The 'no mixing sprinkler styes rule' doesn't have much to do with pressure, its about application rate and not having one section soggy while the other section is still too dry. Most drip sysems can handle 50 psi, if you're going to mix the zone anyway, I wouldnt bother with a pressure reducer unless your using some real cheap drip brand, it won't affect the amount of water coming out of the emmitters. It's easier to mix a zone with rotors than say spray heads. You can usually nozzle your rotors down so that less water comes out, nozzleing them up might not work, depends on how much of your availabe water is being used already. Drip emmitters also come in sizes. Usually .5, 1 and 2 gpm. really some testing is needed. How long do you usually run the lawn zone and how often? You'll need to choose an emitter size to water your shrubs in the same amount of time. There are also other styles of garden emitters that are individually adjustable, often you can shut them right off, but i find most of them put out a lot of water... if I have to mix a spray zone, thats what I typically use. Hope the rambling helped, I can clarify if it didn't!

You should have a combination water pressure reducing and auto fill valve on then cold water supply to this boiler. Your system should be operating in the 15-18# range! which is what the pressure reducing section is typically factory set at. It is adjustable. That relief valve is a primary safety device. Get someone in who knows what they are doing and get it fixed. Constant addition of fresh water will harm the system over time. As well, it is possible for the precipitant at the mouth of the relief valve to actually seal the relief valve rendering it inop. You then have a bomb in the basement and yes, I do intend to scare you!

As long as your T&P valve on the WH is repeatedly bleeding off excess pressure then nothing bad should happen BUT I'd want the problem corrected sooner than your plumber seems to want to get around to it cause if your T&P valve sticks closed then possible BOOM and it is now August. When a PRV is installed and adjusted the plumbing system in your home becomes a CLOSED system and that necessitates the installation of a thermal expansion tank. I'd also replace the T&P valve in the WH at the same time BUT make sure the new T&P is an exact replacement in length and temp and pressure for the one that is installed in the WH from the factory. The aproned ones at the box stores think T&P valves are all the same and whatever is on the shelf fits all but it doesn't. In my experience you might have to really search to find an exact replacement T&P valve and don't let ANYONE, including plumbers, tell you it doesn't matter. As far as cost, I've learned that plumbing always costs more than you expected, but it has to be done. Call a couple other plumbers and ask for a free quote. With the proper water pressure faucets, fixtures, appliances, hoses, and toilet flappers will last a lot longer before needing attention. This post was edited by justalurker on Sat, Aug 10, 13 at 17:54

sktn77a, yes its a good man coil. The entire system is good man, matched and sized correctly. First thing I need to clarify is if the blower and the coil need to be swapped out. currently its Horizontal right, return > Air blower > Coil > Supply Goodman installation says Return > Coil > Air Blower > Supply. This is where the majority of the disconnect is since even the manuals contradict in some places as do the techs.