I have never tried to not backroll wall paint in my life, so I can't really be sure how it would look, but my first guess is that it will look flashy. I don't really spot prime anything. It is either full prime or no prime. Since paints are self priming these days, using the actual paint to spot prime is better than using an actual primer. If you use a real primer to spot paint areas, then you run the risk of those spot primed areas flashing through. Usually, two coats of a high quality paint is good for walls. A primer plus two coats is the best though, but in my experience most normal people do not get the best bang for their buck by paying extra for that primer coat.

Hi - I've been spending most of the last few years on the remodeling forum - this is my first time here. I also posted this in the paint forum. I have a big porch. It was poured by the previous owners of the house in 1964. It was, I think, dyed at the time of pouring. We had to pull up astroturf & rent a giant buffer/stripper to get all of the surface goo off. We cleaned, stripped, cleaned, TSP'd, & scored it. We searched for a sealer that was not high gloss (hard to find) and came up with Coronado Final Finish Waterproofing Sealer Clear 21-10. It contains Xylene. We applied with a roller per the instructions & within their temp requirements, no direct sun, etc. The problem is that it is not completely dry in several spots. We tried to make sure we coated it with a thin, even coat. I'm guessing that there were probably some slight dips that collected more. Question is: will this ever dry or will it remain tacky? It has not been a full 24 hours yet, but some areas are completely dry & have a nice low sheen finish exactly what we wanted. It now looks like we'll have to put a put a 2nd coat on to even out some roller marks where the stuff is not drying. Normally you have to 2nd coat within 8 hours. If you miss that window, we were told by the place we bought it we'll need to wait 14 days, lightly sand & then re-coat because it is solvent thinned & each coat will solvent bond into the previous coat. I will say it's a beautiful finish where it dried, so we're extremely happy with the product. Just need to figure out how to solve this issue before the next coat. Anyone ever worked with this type of product?

I bought a couple 5 gallon buckets of the bonds one time, here are my experiences with it: In 2006 I applied Bonds One Time to my treated 8 foot long 4x4's (treated pine i think its called from lowes) and they have shown no signs of weather wear or loss of the stuff they were treated with. To apply i simply let the wood dry for a few weeks in the sun and applied the one time liberally with a paintbrush. I went over each one twice to make sure it was coated thoroughly. I allowed the One time to dry for several days, turning the wood daily to make the sun hit the different sides. I then coated the bottom 3 1/2 feet of each 4x4 with fiberglass resin that takes a full day to cure. After the resin was cured i used my tractor to dig the 3' deep fencepost holes and filled the hole with 100 lbs concrete along with the 4x4. More recently, in 2009 i built a freestanding roof over my mobile home, used 4x4x18' treated pine for the 'legs' of the roof, buried those 3' deep with cement. They were treated in the same manner as the fenceposts, Bonds One Time on the whole thing, then when that dried fiberglass resin on the bottom 3 1/2 feet. One of those 4x4s ended up warping (it bent several feet over) and had to be replaced, i did not have time to treat that 4x4 the same way as the others, since the contractors couldn't stop working for 2 days while i prepared the new 4x4. That 4x4 is looking weathered, whereas the ones treated with the Bonds One Time look like new wood. Boarded up some windows on an old RV I use for storage with some kind of particle board stuff, treated it with Bonds, let it dry, installed them. Years later the particle board stuff i cut the pieces from that was just sitting out in the weather is turned to dust, whereas the boards i treated with the Bonds look the same as the day i installed them. I treated a set of steps with the bonds and they look great. I highly recommend Bonds One Time for any outdoor wood. I would like to say, make sure your wood is dry, not treated with any other product (exception is the treated wood you get from lowes, just let it dry in the sun for a few weeks before applying the Bonds for best results). For best results, apply in the hottest dryest weather you can do it in, since the hotter it is the better it absorbs into the wood. i find that it takes at least couple or more days to properly cure this stuff, but once it is cured you are good to go. Final note: I have seen many "professionals" dogging this product on the internet, and my theory on this is that it is their job to build stuff and apply sealant/paint/etc to their finished product, then to come back in a couple years and charge you to strip and reapply it, thus, a product that works as well as Bonds One Time and lasts as long as it does, cuts into their pocketbook big time by not allowing them to charge you every 2 years to strip and reapply sealant/paint/whatever. My personal experience has shown that this stuff works, and how!

JV, you could probably do it yourself, however DH is in the biz and we get our share of diy'ers whose job we have to fix. Couple tips if you want to attempt it. 1. buy a good sealer at a concrete supply store, not a HD or LOWES.The sealer we use most often costs $400 for 5 gallons, that does about 1000 sq ft. He always does 2 coats, so we get 500sf out of 5 gallons. It is highly flammable, need a mask for sure 2. You will need help, one guy front rolls and one backrolls right behind him. If it goes on too thickly it will turn white. Dont aggitate it at all or the bubbles will never come out, it dries too fast, even at 80 degrees. Best to have a third guy behind with a good drypaint brush to brush up any extra sealer as well 3. Buy the best rollers and lots of them at the concrete store as well. Switch the back roller to the front and use a dry backroll about every 50 sf. Also you refer to release, that term in our neck of the desert refers to a sprayed on chemical applied to the stamp mats so the concrete doesn't stick when the mats are removed. If you want to add color to your concrete, you will need a stain. I have never seen a colored sealer of any quality. I've personally been to 3 "authorized installer" classes with DH and the guys, gets me out of the office and the food is free : ) There are a lot of things that can go wrong without easy fixes. Take a look at Elite Crete and Super Crete websites, they offer lots of info on both. Then get some bids and decide if you want to attempt it yourself. Hope this helps. Barb Also a good sealer will last 5 years or more depending on weather conditions and traffic. A cheap sealer not applied well won't last a year. If you don't have a good pressure washer, dont forget to figure that in your diy bid as well.