep the windows open in the summer to get the levels down, but what about all winter long, especially when the ground is snow covered; then the levels tend to be even higher.

Our radon test came back at 5.7. We are having the mitigation done today. We're in northern Virginia and it's costing us 765 for the system and another 65 for a computer that monitors it. I'll know more this afternoon and post it. I can't imagine knowing my radon levels had tested high and not wanting to immediately mitigate it whether I were selling or not.

qdognj: "My guess is the previous owners NEVER had fresh air movement in the basement,thus the over 4.0 reading..i now monitor every 6 months or so.."

Perhaps...but our new construction, which was wide open every day in terms of doors and windows UNTIL the day before the radon the test, the level measured 9.0. Mitigation brought it down to less than 1.0...and continues to do so as we test once a year..in winter..under closed house conditions.

The same with all of the other new homes in our development except two...one of which is directly across the street from our house...which just goes to prove radon's unpredictable nature...

BTW, interestingly enough, opening the windows can sometimes actually cause a higher reading...

The following is an excerpt form the "Do's and Don'ts" of Radon Testing that was written for Realtors by NJDEP, as some were insisting at playing at being a radon technician...which is illegal in NJ unless one is licensed as such:

"DonÂt suggest that clients could open windows to vent radon. Radon tests require "closed house" conditions, meaning that all windows and doors that could let outside air enter the home should be kept closed during the test, except for normal exit and entry. If the test is less than four days in length, closed house conditions should be maintained an additional 12 hours prior to the start of the test. If closed house conditions are not maintained  and it is possible that the tester or home buyer will drive by to check -- the test will be invalid, and the Realtor could be legally liable for their advice. (In addition, it is a little-known fact that opening windows in some cases actually increases radon levels, rather than decreases them.)"

Here is a link that might be useful: NJDEP: Testing for Radon: The Dos and Donts

Well this is the latest.

The seller insisted that they want to use their people for a radon test. I told my lawyer that I don't want to use their people I want to use my own and have a continuous monitor be used.

Then my lawyer advised me that if the second test show levels below 4 then the buyers might say "We don't want to put in a mitigation system" and then I lose out. My lawyer suggested that we bypass the second test and have the seller issue me a credit of $500 (half of the average cost of putting a mitigation system in). What do you guys think in this situation?

i was in a very similar situation last summer..It came back 4.1,and i took 750 bucks, and now monitor the level every 6 months..It has fallen below the 4.1, into mid 3's...We don't have a finished basement, it is 2200 sf of unfinished..We have some fitness equipment and daughter plays there on occassion...I say take the $$$ and monitor it..Open the windows, get some air movement...If you will use the basement on a daily basis, i'd mitigate if levels maintain above 4.0....if you use it like we do,a few hours a week, i say don't unless levels increase

The basement is finished and it already has a French drain and a sump pump. Based on what I got in my research and talking to some radon techs, these can be a factor in high radon levels. Thanks for your input gdongnj....

The sellers position is interesting to say the leastÂbecause if they truly believed that weather and the gas leak were the cause for the high reading, why would it matter to them if you had the second test performed by a radon tech of your choice? Unless of course they have a "plan" to make certain the level test at below 4.0Â

That said, purchase contracts usually state that the buyer has the right to test using professionals whom they chooseÂÂnot the sellerÂs choiceÂso IÂm not quite sure what standing they have for their demand.

GrantedÂit does depend on how badly you want the houseÂand then again, also how badly they wish to sell.

If you walked from the deal, they would have to disclose the 4.2Âor risk being charged with consumer fraud otherwiseÂ...as there is now a paper trail, and the info is on file and has been reported to NJDEP....

....so IÂm not sure what their point is in this matterÂas the whole process would have to start all over again in a very soft buyers market.

Depending upon the age, type and structure of the home, $500 may not buy you all that much in the way of mitigation. IMO, I would have a licensed radon mitigation specialist (a different license than that of radon technician) give you an estimate on costÂbefore you agree.

Usually attorneyÂs shy away from the credit for mitigationÂas some homes are a challenge to mitigate. When this does happenÂÂwhich is not oftenÂit is usually an older homeÂ.and sometimesÂstandard methods donÂt workÂbut meanwhile the buyer is now the ownerÂso it becomes their problem.

The decision on what to do is yoursÂbut IMO, all this is well worth considering.

Last but not leastÂif you DO take the creditÂplease seriously consider using it to have the home mitigated ASAPÂas opposed to hoping the level remains below 4.0 between self-testing.

If not for the benefit of your own health and that of your familyÂfor the fact that chances are when it is your turn to sell, you will probably have to pay do so anyway. ThereforeÂwhy not reap the health benefits now?

Hi josenj...I was just curious as to how things worked out...please give us an update when you can...

josenj-
Just so you're clear on a couple of points:

1. A gas leak would have no way af affecting radon measurements because what's actually being measured is a radioactivity level, not a quantity of gas level. Someone who tells you that a gas leak in the house caused elevated radon levels is either ignorant of what radon is, or is being deceptive.
2. You don't want to do a radon test with the house aired out and windows open, because you want an idea of what the levels are when you and your family are living in it and exposed to the radon. Unless you live all year around with the doors and windows open 24/7, you should have a test of "normal" conditions.
3. Radon is like a lot of other environmental hazards, There is an EPA action level of 4.0 picoCuries/liter, but that doesn't mean you're safe at 3.9, or going to get lung cancer at 10.0. Almost all house have some radon, but, if I lived in one where I was close to the action level, I'd have it mitigated. Radon is one of the few environmental problems where it doesn't take a huge amount of money to make it a non-problem.
4. Reliable radon tests are sometimes done over a several week- or month-long period because levels can fluctuate so much, and a longer period averages things out to give a truer reading. Rather than bother with a re-test, I would try to get the seller to kick in the $500, then have a reliable test done after you're in the home. Then fix it if need be.

Here is a link that might be useful: EPA - Radon

Kud9zu,

Just to be clear.

1. The short term test has to be done under "closed house" conditions, not "normal" conditions.
2. Radon test are done either under short term conditions or long term conditions. The short term is usually less than 6 days; the maximum for a carbon device. The long term is a minimum of 90 days. With a long term test, the windows can open.