Thanks for the laugh about "purified angel's tears"! I'm really leaning towards marble in the shower area...I did some internet research and read that a diluted bleach solution is okay. I'm not sure what think! I printed out catmom's reply (THANK YOU!)with all the product names in case we decide to go with natural stone. Went tile looking again today and saw some pretty porcelains, which I know are much less maintenance. Nothing is "set in stone" LOL:)

Yes, you can! Have you had a chance to read the "Read Me" thread? It gives directions on how to best seal counters that need it (from one of the stone pros that visits this site occasionally). But, before you seal it, find out if it needs to be sealed. In technical terms, any stone with an absorption rate of not need to be sealed (e.g., most Uba Tubas and most Absolute Blacks are too dense to seal). In fact, if you seal a stone that doesn't need it, you're asking for trouble later. If a stone does not need to be sealed, it means things are not absorbed...including sealer. The sealer will sit on top of the stone and eventually cause hazing and other issues. The sealer will need to be removed to "fix" the problem. Less technically, get a sample of your slab (not some sample they have just lying (laying?) around the shop). Pour some water on your stone sample and leave it for a few minutes. Then, wipe it up. Does it leave a dark spot? (It will eventually go away as the absorbed water evaporates.) If so, you probably do need to seal it. Also, when water splashes onto the stone, does it bead up? If so, it probably does not need to be sealed. Other tests to perform on your stone sample...the vinegar, red wine, etc. tests. If the stone is already installed, you don't want to stain it, so only do the water tests! The "Read Me" thread also has a link to a "Stone Advice" thread that has more information on what tests to perform on your stone sample. I wonder, though, if the $1,500 is for a "lifetime sealer"... The jury is out on whether these are truly "lifetime" and whether they're worth the extra $$. (Using Google or other search engine outside of GW, do a search for "granite" "lifetime" "sealer" and add "site:ths.gardenweb.com" to the criteria. It will find any current and older threads that discuss this topic.) Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!

+++++ Kitchen Forum Basics +++++ How are the home page and the Forum organized? At the top of the page, is the Search box - see the "Searching" post below for more information. Below the Search box are a series of links to Houzz sites (Photos, Find Pros, Shop, etc.) - these are not GardenWeb Forums. Next, is the name of the forum "Kitchens" Following the name of the forum is a list of related GardenWeb forums (Plumbing, Appliances, Bathrooms, etc.). Note that this is not an exhaustive list of GardenWeb forums. To see the complete list go to the following pages: -- Home Forums: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums -- Gardening Forums: http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums Next, are the boxes to use when starting a new thread. -- The first (smaller) box is the box for the subject or title of your thread. The subject is limited to 70 characters, so make it brief - but, make it informative. Give a very brief description of what you need help with. Do not say something like "Help!" or "Need input!" without telling us what you need help or input on. If it's urgent - as in you need help within the next couple of hours - end it with "Urgent!" Don't overuse it, though, as people will start ignoring it. (The "calling wolf syndrome"!) -- The larger box below the subject/title box is for the detailed description of what you need help/input for. There is a character limit, but I don't know offhand what it is - but it is significant, so don't skimp in your description. Please format it so it's readable - that includes breaking into paragraphs and using lists, as appropriate. Run-on paragraphs make it difficult to decipher what you are asking and, often, people will give up and move on to another thread. There is also a limit to the number of pictures you can include in each post - I think it's ten for Kitchens (I seem to recall it was 3 or 4 right after the Houzz takeover, but b/c we post so many, it was increased.) Beneath the Message Box are icons for limited formatting (bold & italics and bulleted &, numbered list - but the lists are now limited to one level since the Houzz takeover), adding photos, adding videos, and adding links. The Thread List The Kitchens Forum home page lists 30 thread titles, in order of the last time someone posted to the thread (well, mostly, sometimes the list is out of order, but not often.) The first page displays the last 2 hours or so of activity - depending on how busy the Forum is. Below the thread list are page numbers 1-167 for the 167 pages of threads available -- capturing eight or nine months or so of threads, again, depending on how busy the Forum is. .

If you do need to seal--and I actually don't think you do--this is a 5-minute job that does not require your contractor to come back to do. It does not need any special skill - if you are able to wipe lightly in a circular motion, you can do it. In fact, if your counter is the type to need annual resealing, you will have to do this yourself eventually anyway. Buy the smallest bottle of sealer you can find at HD. It will still outlast you in this kitchen, as you just need a very small amount in order to seal. (Don't get one that says "enhancer", you just want "impregnator"). Follow the directions on the container. Seriously, 5 minutes or really 3. It'll take longer to clear your counters of your toaster etc than it will to seal. Having said all that, I am not sure you need to seal. There is such a thing as too much sealant, and/or sealant applied when it is not needed. When that occurs, your counters will show what is called "hazing" as the sealer sits on top and doesn't absorb, either because there is already sealant applied, or because the stone is so dense it doesn't need sealer (I haven't sealed my granite counter in years because it is a dense-type stone). One way to tell if you have hazing if you aren't sure is to drag lightly a dish or bowl on the counter, and if it leaves track marks, your sealer is not needed and hasn't absorbed. That could be what the "swirly marks" you mentioned are, but we can't tell without photos. The drag marks are in the sealer layer, not in the stone. You can remove it with acetone; there are threads about this. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Miracle-Sealants-16-oz-511-Impregnator-511-PT-SG-H/100672948