keithintx, These are good textbook photos that demonstrate closed shrinkage cracks. Your post is a good one for the general public and all of the comments here are good. First, it is important to know the facts. All cementitous products experience cracking and pitting. What you do not see is called microcracking or microporing and is oftentimes resealed in the process of curing (via hydration) with the depostion of calcium hydroxide. So, before we go any further, ALL CONCRETE IS CRACKED! ALL POOLS ARE CRACKED! ALL DECKS ARE CRACKED, ALL POOL INTERIORS ARE CRACKED! When the public can accept that fact things will make more sense. The perfomance of these cementitous products will depend on the level of expertise of those using these products to manage and/or reduce the likelihood of significant and/or structural cracks and defects that could lead to failure. Initially, the eggshell cracking is a normal representation of shrinkage cracking that is macroscopic and reactive. Most of these macroscopic cracks will reseal as you can see but some may reseal with the appearance of the resealed crack still showing and in your case the white calcium hydroxide shows up against the blue interior. It is impossible to know how deep these macroscopic closed shrinkage cracks are but some of them may only extend several mm into the substrate. The National Plasterers Council considers these types of cracks cosmetic and not indicative of a defect in the surface coating. Plaster coatings are very reactive and immediately start to cure upon application. High quality additives can be added to the plaster to slow down the cure rate and reduce the tendency of shrinkage cracking, but it still occurs. Without knowing the mix or the conditions at the time of application it's impossible to know if other factors accelerated the curing of your plaster and the early onset of pronounced shrinkage cracking. You should have have continuously filled the vessel to eliminate the chance of having a bowl ring that shows up when cementitious products are hydrated at different rates over a uniform surface. This is still considered cosmetic. If your builder or the plasterer is a member if the National Plasterers council (NPC), you can request an inspection of our pool interior and a suggestive remedy to see if they will recommend remedy by the builder or plasterer. However, they may conclude that there is no defect of the pool interior and it is performing as intended and that you matter is cosmetic. Two years have past, If you would have escalated this matter within the first 12 months you may have been in a better position for remedy by the builder or plasterer. What I can tell you is that most of these cracks probably do not exist through the full thickness of the substrate and may be able to be removed with a light acid wash or even light wet/dry sanding as suggested in another post. I would advise that you work with your PB at this stage and try to maintain a cordial relationship with them if possible and if they are reputable they will try to help remedy this to the extent that is reasonable for all parties. Make sure your water conditions are acceptable.

I'm a professional residential and commercial painting business owner. Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams both carry it as does home depot and lowes. The employees at either box stores have no idea its on the self. If you you look where the exterior paint is - the can says Elastomeric Masonry, Stucco and Brick Exterior Paint. I've used products from all three (Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams and Behr), take it from a professional and do yourself a favor - buy Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams. Remember there's a reason why these two companies' products cost more than Behr paint. You get what you pay for in quality, performance, coverage, and you have two major paint and coatings companies that specialize in only paints and coatings with great quality control. BTW they do not sell screwdrivers, wrenches, dishwashers, carpeting, tiles, plumbing, and so on. Point made.

Full disclosure -- my contractor was my neighbor for 10 years, at my previous home and took on my renovation, including looking at houses with me, after my husband died from brain cancer at age 60. So, before I purchased my house, he, and an engineer friend of us, looked over everything in my basement, foundation, attic, roof, etc. to make sure I wasn't buying a money pit. They didn't charge me for looking at houses I was considering. He also let me manage the crew, buy my own fixtures, use my cabinetmaker (who had built my kitchens in two new builds) so that he didn't have to charge me for as much of his time nor for markup on the fixtures and cabinets. He also had his guys do the repairs for the house I sold, when the buyers asked for a few things. I am very fortunate to have a neighbor like that --and, that's another reason why I didn't bother him until he showed up!

Too soon to know definitively but, after failures with paper and mesh tape, I'm trying something else. On drywall, I don't have plaster. What I've done is evacuate any crumbly material, stabilize the raw edges of drywall with Zinsser's Gardz, let dry and fill the crack with an elastic caulk like Big Stretch. Then I cut an oversized piece of non-woven interfacing (like what is used in sewing). Not the iron on version. (But that might work, too.) Spray the interfacing and the wall with Super 77. Let dry a bit and then apply over the crack in lieu of tape or mesh. After it dries, then proceed with a mud coat. I also used this when I relocated some recess lights. Cut circles about 1.5'' larger than the drywall patch, covering the entire drywall patch with the interfacing. (Durabond in the cracks if you don't a tight fitting patch in situations where you're not fighting movement like stress cracks at door openings.) One year and counting and all is good. Time will tell if it works over the long haul. (The interfacing is similar to Fibra-Fuse drywall tape. Not as heavy, thick. However, the interfacing in available in different weights--light, medium, heavy. I've been using mid-weight stuff. Plus factor is that you can cut as large a patch as you need. Available in the fabric dept or at Jo-Ann's. Either in a precut package or by the yard off the bolt.)