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Porches & Decks

Ideas to attach deck top rail?

15 years ago

Hi all. I'm in the process of installing my railings and was looking for ideas to attach the final pieces of 2x4 to the top of the railings pictured below. I'd like to do it in a way that hides the fasteners but all I could think of is either gluing only and clamping or by pugging the fastener holes. Any other ideas? By the way....thanks to Kevin for the excellent railing idea. ;)

{{!gwi}}

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Comments (5)

deckman22
15 years ago
If you're going to leave those post up above the top rail you could screw those to the 2x4's on the ends & toe screw up from the outside of the rail into the top cap. Only the screws on the ends would show.

All that said I would rather use a 5/4x6 board for the cap. Cut the post off flush & run the cap over the post using headcoat screws straight down, it makes a stronger rail that way, but that's just my perference.

Al
jtcm05
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks for the reply Al. I really like the look of how the extended posts break up the lengths of railing and was planning on leaving them up and capping them somehow. Especially since I already have all the material to cap the rails with 2x4. Do you have any pics showing 5/4x6 cap and flush posts?
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Thanks John. The wood on the deck is all Ipe and the pics were taken prior to staining. Last year I used Woodzotic to finish, this year I let it go. Since Woodzotic is no longer available, next year I'll probably use WoodTux or Armstrong Clark after a good cleaning. The edging is a cut piece of Ipe routered on the end and screwed in and plugged. It really gives the deck a more finished look hiding all the end cuts. My contractor used Tiger Claw hidden fasteners, I believe the TCG type. These are made for hardwoods and are stainless steel with an anodized black finish. I know the concensus on this board is to stay away from hidden fasteners but my contractor insisted he has had great success with the TCG's.I do know he didn't purchase pre-grooved Ipe, but rather made biscuit cuts in the boards where the fasteners attach. The deck is now two years old and I haven't had any problems. It is holding up great so far and I love it. Scott
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john_hyatt
15 years ago
JT it would be possible to bisket joint the 2x4s to the top rail using tightbond 111 and a few clamps, a person could do it with out the biskets but...well you know...I just love using that machine!!

If you dident want to buy a whole lot of clamps you could just get like hmmmmm let me look up there------say 6 clamps and do the work in sections. Clamps are very good to have around I have several walls covered up with them and I never have enough!!! J.
jtcm05
Original Author
15 years ago
Great idea John. Unfortunately all I have is a half dozen pipe clamps which wont be deep enough.

I think I may have no choice but to just use plugs to hide the countersunk screw heads.

Anyone else do it differently?
builtbymac
15 years ago
Deckman called it:
On your existing 2x4 top rail - using a countersink bit, predrill a hole 1" below the top edge at an upward angle every 18" or so.
Install your cap rail by running (2) 3" screws per end into the adjacent post (Run screws up from bottom edge of 2x4 cap rail into post to hide those screws). Better predrill those holes too.
Run 2" screws up through the angled pre-drilled holes to secure the entire length of the cap rail.

No visible fasteners from on the deck (you'll be able to see the holes in the top rail when you're out on your lawn).
Another good thing about NOT top screwing is less chance for rot (no topside penetrations means less spots for water to enter)

Let me know if you don't understand this...

Mac

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