Sewing Machine Question
Comments (14)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
What would you do?
Comments (7)I have no advice on how to seal it, but my favorite way to mount a feeder or birdhouse is this: Buy a 6' or longer (I forget what lengths they come in) galvanized threaded pipe and a galvanized floor phlange. You'll also need a pipe cap to fit the end of the threaded pipe. Somehow, (LOL!) mount the feeder on a board - construction adhesive?? Anyway, once you have it on a board, turn upside down and screw the floor phlange to the bottom of the board (or do so before gluing feeder on) Place the cap on one end of the pipe and put the other end to the ground and pound into the ground with a small sledge hammer or pipe driver. The pipe cap prevents the threads from being damaged. When pipe feels secure and is at desired depth, remove pipe cap and store for future use, then simply screw the threaded portion of the pipe into the phlange screwed into the bottom of the feeder. This makes the feeder/birdhouse easy to remove for cleaning and also deters critters from climbing up the pole as it is slippery unlike a wooden post. I also like this method because it makes a small hole in the ground compared to setting a 4" post and can be pulled up later and moved around if desired. This is really simple with a wooden birdhouse or feeder because the phlange can be screwed directly onto the bottom. I don't have pictures of the individual parts, but here is a photo of one mounted, which should give you an idea. If you still aren't sure what you're looking for, google "galvanized floor phlange", etc. and you'll see pictures. Lowes or any of those kind of stores have the supplies. Hope this helps. This is the way we mount all our feeders/birdhouses. ~Arlene...See MoreChenile/Shenile? fabric sofa
Comments (5)just vacuum the cushions to keep them free of debris and have them professionally cleaned when you feel the need. my chenille sofa is a dark burgundy color and coming up on 10 years old. the fabric is fine but i'm bored with it. it will be reupholstered in the spring; it's seen tougher times in recent years since our two kids came along, though. there are of course more durable fabrics but it's safe to say your sofas are covered in upholstery weight chenille so you can expect it to hold up at least until you get tired of looking at it....See MoreDysfunctional sewing machine question
Comments (15)I owned a Singer from the early 1970s that sat for some years. When I took it out to use, the feed dogs had completely deteriorated and didn't move the fabric. They were made from some black rubbery material and had to be replaced with new metal ones. Some machines have a lever that lowers the feed dogs so machine embroidery can be done without interference from them. It's usually in the same compartment where the bobbin case is. Put your finger under the presser foot (Remove the needle) and see if the pressure is good on it while slowly running the machine. This should tell you if it's a pressure problem or a feed dog problem. Since the machine sat idle for so long, the mechanism that lowers the presser foot may be stuck. The lever may work, but the inside mechanism could be stuck and cause a lack of pressure under the foot. If that's the case, you can usually unstick it manually. Once the stuck part is broken loose, it should work. Remove the pressure plate and make sure there's not a ball of thread or dirt caught between the feed dogs and the plate. Also, turn the plate over and check the bottom of it. Machine oil and lint can sometimes stick to things. That could distort the plate and cause the feed dogs not to reach the fabric. Someone else had a good suggestion to check the bar that sticks out of the top of the machine. It looks like a bolt with or without threads and controls the pressure on the presser foot. If it's sticking up, push it back in. If it causes too much pressure, let it back out till the foot pressure is correct. Once in awhile, when sewing is started, the beginning thread gets caught on something and impedes the movement of the fabric. If there's a burr or something else the thread is catching in, it can usually be sanded or filed off. Linda...See MoreNew Home sewing machine question
Comments (8)I received a New Home sewing machine (2022)for free a few years ago. It hadn't been used in over 20 years and had no manual. I bought my manual at that site above. I would never have figured out the machine without the manual and I still use regularly. For example, the bobbin is loaded backwards from every other machine my mother or I have ever used. The other thing I had to do to get the machine into working order was have it overhauled at a sewing machine shop. This service did cost about $50 but my machine works perfectly now and I didn't have to spend $200-300 on a new machine. On my New Home (which looks like a very different model), I have to switch the stitch selector to zigzag AND choose the width of my zigzags. There are 3 things to select for every stitch. The type of stitch (zigzag), the width, and the length. On my machine the width and length are in the same place, the inside and outside of a knob. The needle physically moves from left to right when I turn the width knob. I hope this helps. Enjoy your machine....See More
8 years agoAnnegreit,
Sorry to hear the older machine is frustrating for you. I have a few older machines and I'm usually good at troubleshooting problems and giving clear directions (as I'm sure the people here are).
