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Islands with butcher block tops...love it or hate it?

14 years ago

I'm debating on putting butcher block on my island and was wondering if anyone had any input on that. If you have it do you like it and would you do it again? And do you have seating with the butcher block counters? My kitchen is going to be white and my island (also white) will be 4x8 and used as a prep area with seating. Would love input and pictures. Thanks so much!

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Comments (6)

bkinsey
Original Author
14 years ago
Also would like to know if you oil your butcher block or if you sealed it. I really want a more natural look and am planning on oiling it and hoping for patina...any experience with the upkeep of that would also be appreciated!
Lisa B.
14 years ago
I am in the middle of my kitchen reno now, we are getting AB honed granite for the perimeter counters and have ordered a John Boos cherry butcher block for the island. My kitchen is a bit too long and narrow to have seating at the island, but the top will be oiled as well. If you seal it, you can't use it for actually cutting food on; only oiled wood surfaces are food-safe, from what I understand. I fell in love with a similar setup in a showroom kitchen and liked the warmer look, since my kitchen is going to be mostly white as well. I think butcher block is a classic natural material, I say go for it!

Good luck!
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I think you should definitely check out Craft Art if you look at Boos. I have been dealing with them on a project of my own and they have this "Price Match" that you can actaully do - if the company is comparable. And so far Boos is one of the companies they will price match it looks like. I don't know if it will apply for your job, but you should at least check it out if you are price hunting. They did it for me and I have a second project I am thinking of having them price match. What can I say? So far doing the research for best price has been really good.. especially because I think I may get better quality at that better price. I do know that when I talked to them they were super helpful, too, or else I probably wouldn't even be posting. Obviously they helped me with the standard sales question stuff but they actually helped me figure out my vision and how wood works in kitchens etc. Still haven't made my final decision (such a long decision making process to try to get it all exactly right!) but I'm certainly leaning in their direction... it's at least a really good resource. End grain is more expensive because of how its constructed, but if you get it in a less expensive wood it can be doable. Maybe look at Hickory or Hard Maple or even "Rustic Black Walnut" - this is the one Craft Art told me about that I may go with in plank construction because it's a dark wood in their lowest price because it has more knots and things - which I actually like. (apparently some people don't want wood that looks like wood??) Hope you find what you are looking for! Hickory End Grain (From the craft art wood species page btw) Are you looking for a stand alone island or just a top? I just ran across this when I was trying to find pics to add to my response. (even if you aren't - i just think this thing looks cool. haha) This one is from their "store" site. Craft Art store where I found these. Species is Am. Cherry - loove it ps. can I get a major high five for learning how to insert a link and a photo?? : ) Here is a link that might be useful: Craft Art and Price Match
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I can tell you that if you are buying the Craft Art DIY and just doing the finish/oil it Really is easy. Read the directions, and don't overlook the "Tips". The only thing that may take some skill is cutting out a sink. And you basically just need a jig saw (or a handyman) for that. I did the Waterlox because we wanted it to be waterproof and not ever get white rings or food stains (shes a red wine aholic and I eat a lot of mustard.. overshare?). Mineral oil doesn't resist that stuff at all. They are both oils, so if you are at all worried about water/condensation/durability, I'd go with the stuff they recommend. The most important things they said to do when I called were to use constant pressure and not stop part way through while you are rubbing on the oil especially on the last coat. They said for the first coat put it on fast and even. The technique is basically just smooth, even, slightly overlapping straight strokes. If my wife can do it (and she wanted to so I let her) I really think most people can. She has no woodworking or even painting experience or anything. Also, if you do the Waterlox avoid doing it somewhere that the air may be carrying dust or leaves or bugs. If something like that gets in the finish on the first few coats it's ok because you are going to sand it between every coat anyway. But if gunk gets in the finish after you put on the last coat, you can see it in the finished product. As far as sanding goes, it's seriously just a light scuff/once over. I wouldn't really call it sanding. It comes pre-sanded/smooth. You just scuff. We went with plank style Black Walnut. She said it looked more like "furniture" which is more "high end". Her words, not mine. I was originally wanting edge for the increased hardness, but it's not actually that much harder as it turns out. Also, I Seriously recommend going with 1.75" thick. It isn't that much more but WOW. It looks Really substantial. Even I'm impressed when I walk in my own kitchen. There's no mistaking it - it looks like real solid wood at that thickness. Sorry to have rambled, but we really love ours and I think you will, too. Best of luck, Ray Here is a link that might be useful: Craft Art DIY Instructions
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I have an thick end-grain square butcherblock that sits next to the sink and is the non-meat cutting/chopping worksurface we use on an almost daily basis. It gets wiped off several times and then gets a more vigorous cleaning at the end. I have another thinner board I use for cutting meat that is easier to scrub clean in the sink. When I first got the block I drenched it in pure tung oil thinned with citrus solvent. Let it soak in. Put more on. Repeat, repeat. Let it dry until it didn't smell. What happens over time is that the center area where I work the most starts to look "dry" like untreated wood. There's enough tung oil in it that I don't worry about it drying out or splitting but aesthetically it looks like a well-used block. Maybe twice a year I apply a coat of thinned tung oil over the whole thing to keep it sealed. I much prefer the soaked-in protection that the tung oil gives than the surface protection that frequently-applied mineral oil does. So to me there are two considerations: how well sealed is it to protect it from splitting and how does it look. The tung oil will give the best long-term protection but if you use it it will look used. If you want it to look "wet", then mineral oil and/or wax will give that look on the surface.
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Hi, I am another who has had a butcher block island for more than 20 years. It has been a love-hate relationship. I loved the look but hated the upkeep, particularly when my kids where small and there were more important things to do. The Bad: around the sink, we often got black stains, tin cans would leave black circles and berries and wine would stain it. Bleach cured the stains but the black marks needed to be scraped and sanded. I did this several times over the years. Also, though I used a cutting board, other people assumed butcher block meant cutting board so there were lots of small nicks and knife marks. I did oil it with mineral oil but probably not enough. I have been looking forward to an easy care granite counter which will be coming next Spring when I finally renovate. The good: several months ago, I was fed up with the way it looked and knew we were a long way from granite, so my husband got out the belt sander and went to it. The sawdust was unbelievable and went everywhere but when it was done, the now almost new looking counter had a nice uniform colour. I used a food safe finish that I suspect is something like waterlox and it looks amazing. Water beads on it and foods wipe up easily with no staining. And no more black marks. The wood is very nice to work on - warm and soft. So now I am wondering if I wouldn't like some in the new kitchen after all!. Good luck on your choices.
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autumngal
14 years ago
We have a butcher block counter tops throughout. My island is narrow (24") and is oiled, the bank of counter top by the sink is waterloxed. We use the island for cutting and just spread vegetable oil on it every several months. I love both of them. We're still not totally done, but here's a few photos:

