Hi just wanted to update you NYC dwellers on my experience with Plessers in LI. I ordered an undercounter refridgerator and a DW on 11/29. I cancelled the delivery once because I wasn't ready to receive and rescheduled for Dec 27. On Dec.23 I had to leave the country (2 months)because of a death in the family. When I returned I rescheduled for Mar 1. Plessers delivery called the night before the delivery to tell me a time frame of 6-7am(never had anyone do that before, usually it's "sometime between 8-5")and called that morning to tell me a more exact time 7:15am. They were on time ! I paid for gold delivery since I'm in a walkup(2nd fl)and curbside wouldn't work. I found all of the customer service staff(Patrick, Anthony, Jessica) helpful and pleasant to deal with. Also they provide their own 10year part warranty. I'm not sure how it works with other dealers but I was very happy that I was not penalized for delaying my delivery.

Offering honest feedback to "HU-242728640". "Doors do not line up with drawers. Every door had to be adjusted." >> Not uncommon with many mfg's. Transportation will cause doors/drawers to need adjustment. An installer "to do". "Trim pieces were missing and our retailer told us trim only comes with "kitchen" cabinets, but not with "bathroom" cabinets." >> Even with kitchens (pick ANY brand), you don't get trim. It's a line item. The dealer selling you the cabinetry specifies, budgets, and orders any and all trim. "Three others that were also made incorrectly were not replaced." >> Sounds like the dealer didn't order something correctly OR didn't (doesn't) know the product they sell, whereby "over selling it". "We are adding felt stickers to many areas where one door bumps into another or into the wall. Drawers on one side cannot open without hitting drawer handles on opposite walls." >> 100% a designer error. I sold Shiloh years ago. They'll NOT proof your order. Order a cabinet too big... that's on the dealer. Even if the (submitted) plan says 30" wide, they'll make a 36" IF you order 36". "Poorly designed, poor construction, real wood, but so is balsa wood. These cabinets will not last a lifetime and will not hold all of our kitchen items. Several shelves are unusable because of false drawer fronts added where doors should have been." >> Again, I was a Shiloh dealer... and yes... they have their issues. But I cannot throw them under the bus for issues that could've been, should've been, addressed by the dealer/designer. Most of your complaints should be directed to them. Often the problem begins with the designer/dealer/retailer. They fail to educate the homeowner/buyer as to what they're actually getting. If you're told Shiloh is high-end custom... it's not, they're lying. If there are design flaws, that's the designers fault . If the cabinet is flawed, that's on Shiloh. I used to show homeowners the difference between (then) Shiloh and true custom. There is a contrast in quality and (should be) price. All the best in remedying your issues. Jerry