Why not give me (us) some specifics and we can help you resolve the difficulty with the older machine. By the way, I rarely need a manual when I work on older sewing machines. As Jo-Ann said, they mostly thread in similar ways. There are a few variations.
Just a few questions:
1. Please, if you know the name and model, or even anything written on the machine, that will be helpful. This is the most helpful, even if it just says Deluxe zig-zag.
2. Is that older machine one of those heavy (35 to 40 pound) all metal electric sewing machines?
3. Can you please snap a few photos of your machine? Front view, back view, and also try to get a close-up shot of the front left tension and threading parts, like this:
4. Now, from what you said about not being able to get the top thread to "meet" the bottom thread, I am giving Dolly (above note) thumbs up on knowing what you're having problems with. Does her comment help you figure it out. If not, hang in there. Did you get the top part (see photo) of threading figured out? Yes? And is your difficulty in getting the bobbin thread (bottom thread) to come up? You can get there thread through the needle's eye, correct? If so, as Dolly said, with the presser foot raised, gently pull the top thread tail beyond the needle a few inches. Don't strain the thread (you don't want to break it), but you can turn the balance wheel (on the right side of the machine) towards you just a bit by hand so that the upper thread is easier to advance by hand.
Once you have a few inches of the top thread pulled out beyond the needle (and, you are sure that you have the bobbin in its correct position and the bobbin thread has been passed through the narrow slot in the bobbin case* (*if your machine has a bobbin case and is not a machine with a "drop in" bobbin), and then the bobbin thread usually goes through another little notch in the bobbin case. pull out about 7" of thread before securing the bobbin case into the machine. Usually, you can hear a little click -- you may need to apply a bit of pressure to the center of the bobbin, to sear it. OR, SOMETIMES, as in the case of many all metal Kenmore portables, there are two arms that rotate up on either side of the bobbin case area, and lock into place, over a couple of nubs, to keep the bobbin case in place.
Annother thing is to be sure that the little metal "finger" on the bobbin case has fit nicely into the notch (above) in the sewing machine's needle plate. You probably know this. Ask if you need pics or better explanation.
So, following Dolly's directions, use your right hand to turn the balance wheel to slowly lower the threaded needle down beyond the needle plate. As you continue to turn the wheel forward, towards you, part of an out of view cam will form a loop and catch the thread from the bobbin. (It might help to you a contrasting color of bobbin and top threads.) once you see your bobbin thread emerge, you are almost "home." What most people do at this point is, with the presser foot raised by way of lever at back of machine, use a narrow or thin straightened paper clip or the dull side of a scissor blade, to gently sweep under the presser foot and out towards you, thus bringing the two threads out and the looped bobbin thread. So now, when you just gently pull on that bobbin thread loop, you'll see the end of the bobbin thread.
Before beginning to sew, take both the upper and lower thread ends (about 5 to 6 inches to start) and pass the under the presser foot and towards the back left of your machine, out of the way.
I suggest you set your machine to sew a straight stitch at about 8 to 10 stitches per inch.Place your fabric under the presser foot, lower the foot with the lever, then turn the hand wheel so that the needle goes down into your medium to lightweight fabric. Let go of the balance wheel, relax, and apply power (foot pressure) to the foot controller ("pedal"). Fun?
Note, when you go to remove your sewn fabric, be careful not to pull and strain. Move the fabric out the back left and cut the threads being sure to leave a few extra inches (tails) so that you the threads don't eascpe and come out of the needle or down through the needle plate. (There is a handy trick sewist S use to save thread -- begin and end your sewing with a scrap pice of fabric. (It eventually begins to resemble a "spider"!)
Keep at it, it may be confusing a first, but don't let it frustrate you.
As as to the newer, plastic Singer machines. You might like them. I would not because they are very lightweight and limited. I don't think they would give very precise stitching (maybe), don't have much space under the arm for projects/fabric, and just don't look that durable to me.
Are you in Southern New England by any chance? I'd be happy to help you find a machine that matched your needs and get you over some beginners' bumps.
So, Annegreit, write back and tell us the make or send photo of your older type machine. So many folks here enjoy helping one another. Enjoy your weekend, and don't overdo, switch tasks if you find yourself growing impatient. Ask back for help.Annegriet thanked petalique- 8 years ago
jemdandy