Screwing 4x4 Ipe

15 years ago

I am having difficulty getting the screws for my gate to sit really solid in my Ipe 4x4 posts. The gate is pretty heavy, about 40lbs. The hinges I have came with some screws that are about 1" long and I would guess about 3/16" diameter. I am drilling about a 3/32" pilot and when I drive the screws they get in and just spin and then the screws bore out the hole to the point they are loose and can pull out. Does anyone have any tips on what size, type of screw for maximum holding power in my Ipe posts? Also what size pilot is best?

Thanks,

riles

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Comments (15)

john_hyatt
15 years ago
Riles I am thinking you need to go get some comerical hinges the kind used on steel doors then buy some longer screws for them,at least 2'' long. Try out the pilot on a cut off until it works. J.
aidan_m
15 years ago
If you are having a hard time finding the right size pilot bit, get a drill index of wire size drill bits. The number size bits are made in very close increments. You will have 4 different sizes between 3/32" and 1/8"

Get some commercial template hinges like John suggests. For screws, make sure you use stainless. I'll try and post a pic of an Ipe gate 7' tall x 44" wide.
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tom_nwnj
15 years ago
riles-

All screws are categorized not by diameter in inches, but size. This shank size corresponds to a pilot size. (sounds like you are using #6)

http://www.mcfeelys.com/tech/drill-size-recs.htm

But as John Hyatt says, you are probably using hardware that is too small. I think #8 would be a minimum screw to hold a gate.

From my brief experience with ipe and garapa, pilots should be at the upper end of the range. For #8's I use an extra long 9/64" twist drill.

BTW, I have bought most of my stainless fasteners from McFeeley's. They are great.
brooklyndecks
15 years ago
Riles,
You already got some good advice here, so all that I can add is that you should lubricate the screws with soap or beeswax. Less chance of snapping.

steve
riles_j
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks guys! I got it re-installed this weekend and it looks like it will hold like a champ. My only question now is whether my hinges will hold up to the load. I'll have to wait and see on that one. Since it's a pool gate I wanted to get self-closing hinges so it limits what I can use. If they don't hold up I may have to get to more durable hinge.

Riles
aidan_m
15 years ago
You only need one spring loaded self-closing spring hinge to do the job. The other hinges can be the heavy duty commercial style. As long as the gate is hung plumb and balanced it only takes a small amount of spring force to close it.
jtcm05
15 years ago
Any updated pictures riles?
riles_j
Original Author
15 years ago
No updated pictures. We have finished the railing and are picking away at the finish work which seems like is never ending. We have kind of taken a break to enjoy the deck some before the summer slips by. And we are just about to run out of wood. DOH! I'm not sure where I miscalculated, but I am going to have to make a run next weekend to pick up about 100 more linear feet of Ipe.

I will be sure at post some pics once it is completed. Have you started building your deck?

Riles
jtcm05
15 years ago
Have you started building your deck?

Yes. I'm sort of in the home stretch, but i may run out of material for the railings and deck treads. I also can't seem to find any 1x12 to face the stair stringers with so i may be forced to double up some x6 or x8. So temp stair treads are in place for now. It seems like very little has gone smoothly, but the tips and ideas i've gotten from this forum have been invaluable to me. Here's a few low res shots...

{{!gwi}}
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riles_j
Original Author
15 years ago
Looks great!! Nice job.

Do you just not like the look of the 2 - 1x6's for the stair treads? That's what I did and seems to be a pretty standard way of doing those. 1x12 will be hard to find as it will have to be custom joined. I'm sure George over at East Teak can do that, but you are going to pay for it.

Riles
john_hyatt
15 years ago
JT while your building put a temp cap on the rail posts,something as simple as a 2x6 scrap will do. J.
jtcm05
15 years ago
Thanks. Riles, I will be using 5/4x6 for the stair treads. I was hoping to find 1x12 for fascia for the sides of the stair stringers. I should have made that more clear. I sent George an email the other day about the 1x12 situation. Hopefully he can help as he provided my material for me. Otherwise, I will just glue 2 1x8s and use that.

John, I'll do that, Thanks. Most of the posts still have the anchorseal on the tops from east teak but some do not.
john_hyatt
15 years ago
Good Deal JT,actually the thinned down wax has no uv protection play it safe with the temps. J
tom_nwnj
15 years ago
jtcm - I both glued up 1"X10" garapa plus bought glue ups from East Teak. Both failed in spots. If you are going to do that, make sure the PT is fairly dry.

Otherwise, just rip the bullnosed edge off the boards that you will use for facia on the open stringers. In that way, it will not be so obvious that they are deck boards.

BTW, on your stair treads, if you have a router, consider putting a bullnose edge (1/2") on all exposed sides. Has a real good look (tip from brooklyn decks).

{{!gwi}}
jtcm05
15 years ago
That looks great. I may have to try that. Great idea. Thanks Tom and all.