Install the posts on the piers not in them. Many types of post base can be used.

When we do plant the .40 or better acq post in the ground they go cut side up into the hole then creet them in. The very old idea that gravel in the bottom will stop rot is a mith. One little trick that will work is to secure copper flat stock ground leval around the post slightley into the creet. The more exposure to moisture the more the copper leaches the more protection in the lower area that usually fails first. J.

I think you also have the option of setting the posts in "Quarry processed" (QP) gravel. This stuff is 1/2" to 3/4" stone with lime. When it "sets up" it is like weak concrete, but it drains water.

Of course, it is not as solid as 'crete, so you will have to go down pretty far. If you don't get below the frost line, they might "push up"

I have a white cedar fence in QP. (28 posts, 3' down). Last year a bad ice storm pushed a few posts up about 1 inch. But I just tapped them back down with a sledge. No big deal.

But maybe John H. has some other experiences / thoughts.

Never used that stuff Tom.

Over here the weak point is where the wood meets the ground. All the posts I tear out have rotted at ground leval the rest of the post is usually solid down below.

We dont have that frost heave thing in OKC. One other thing we drive 6'' glav #30 ringshank pole barn nails at different angles into the post before it goes in the hole. They will hold the post to the creet. Mix the creet at a very low slump and tamp the dickens out of it. J.

I'm with John Hyatt, set piers for the posts. Install an "L" bolt into the concrete and then attach a stand-off for the posts. This way I don't worry about moisture wicking. You will want to "skirt" the bottom to make it clean appearing.

Mine is supported with 6 x 6 PT which was then skinned with cedar.

{{!gwi}}

Thats some class A work Rob!! I am liking those roll ups. J.

john_hyatt

Thanks. They're actually not roll-ups. The photo doesn't show but the shades are weighted on both "bottom edges" and draped over a rod allowing one side to be pulled down (doubling their length from what is shown) and maximize the sun block. With a valance on all 4 sides, I can control the shade throughout the day.