Hello all: I've searched this forum and read the great advice here. I have to make a decision quickly (by next week-long story). I'll try to be as specific as possible. Live in a pre-war high rise (11th fl) in NYC. I have 9 double hung windows. Frames are ok, replacing the original decaying wooden sashes with aluminum - must use aluminum because of type of bldg and size of window. It's a landmark so windows must be black on outside - I want white interior. Many installers in my area use one of two local companies. Crystal Window is the one most have suggested-a manufacturer in Flushing NY-and they can make the two-tone that I want. (A while ago I got quotes from a few very high end installers who suggested some other specialty brands to the tune of 20Kish, which seems much too high). I've gotten one quote ($8,000) - awaiting the second. The first guy suggested the Crystal 2000A (specs below)-thermal break heavy residential aluminum. When the second came to measure, he saw the flyer for the 2000A on my table and said those are not heavy enough for the size of my windows...and recommended a new Crystal 5000 model. My windows range from 35 1/2" x 84" (largest) to 22 1/2 x 84. Most are 33 1/2 x 84. I asked the first guy if I needed the heavy commercial 5000 that guy #2 suggested and he said the 2000A would be strong enough (spec says max size for this model:56"x99") He said the 5000 is very good and has nice features, but about $200-300 more per window. ouch. I'm still awaiting bid from co #2. (Both have track record, good reviews - I know the installation is key, so I found companies that have replaced windows in blds like mine.) Who to believe? I'm not happy to spend more, but I don't want something not strong enough... Guy #1-company has great testimonials. Guy #2-owner of family biz 30+ yrs with solid rep. He seems to know the terrain. I'm in a coop bldg-not sure how long I'll stay. What does equal site line mean and does that make a big difference? What is a continuous, full anti-drift clip lock - the co #1 guy said something about the way the bar on the bottom of the sash lifts is different in the 5000, I asked him to clarify, but still don't really understand. He also said the aluminum is thicker, of course, on the 5000 series. For my situation, do I need the E coating? I have steam heat so I don't have a problem with cold in the winter. The 5000 model indicates "architectural" - what does that mean in terms of difference in features? I want something reliable, but I don't need to over do. Crystal seems to have a good customer service record. Was listed in top 50 manufacturers in a window trade magazine recently. I would be most grateful for some guidance on which of these two models to get. Would love insight on just what differs between these two models because I can't decifer - I added the specs of the two window models in question below. Crystal brochure says: Aluminmun 2000 series: thermal break heavy residential (although another spec section of the site indicates applications: Normal duty thermal break) -(max width 56" - height 99") * frame Depth = 3-1/4" * Air. 24 Water-7.52 Uniform Load- 74.25 Wall thickness (frame/sill) 062/.078 * AAAA RATING HC-50/60 * Insulated Glass Unit Depth = 7/8"~ for optimum insulation & sound reduction. * PPG "Intercept" Insulated Glass Spacer ~ the "warm-edge" technology of choice. * Tilt Sashes ~ for safe, easy cleaning of both top and bottom sashes. * Sloped Sill * Anti-Drift Head Clip Lock ~ automatically secures the top sash in the closed position for safety, security, and a weathertight seal. 5000 series - thermal break heavy Commercial/Architectural (the specs sections application says: normal/heavy duty commercial) The Improved Crystal Series 5000, is a HC rated aluminum double-hung window with a 3-" jamb depth. Improved features, such as straight and narrow jamb, and continuous anti-bow pin is a proven performer for many years to come. Features (max width 56 - height 99) * Frame Depth = 3-1/4" * AAMA H-HC45 * Air. 24 Water-7.52 Uniform Load- 74.25 Wall thickness (frame/sill) 062/.078 * Insulated Glass Unit Depth = 1"~ for greater insulation & sound reduction. * PPG "Intercept" Insulated Glass Spacer ~ the "warm-edge" technology of choice. * Heavy-Duty Construction ~ sill frame is .093" thick. * Continuous Anti-bow pin * Straight Jamb Provides Equal Sightline * Continuous Top & Bottom Anti-Drift Clip Locks * Sloped Sill * Tilt Sashes ~ for safe, easy cleaning. * Double Internal Metal Tilt Latches * Full Width Anti-Drift Clip Locks On Both Sashes ~ weathertight sashes closure for safety, security * The stile rails are designed to have a straight daylight elevation view. Many many thanks. Maddy

I'm so sorry Beachem that I missed this last Fall. Here are my answers anyway: The first KD couldn't tell me if Shiloh can do deeper drawers and shelves if I increase the depths of my uppers to 15" and my lowers to 27" or 30". Are the drawers 21" and go no deeper? If they can be extended, how much would the cost be? Is it very expensive? They can do increase depths on wall cabinets and bases. But I don't believe the drawers will get any longer. A less expensive option is to order standard and 'pull' it away from the wall. If needed, have the cabinets on the exposed ends modified to have an 'extend side panel back' modification. Bases come with half shelves. To upgrade to full depth shelves, add approx. $50-60 per cabinet. Also remember you must upgrade to 'butt doors'...that adds the same amount per cabinet. What is the cost of increasing the depths of the cabinets? Any modification to a cabinet, that is not listed in their modifications section in the spec book, is subject to a 30% upcharge. For instance, any dimensional change (WDH) will have a 30% charge. They have few standard mods, so if you have a lot of custom pieces or mods in any way, it will make more sense to consider another cabinet line. On the bright side, if you have ONE cabinet with lots of mods, they only charge you a onetime 30% upcharge for it being custom. They do not charge 30% for each mod for one cabinet. Is there an upcharge for frameless full overlay? I haven't priced much in their frameless line, so I can't tell you about that. Does Shiloh have toe kick drawers? If so, what is the upcharge? This is not in their spec book...but Shiloh will build just about anything for you. You would need to have your dealer submit a quote for this...but likely could be 30%. However, many people will buy their own guides and drawer boxes and have their installer modify toe areas on site. I figure the 2nd KD/dealer should be able to tell me what the upcharge is for cherry and paint. Paint is 10% extra. Custom paint is 20%. Free glazing and distressing techniques. However, their Olde Worlde series is 40% upcharge. Weathered is 30% and Vintage is 15%. They also have a cool 'brush marks' technique for paint that adds 10%. Maple and Poplar are no upcharge. Alder and cherry is 5%. Hickory is a deduction of 4%; Red Oak is a deduction of 12%; Email CommentBookmark