The fence situation is the kink of the whole property, and is causing me the biggest grief right now. What you can't tell from the photo is that the pool is actually raised higher than the yard behind it, and there is approximately 10 feet behind/between the pool fence and the split rail fence that runs the perimeter of the yard. The lattice is largely there for privacy, as none of the pools in our area have fences for code. Neighborhood rules dictate that you can have a privacy fence around your pool, provided it's far enough back from the property line. (Where the split rail fence is) I want to do just what you're saying, but it would be ALOT of money right now. They'd basically have to come in and build a new retaining wall behind the pool, add fill dirt to bring the surface level with the existing pool deck to expanding the area (to allow for flowers and the like), and then we could fence around that. However, we would then be very close to the setback requirements. Arrgghhhhh....... Since we're so far over budget on the interior renovation, this project may have to wait until next year. :(

Did you find a solution to this problem? I have the same issue with my white pearl pebble tec spa. I refilled it with well water and the whole spa is stained gold. The pool stain treat pad worked to spot clean it, so my pool store suggested adding a pool stain treat product to the water. It has helped, but the stain is still there. I am at the point where I just want to drain the spa and acid wash it. BTW, I learned the hard way that my outdoor hose bibs run untreated well water. I am now topping off my pool and spa by running a hose to a tap in the house, so that I am using water that has been processed by our water treatment system.

Multiple times on this forum, I have stressed this and have highly recommended that water should be trucked in to fill a pool immediately. Anytime puddles are formed on the surface, the plaster will cure at a different rate than the remainder. It's not a stain, but a discoloration due to the water puddling. Water/hydration is part f the curing process. During the fill, sequestering agents must be added to protect against mineral staining. With the pool filled over a few hours, the filtration system must be started. Brushing can start immediately twice a day or more if you prefer. This is to prevent the plaster dust developed from sticking to the surface. The filtration system will pick up suspended material. Brush for 2 weeks. Within 12 hours, the water can be tested and adjusted as needed. DAILY testing should be done for 2 weeks. Within a couple of days typically, the plaster dust can be vacuumed to waste. We will use a vinyl vacuum head that has brushes so as not scratch the surface. Filters must be backwashed or taken apart and cleaned at this point. DAILY testing should be done for 2 weeks. Do not blast the heat in a spa for 28 days. Do not run auto cleaners for at least 2 weeks. We hold off on adding chlorine for as long as we can over this 2 week period. Small amounts are added if hot weather is a factor. Do not add salt for salt water generators for 30 days. (Also, I can’t believe a PB would sell a $100K pool, stick a hose in it on Friday afternoon and leave for the weekend, never mentioning to the homeowner that something as basic as moving the hose could ruin our plaster finish...) I can believe it. I've seen it multiple times in 35 years. The dirt stains probably will come probably out over time as they are just organic material. The discoloration I'm afraid, will not. It may fade a bit over time. Jack's Magic makes several products that deal with stains. They may have a solution for this issue.

OK. This is not a water chemistry issue, Sounds like your diligent in the chemistry management. You're one of the few!! When we set our plumbing either in the spa or the pool, we have to support the pipe by tying it to a piece of rebar. The pipes are stubbed out beyond the shotcrete. After the shot, the crew will carve out around the pipes to allow for access to the pipe to cut them back prior to plastering. I'll post a pic of a recent build during construction to see the stubbed pipes. Most times we have to chip a bit more to allow the wall fitting to sit back far enough to finish flush with the plaster. Sometimes the supporting piece of rebar interferes and we will cut it out. The pipe is cut back and the wall fitting is set. Everything is pre-measured to ensure the fitting when glued is fully seated and ends flush for plaster. Setting the wall fittings should be the PB's responsibility. Not the plaster contractor. Perhaps in your case the rebar was exposed, the pipes were cut back too far, not extended and the plaster contractor set the wall fittings flush as they were plastering. So now the wall fitting is not glued to the stub and the space in between has the rebar exposed resulting in rust. It will never stop. Chipping out the wall would be a great undertaking and any plaster patching would be noticeable. I don't have eyes on these wall fittings, but perhaps cleaning up the affected areas, allow to dry, reach into the fittings and rough the plastic surface with some emery cloth. A long, narrow wire brush attachment may work well. Wipe it clean and apply some GE Silicone where there is a gap. This may be tricky if it's in deep. A long flat applicator of some sort will help. Apply enough to fill the gap but not too much interfere with the jet function. Allow 24 hrs to set. This won't be a permanent fix, but it should stop the rusting issues.