GE Monogram has had a lot of issues for me. 20-30" to preheat(I've been told that's normal) When measuring your inside diameters, remember to account for the fan area. When I purchased mine I did take a cookie sheet typical of what I would use, however a roasting pan isn't the same as the fan juts out in the middle of the back wall.(That was my fault) It's just good to know. Hinges had to be replaced x's 2. Oven light won't turn off. etc. In 40 yrs. I never had so many issues. I also do have to admit, I can't seem to adjust to the convection function. Can't get that part accurate. Good Luck!!!

Thanks for the post! I walked through the house with the HVAC guys this morning to figure out alternatives. Unfortunately, there aren't many... I looked for alternative routes for the duct work but it really only works by going across the basement ceiling - up behind the fridge - through an already small closet, up the attic and then popping in from the ceiling. Asked about setting up a small furnace up in the attic to feed the second floor bedrooms independently of the basement and first floor but that would cost at least as much (and likely more) than the duct work. With the temperatures that we are comfortable with at night (60's), I'm hoping the baseboard electric does the trick. We recently insulated the attic and, even with the vents closed in the rooms, there is adequate heat up there now. I'm now thinking that when the furnace gives out, I may look into converting the house to hot water heating instead which should solve all these problems. Thanks again, E

quote" Do electric companies work with you at all on this since they will gain the increase in billing with the pool equip? "quote NO quote" Can they not tie into that one and avoid tearing up the driveway? "quote Yes, your electrical contractor can do that but it'll cost you a day or 2 without power. 1st, call in for a "drop locate" and have it flagged from the step down transformer to the meter. 2nd, have the utility company disconnect the existing drop at the transformer (day 1) 3rd, have your electrical contractor cut the drop on the good side of your driveway and start your new home run to the step down from the riser at the meter or from the step down to the riser. (day 2) 4th, have the power company make the connection to the step down transformer. (day 3) If you get lucky they'll make the connection on the end of day 2 and you'll only be a day without electricity. This is no big deal, it's just an inconvenience being without juice. We do it all the time to save on buyers costs and additional labor for the men. My buyers will usually take a couple of days with Tom Boudat at the local Motel 6. It's a lot cheaper than the additional labor necessary to bore under or sawcut a driveway. See ya, Kelly

Brad covered this well. I had a single duplex outlet installed above all of my fireplaces, as well as 1x coax and 1x cat6 in the another duplex box. True I don't want a TV in every single room over every fireplace, but I wanted the option to. A picture or a mirror over the fireplace covers these. Something Brad posted (and most people miss) is the studs which a TV mount bolts in to. Most TV mounts are 16" wide, but you want the mount centered. If you have a telescoping arm on the mount, they almost never sit centered and are offset. This is why what Brad did is great, as it lets you put the mount wherever it needs to go without modifying anything. True they make very good toggle bolts that just grip the sheetrock, buy why not use wood studs if you can? Also, take good photos of every single one so you know what you working with once everything is done I also ran extra conduit (smurf tube, flexible pvc, etc) from each of these to my unfinished basement. IMO all of my "over the fireplace TV's" will never have any boxes connected to them, but ya never know. You can also transfer HDMI signal over cat6 if you really need to (say for security cameras, not a 4k movie...) so some people run 2x cat6 cables everywhere just to future proof. I didn't Plan an "IT rack" space somewhere in your house. Most use an unfinished basement room, the cabinets can be locked etc so that part is up to you. Yes everything is wifi today, but hardwired is always better and more reliable. Depending on the size of your house, most will do a WAP (wireless access point) system instead of a single bulky wifi router that sits on your basement IT rack or another bad spot. Planning a WAP puts your wifi router in the best possible location in your house, or you could do 2 or 3 WAPs to make sure there's no dead zones etc. Anyway, these need cat6 ran (from your rack) to their location (and sometimes 110v outlet so plan hardware now). Same with security cameras. If you want them or to wire for them, that all needs to feed to your IT box Put your IT box on its own circuit. It might not pull a ton of power on it's own, but you don't want a vacuum cleaner tripping a breaker on accident and killing your data signal for the entire house.