My goodness, Sherry, I'm having trouble understanding your dissatisfaction with the rose for that location, especially from a blooming perspective. You've had it in the ground for three years and had it so healthy and reblooming for all that time that you've had to cut back some of its long healthy canes? Antique Rose Emporium describes the length of their canes as winding around a 14' pole they pictured, so that part probably didn't come as a surprise. The blooms look wonderful to me, and that's true also past the first ultra-full flush. No rose has two first flushes, unless maybe it's a hybrid musk with an ultra heavy fall flush. But the Red Cascade rose is almost as beautiful in July as it was in May, and few roses happen to be nearly so floriferous as this one when other roses aren't doing much in the heat. This rose looks about as good as it can get for a southern garden to me. In your April picture so full of the red rosy blooms of Red Cascade, notice that most of your other roses really aren't doing much, especially compared to Red Cascade. But in July of last year and this year too, it's holding its own in comparison with many of your other roses. Some roses likely have the beginnings of all the blooms they are going to produce eventually during the season already incipiently present at the start of blooming each year, and their reblooming merely projects those blooms that take much longer to come on than when the first flush appears. I have a feeling from looking closely at your pictures (which show many darkened earlier blooms) that this rose might be of that type, especially considering its parentage. But it hardly matters, since apparently it does contain so very many blooms waiting around to get started at some point during the season. I certainly wouldn't criticize a decision to switch to some other kind of finely feathered evergreen shrub, but all the little red dots of Red Cascade's striking color on beautiful feathery foliage look spectacular to me. I take back all the previous suggestions I posted last night, as I don't see that you could likely improve things any by doing something different. Perhaps your mistake, if you made one, was in choosing a rose you really don't like as much as you thought you would when ordering it. Maybe really tiny flowers aren't noticeable enough to count for much blooming to you? If that's it, then just ignore all the oo-la-lah's I've been thinking in looking at your beautiful rose pictures, Sherry. Just replace those little miniature rose plants if you really prefer larger blooms! Best wishes, Mary

I just got mine, and I chose it because of its relationship to Piedmont Gold, which is the one Satisfaction sported from, and then Goodness Gracious sported from Satisfaction. I have those three and another Piedmont Gold sport, Sentimental Journey. Which I bought accidentally, mistaking the name for Journey's End. However, it was a good kind of mistake, and gives my collection a bit more depth in the strong gorgeous big growing hosta area. I'm sure others will chime in here quickly, since a good many of the Goodness Gracious plants flew out of the nurseries this summer. It is eye catching alright. Sort of a family tradition. I don't know if you've made the acquaintance of a very helpful data base or not, but you can begin with the HostaLibrary.org......then when you click to view a hosta picture, at the top of its page will be an active link for you to click to view more information about that hosta. That will take you to MYHOSTAS.BE and there you will find several parts to check out. One is the index of sports--the family tree of many many hosta and how many sports they threw....I think Gold Standard must be the champ with up to 150 or something like that. Also, another part, if you want to look up information about Goodness Gracious all by itself, you search (by typing that name in) the very first part of the database. It throws back to you all the possible plants you might be looking for....even if you only know part of the names.....the portion about where you can buy it is not current pricing, but it gives you an idea of where to start looking anyway. I'll link you to the MYHOSTAS.BE page which features Goodness Garcious, and you explore from there. Hope this helps a wee bit. :) Here is a link that might be useful: My Hostas...sports...Goodness Gracious

