How can I tell if my countertops were sealed?
7 years ago
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- 7 years ago
- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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can I wait to seal my marble?
Comments (2)Let me put it this way-- The last home I owned in Connecticut back in the early 90's, I had a marble shower. The shower walls and bathroom floor were pink argenta and the rest of the walls were statuary white, all with white grout. Not a thing in that bathroom ever got sealed, and it looked just as good 4 years later when we headed to south Florida. I'll let you take it from there. Keep in mind, though-- if you use the shower before you seal, give it atleast 72 hours to completely dry out. You don't want a SPEC of moisture in that stone, or you're going to have big problems with the sealer afterward....See MoreHow can I tell if my concrete floor is sealed?
Comments (5)Well, I guess I'm on my own! I decided it must not be sealed, since it absorbed the water enough to still be wet this morning! There is no problem with moisture coming through the floor. We had pad and carpet down previously for 25 years and when we pulled it up there was no mildow or moisture marks. However, we are installing an underlayment with the poly. layered as it's base! I spent all day skim coating the floor! My neck is killing me but I am satisfied with the results! Good luck to any others who find themselves not so fortunate, as I hope I am, to not have a sealed or painted concrete slab!! An almost 62 yr. old woman--if I can do this--anyone can! :o/...See MoreCan I stain butcher block? How do I seal?
Comments (8)The properties of warping of wood have been thoroughly studied and understood scientifically. Casual observations relating warping to finish (or lack thereof) are faulty. My mother had a butcherblock portion of counter for over 30 years, never oiled or finished anywhere, that never warped. I've had boards that warped and others that didn't, some finished, some unfinished, some partly finished. It's not the finish. Wood tabletops, countertops, decks, etc. are exposed to more water on the top than the bottom, causing the top to swell and try to expand. But the wood's thickness remains stable and prevents this. The cells of wood on the top of the board become compressed from their original cylindrical shape (like a soda straw) into an oval shape. As it dries out, the wood cells do not fully regain their original shape, so the top shrinks, pulling the board concave. This is called "compression shrinkage." Therefore, finishing the bottom of a tabletop or countertop will not prevent warping. Warping will always be cupping of the top due to swelling from wetness of the top and subsequent compression shrinkage. If lack of finish on the bottom caused warping, you would see the tabletop bow, not cup -- but this never happens. Or think about it another way: what liquid is going to soak into the bottom of your installed butcherblock counter, that a finish is going to block? It's not going to happen. And no finish blocks water vapor (from humidity in the air), only slows it a little bit, so this would make no difference in protection either. So if you want a tabletop or countertop not to cup over time, there are two things to consider. The most important factor is the quality of wood making up the butcherblock: the size and shape of the wood cells, their density, how the wood was cut in relation to the growth rings, and how it was dried. Butcherblock made up of dense, old-growth, quartersawn boards slowly air dried is going to hold its shape (even when totally unfinished), while strips of young, low-density, plainsawn boards are going to warp easily. Second, keep the top as dry as possible. Don't let liquids soak into it, or use a water-resistant film finish if you expect liquid exposure. It's not the finish on the bottom, it's how dry you can keep the top, that helps prevent cupping....See MoreCan I seal my own countertop?
Comments (8)Yes, you can! Have you had a chance to read the "Read Me" thread? It gives directions on how to best seal counters that need it (from one of the stone pros that visits this site occasionally). But, before you seal it, find out if it needs to be sealed. In technical terms, any stone with an absorption rate of not need to be sealed (e.g., most Uba Tubas and most Absolute Blacks are too dense to seal). In fact, if you seal a stone that doesn't need it, you're asking for trouble later. If a stone does not need to be sealed, it means things are not absorbed...including sealer. The sealer will sit on top of the stone and eventually cause hazing and other issues. The sealer will need to be removed to "fix" the problem. Less technically, get a sample of your slab (not some sample they have just lying (laying?) around the shop). Pour some water on your stone sample and leave it for a few minutes. Then, wipe it up. Does it leave a dark spot? (It will eventually go away as the absorbed water evaporates.) If so, you probably do need to seal it. Also, when water splashes onto the stone, does it bead up? If so, it probably does not need to be sealed. Other tests to perform on your stone sample...the vinegar, red wine, etc. tests. If the stone is already installed, you don't want to stain it, so only do the water tests! The "Read Me" thread also has a link to a "Stone Advice" thread that has more information on what tests to perform on your stone sample. I wonder, though, if the $1,500 is for a "lifetime sealer"... The jury is out on whether these are truly "lifetime" and whether they're worth the extra $$. (Using Google or other search engine outside of GW, do a search for "granite" "lifetime" "sealer" and add "site:ths.gardenweb.com" to the criteria. It will find any current and older threads that discuss this topic.) Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!...See MoreRelated Professionals
Fox Lake Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Martinsburg Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Charlottesville Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Eureka Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Los Alamitos Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Martha Lake Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Port Charlotte Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Port Orange Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Rancho Cordova Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Bullhead City Cabinets & Cabinetry · Effingham Cabinets & Cabinetry · Holt Cabinets & Cabinetry · Newcastle Cabinets & Cabinetry · Lake Nona Tile and Stone Contractors · Shady Hills Design-Build Firms- 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
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