clockerfields, I've used Stegmeier products since about 1969. I've never sealed Kool Deck. The seal they recommend is for areas that have distinct freeze/thaw cycles. Their sealer is to protect against water penetrating the pours in the surface. I built pools in a climate that rarely had temps drop below freezing. I have seen frost damage to Kool Deck when the temps dip down to the teens. Hope this helps you a bit. Good luck.

Thats great! I'm happy for you and hope the rest goes fast!

I agree with Weissman - you can over-apply. The whole point of sealant is to be absorbed into the stone, thereby lowering the stone's absorption rate. If you apply too many layers of sealant, then the multiple layers just sit on top on the previous layer rather than absorbing into the stone, and will cause haze. Before sealing, drop some water on your counter where it gets the most use to see whether the water beads up, or is absorbed within a minute or two. If it beads up, the sealant that your fabricator applied is still good, and you don't need sealant at this time. If the water is absorbed, wait until it dries out completely, then apply one layer of sealant. Wait 24 hours, drop some water on your granite and see if the water now beads up. If it does not, apply another layer of sealant, If the water then beads up, you are done with sealing for 6 months to a year. If you are not using a commercial brand of sealant, then the 511 Impregnator sealant at Home Depot is very good. The 16 oz. is the smallest size it comes in, and a little goes a long way, but HD does carry bigger sizes too. Here is a link that might be useful: 511 Impregnator Sealant in 16 oz. size at HD This post was edited by Sahmmy on Tue, May 27, 14 at 13:16

First, be aware that not all natural stone countertops need sealing. This is only for stones that need sealing. If your stone does not need sealing, do NOT seal! Sealing stones that do not need it can cause problems later with haze, streaking, ghost etching, etc. If applied inappropriately, the sealer will have to be manually removed to return the stone to it's original look. Stones with an absorption rate From our own StoneGirl (Jun 4, 2009) Whatever sealer you use, read and follow the instructions carefully and be sure to buff off all excess sealer. For maximum effectiveness, each application of sealer needs to fully cure before the next application - normally about 24 hours. Here is a how-to for sealing: You will need the following: Home improvement strength alcohol Lint-free rags or unprinted paper towels (the "Rags in a Box" disposable paper rags found at home improvement stores are really great for this) Paint pad (those hard, fluffy coated pads they use to apply paint) Sealer What to do: Clean your counter tops by wiping them down to remove any food residue. Wipe the counters with a rag soaked in alcohol. (Be sure to follow the safety instructions on the container) Once the counters are clean and dry, apply the sealer with the paint pad. You can pour a little puddle and spread it with the paint pad. Work in smaller, manageable areas. Leave the sealer for the recommended time and buff off the residue with the lint-free rags. Be sure to TOTALLY remove all excess sealer or you might end up with streakiness and smudginess. Change rags often to prevent smearing excess sealer. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until all your surfaces are sealed. Leave sealer to cure for 24 hours and test for water absorption. Drip water on the stone to see if the stone still darkens. If it does, another application of sealer is in order. Repeat the entire procedure until water beads up and no longer darkens the stone. Do not think that more is better. Work with smaller quantities of sealer and properly clean up after each application. Your results will be better than trying a single, heavy handed application. For daily cleaning, just use a couple microfiber towels (one dry and one slightly damp) Clean counters with the damp one - you could add some soap to it if you wished - and buff dry with the dry rag. No fuss, and pretty easy