I thought I had a more comprehensive series of photos, but I might have not brought them over when I bought new computers a few weeks ago. The following are not pretty, but they might help: ABOVE: This shows a couple of things I had to work around. High over the toilet is a jog of the vent pipe, it comes into the room because it jogs around a load bearing beam in the wall. Lighting: You see two illuminated light bulbs. Those are the sconce locations for the "new' design. The original design had two sinks, two wall mirrors, and three wall sconces. The old wall sconce locations are the covered up junction boxes. I redid the wiring so there is no live wring in those now unused j-boxes. Outlets: Look at the middle shelf in the closet on the left. In the back right corner you can see a box. I built that to house a couple of electrical outlets. Two outlets for inside the closet, another outlet that is on the closet sidewall facing the sink, you can barely see the cover plate for that box on the closet wall to the left of the drill. More electrical: In the 48" tall cabinet that hides the toilet, there are four outlets in the upper part of that cabinet box. There is one outlet that faces the sink, there is another on the opposite side that faces the toilet. There are two inside the upper cubby to provide power to items in the upper drawer. To protect those outlets, there is a false back wall in the rear of the upper cubby of that toilet cabinet. The cabinet itself is about 32" deep, the false back wall is about 10" out from the cabinet's back, affording roughly 22" of depth for the upper toilet drawer. The cabinets: Nothing fancy, 3/4" birch plywood boxes. Horizontal shelves/tops/bottoms are recessed into the cabinet sides in a 1/4" deep dado. Titebond glue and screws. Cabinet backs are 1/2" MDF, recessed into the cabinet sides/top/bottom. Glued and screwed. Recessing the cabinet backs into the cabinet helps keep the cabinet perfectly square. I typically use a 2" wide vertical stile on my cabinet face frames. I prefer my frames to be flush with the edges of the cabinet sides. With the cabinet sides being 3/4" thick, two of them make 1-1/2". So I'll use a strip of 1/2" filler between adjacent boxes to get that 2" thickness. With my face frames being flush with the inside faces of the cabinet sides, to get square face frames you need square cabinet carcasses. You can't disguise sloppy construction with this method. Toekicks: Under the cabinets you see scrap pieces of 2x4. Those were eventually covered with wood and painted black. They simply limit the depth of the hole under the cabinet to round 8", giving dust bunnies less room to hide. ABOVE: This shows the same run of cabinets with the face frames installed. You can see the electrical outlet on wall of the left closet, facing the sink. You can see the outlet on right side of the toilet cabinet, facing the toilet. ABOVE: Everyone needs a place to keep their "to do" list. I know I'll never lose this list. At least not until I cover it with the teak top. ABOVE: Remember that really small vent pipe that jogged into the room? Well, I covered it with this really big soffit. Nothing like overkill, eh? I actually used it to balance out the visual weight of the upper part of the closet on the left side of the sink. Visually, it centers things to the open area over the center of the sink. Might sound like a lot of silly voodoo design, but visually it feels comfortable to me. The band around the upper walls is backer for the crown molding. ABOVE: Speaking of teak...this is 4/4 teak, or "four quarter" teak. If you go t a lumberyard and by a "one-by-four", it'll be 3/4" thick by 3-1/2" wide. If you go to a lumberyard and order 4/4 lumber, it'll be 1" thick. For 4/4 thickness or less, I'll use one row of biscuits. For 5/4 and thicker, I'll use a double row. In this bathroom the tub deck is 2" (8/4) thick, the sink countertop is 1-1/2" (6/4) thick, and the toilet cabinet teak top is 1" (4/4) thick. ABOVE: I usually use epoxy with teak. I thought I read a recent article that the newer titebond forumations work well on teak, but hey, when you buy epoxy by the gallon, you may as well use it, right? Except that I buy Titebond 4 gallons at a time. Hmmmmmm.... Okay, anyhow, I use epoxy. Teak is an oily wood, so prior to using epoxy I'll wipe down the edges to be glued with acetone. The acetone removes the oils. I mix the epoxy, apply it to the biscuits and the edges with an acid (flux) brush, sap it all together and clamp it up. Biscuits are designed to absorb moisture from water-based glues like Titebond and expand within the cut slots, they really lock the pieces together. Although there is no moisture in epoxy for the biscuit to absorb, it still provides more surface area for the epoxy, plus the biscuits help register and align the teak during the clamping process. ABOVE: After the epoxy has cured. I'm getting ready to belt sand these with 80-grit to smooth it out. Top photo is for the "toilet" cabinet, the bottom photo is a teak window sill for the window behind the tub. So...not the greatest series of "how to" photos. But hopefully they'll help a bit. Mongo

I have creamy white cabinets and the same on crown and trim. Our keeping room (ha-fancy name for area off kitchen that is bigger than a eat-in area, but smaller than most family rooms-about 10x15)has a merlot-ish couch, two vanilla club chairs and several antique pieces (poplar drop leaf table, cherry dough trough, and 3 mahogany small tables we use as a coffee table. The wood pieces look lovely against the Sage. I think the Saybrook Sage would be beautiful with cherry cabinets. It depends on whether you want dark, cozy or more bright and light. Our white cabinets lighten everything.