Paulah, Sorry for the confusion. When I sent my info I didn't think of qulterscache and posted the size I had used before. The pattern on quilters cache is fine and probably easier to uses. As to color you have it right, dr. greens & browns on one side and lighter shades of the same on the other side. What ever you do will be beautiful I know. Thank you for asking. Jayne

There is no bobbin to this little machine. It makes a chain stitch. In order to do this there is a lever underneath the catches the thread. The way it is designed the lever hits the needle and eventually over time the needle form a permanent bend. This will prevent it from catching the thread. What you need to do at this point is to replace the needle. The 24x3 is no longer manufactured. You can order a 24 x1 which is the replacement the size 11 works best. Remember that the flat part of the substitute is on the opposite side from the original 24 x3.

I think I'm going to go with "B". The curtains will be 103" in length and I don't want to see a regular machine stitch along the edge and I don't think I can deal with blind heming by hand 103" (x 4). I will do blind hem stitch for the bottom hem. I have a blind hem foot for my Bernina, but I've never used it before. Back when I was in high school we had an industrial blind hem machine and it was amazing.

Annegreit, Sorry to hear the older machine is frustrating for you. I have a few older machines and I'm usually good at troubleshooting problems and giving clear directions (as I'm sure the people here are). Why not give me (us) some specifics and we can help you resolve the difficulty with the older machine. By the way, I rarely need a manual when I work on older sewing machines. As Jo-Ann said, they mostly thread in similar ways. There are a few variations. Just a few questions: 1. Please, if you know the name and model, or even anything written on the machine, that will be helpful. This is the most helpful, even if it just says Deluxe zig-zag. 2. Is that older machine one of those heavy (35 to 40 pound) all metal electric sewing machines? 3. Can you please snap a few photos of your machine? Front view, back view, and also try to get a close-up shot of the front left tension and threading parts, like this: 4. Now, from what you said about not being able to get the top thread to "meet" the bottom thread, I am giving Dolly (above note) thumbs up on knowing what you're having problems with. Does her comment help you figure it out. If not, hang in there. Did you get the top part (see photo) of threading figured out? Yes? And is your difficulty in getting the bobbin thread (bottom thread) to come up? You can get there thread through the needle's eye, correct? If so, as Dolly said, with the presser foot raised, gently pull the top thread tail beyond the needle a few inches. Don't strain the thread (you don't want to break it), but you can turn the balance wheel (on the right side of the machine) towards you just a bit by hand so that the upper thread is easier to advance by hand. Once you have a few inches of the top thread pulled out beyond the needle (and, you are sure that you have the bobbin in its correct position and the bobbin thread has been passed through the narrow slot in the bobbin case* (*if your machine has a bobbin case and is not a machine with a "drop in" bobbin), and then the bobbin thread usually goes through another little notch in the bobbin case. pull out about 7" of thread before securing the bobbin case into the machine. Usually, you can hear a little click -- you may need to apply a bit of pressure to the center of the bobbin, to sear it. OR, SOMETIMES, as in the case of many all metal Kenmore portables, there are two arms that rotate up on either side of the bobbin case area, and lock into place, over a couple of nubs, to keep the bobbin case in place. Annother thing is to be sure that the little metal "finger" on the bobbin case has fit nicely into the notch (above) in the sewing machine's needle plate. You probably know this. Ask if you need pics or better explanation. So, following Dolly's directions, use your right hand to turn the balance wheel to slowly lower the threaded needle down beyond the needle plate. As you continue to turn the wheel forward, towards you, part of an out of view cam will form a loop and catch the thread from the bobbin. (It might help to you a contrasting color of bobbin and top threads.) once you see your bobbin thread emerge, you are almost "home." What most people do at this point is, with the presser foot raised by way of lever at back of machine, use a narrow or thin straightened paper clip or the dull side of a scissor blade, to gently sweep under the presser foot and out towards you, thus bringing the two threads out and the looped bobbin thread. So now, when you just gently pull on that bobbin thread loop, you'll see the end of the bobbin thread. Before beginning to sew, take both the upper and lower thread ends (about 5 to 6 inches to start) and pass the under the presser foot and towards the back left of your machine, out of the way. I suggest you set your machine to sew a straight stitch at about 8 to 10 stitches per inch. Place your fabric under the presser foot, lower the foot with the lever, then turn the hand wheel so that the needle goes down into your medium to lightweight fabric. Let go of the balance wheel, relax, and apply power (foot pressure) to the foot controller ("pedal"). Fun? Note, when you go to remove your sewn fabric, be careful not to pull and strain. Move the fabric out the back left and cut the threads being sure to leave a few extra inches (tails) so that you the threads don't eascpe and come out of the needle or down through the needle plate. (There is a handy trick sewist S use to save thread -- begin and end your sewing with a scrap pice of fabric. (It eventually begins to resemble a "spider"!) Keep at it, it may be confusing a first, but don't let it frustrate you. As as to the newer, plastic Singer machines. You might like them. I would not because they are very lightweight and limited. I don't think they would give very precise stitching (maybe), don't have much space under the arm for projects/fabric, and just don't look that durable to me. Are you in Southern New England by any chance? I'd be happy to help you find a machine that matched your needs and get you over some beginners' bumps. So, Annegreit, write back and tell us the make or send photo of your older type machine. So many folks here enjoy helping one another. Enjoy your weekend, and don't overdo, switch tasks if you find yourself growing impatient. Ask back for help.