Island with the vegetable oil:

Waterlox seal:

Color-wise they look pretty much the same, although you really can't see that from the photos.

Good luck!
ecdiskin
14 years ago
I'm doing it too! I'm going for a walnut top, either edge grain or plank on a 3x8 island--also with stools and used for prep...but I have decided to waterlox it. Apparently, it's a very natural looking finish...not high gloss at all. With our habit of leaving giant messes overnight after gatherings, I figure it gives a little more protection and I used to have a butcherblock that I actually used for cutting...I loved the look, but once it was well used in areas...it never felt or looked that hygenic! I sanded it down well when we listed the place for sale b/c I knew it would be a problem...however, if you're a big chef, I'm sure you'll appreciate the convenience...as everyone seems to remind us here...go with what you love!
reillykat
14 years ago
I like my butcher block island. it gives the kitchen a warmer more rustic look. I don't really use it for food prep. I treat it with John Boos beeswax/mineral oil combination. it's yellow, comes in a clear tube and sells for 8 dollars at sur la table. I have seating there and it's fine, altho i like the kids to use placemats. perimeter countertops are ab honed

Here is a link that might be useful: maple island
cooksnsews
14 years ago
I have a tiny island with a slab of Ikea oak BB on it. I love it! I treat it occasionally with mineral oil and beeswax. I don't cut directly on it but do roll out pastry and knead dough on it. Otherwise, it works as a landing pad and fruit basket stand...

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