Use tung Oil mixed with an evaporative solvent above 50 degrees F after pressure spray cleaning Ipe'. Allow to dry, then lightly sand off any raised grain with fine sandpaper, wipe down with damp cloth to get the dust, allow the moisture to evaporate, and apply polymerized tung oil for second coat at 50 + degrees F. Do not allow a film to form but wipe off the residual oil that does not soak in and allow to dry. Rags can burn so leave open to the air away from burnables in the even they catch fire. Sand the coat, absorb dust with moist rag, dry, add more polymerized tung oil, wipe off and repeat until desired finish is obtained. Finish is flexible and must be rewiped with polymerized Tung oil a couple times a year.

First I'd like to thank everyone for the info on this site. Second this is an update to my Ipe deck project. I finished the back deck, except for the step, and am working on the front deck now (pics of that someday). Check the link below to see my photos. Weedy, how exactly do you post the photos directly in this message? I don't see any obvious way to do it. I guess you have to write some (fairly simple) html? This project is taking me forever, being a weekend warrior, having 3 young kids, and 2 unfinished bathrooms inside the house. So the staining will have to wait until next year. Should be ok, right? So right now I am having some concerns with the quality of the Ipe I got. Seems ok, but who knows, this is the one-and-only Ipe deck I have ever built. Some pieces are real dark, some are real light. Some are really really hard (dark boards), some are softer (light boards). Some are clear, some have a tiger-like grain to them. Some seem a bit rough when you run your hand up one way, then smooth if you rub the other way. 3 or 4 boards have lots and lots of checks, almost the whole 15 foot length of board. Most of the boards have no checks. I have one board that looks like it will destroy your foot if you walk on it. I think I'll have to replace that board, I don't know how I did not notice it, when I put that board down. It looks like the grain is sort of lifted, and could cause nasty splinters in your foot (See pictures 10 and 11). 3 or 4 few boards seem fine, but have knots in them (pics 13 and 15). Will these spots worsen over time? I bought 1725 linear feet of boards. There are probably six 15-footers that I probably should toss in the dumpster. Maybe six others that are usable but not the greatest. Not really sure about the rest, if it is so-so, good, great, top quality or not. Of course I was assured that the Ipe was top quality, all heart wood clear Ipe, blah blah blah. Would anyone expert here want me to mail them some scrap cuts to examine? Or even better, stop by and look at my deck? Just kidding… The railings. I chickened out on the Ipe railings. No way I get the project done this year. So I did the shiny PVC rail, and put an Ipe rail on top of it. I like it, I think the front deck I will do the same. The pics in that gallery are hi-res, so you can view full screen, or better yet download them and zoom in real close to see the detail. Any info appreciated, Jim. Here is a link that might be useful: Ipe deck gallery

Stanza: I'm a DIY'er and I researched "hidden fasteners" on this forum. The overwhelming advise on the hidden fasteners is "DON'T USE THEM" . Since I did my deck myself, the cost of labor was not an issue. Face screwing and plugging was less expensive than buying pre-grooved IPE and special clips that probably will fail. I'm not concerned with the plugs popping out. Gorilla Glue is plenty strong! Stu

The deck is essentially 16x29. There are two decks, that are each 16x16. However, the one deck surface is one step down and offset from the house 5 feet. Then slid under the upper deck 3 feet. So along the house it is 29 feet. In some sections it sticks out 16 feet from the house, in others 21 feet. Make sense? Thanks...Mike