Use ss screws. J

I hear ss screws won't rust, but are soft and can twist off easily. Comments?

Also... I was going to simply "fill" the old screw holes with a stainable wood filler (minwax) and put new screws in next to the old holes, since many of the screws broke off, when I tried to remove them. I did a test section and the wood filler didn't stain very well... really a light color. So now I have 2 more questions:

1) Is there a stainable wood filler that you are aware of that actually works?

2) I have all the screws removed so I can lift the boards. Is there a magical quick way to remove the broken screws that are sticking out from the beams?

1) Nope

2) Dremel

What is the thickness of the cedar? 2 1/2" is fine for cedar that is 1" thick & less.

This would be a work but probably less than trying to fill the old holes, & will give you a great look...

Use the same holes, use the same size screws (you said 3", right), use a 3/8" diameter countersink, depending on your decking thickness go 1/4" deep & plug the holes w/ cedar plugs.

Countersinking 1/4" deep allows you to go into new wood w/ the same size screws, plugging will give you a great look, & you will not have to mess with filling the old holes.

pressurepros,
How exactly are you referring to using the Dremel? Somehow grinding the old screw(s) out?

mike13,
My problem with the old holes are that many of them still have a broken screw in there, (under the surface of the deck). Are you saying to plug the old holes and then put new screws in next to the plugs? Can I buy these plugs somewhere?

Thanks,
Steve

No, I'm saying to use a counter sink drill bit, 1/4" or 3/8", drill 1/4" down into the old holes, use the same size screws as were there originally, screw the screws in to a depth about 1/4" below the surface of the decking boards, use 1/4" or 3/8" cedar plugs, apply a little glue (Titebond III works well) to the plugs, tap them into the hole w/ the grains aligned, let the glue dry, cut off the top of the plugs close to flush w/ the decking, sand with an orbital sander, & then apply your sealer.

You do not need to use ss screws with this method unless you have ACQ framing which I doubt you do given your deck is 15 years old.

How many screws broke off? If its only a few then drill those & use slightly oversized screws to accomodate what it took to drill them out. If the broken screws are above the surface of the joists then use pliers or visegrips & unscrew them out.

If you try to fill all the old holes w/ a filler I don't think you will like the finished product. If you have to go that route consider flipping the decking boards over so you have smaller holes to fill.

I cut my own plugs from the same stock of wood I use. You'll need a tapered/chamfered plug cutter & a drill press to do that. Otherwise, do a google search on cedar plugs or contact a cedar decking supplier.

mike13,

It's hard to estimate exactly, but I would say there are probably at least 400 screws that broke off.

I'm having a real hard time finding cedar plugs. I've found mahogany... but not sure how that would stain against the cedar.

We've sanded (palm sanders) about 1/2 of the deck already and I can't flip all the boards.. hot tub is sitting on some 16 footers.

At this point, I'm thinking about just countersinking the old screw holes and plugging them. Then drill all new screws in next to the old ones, leaving the screws flush with the surface.

I have a little cutting wheel that attaches and you just cut them off at the surface. Since you mentioned repostioning the screws this will make quicker work than piloting them out and having to refill the holes. When removing a ton of broken screws I have one of my guys use an old drill and he tightens the chuck directly aorund the screw shafts.

Your deck is going to look like it has the measles. Just my opinion. In the worst case scenario you can't find plugs I have mixed some Titebond or Gorilla glue with sawdust to make plugs. On a floor, that can get sloppy. But the advantages are you can use the dust from the wood you have so it is a match in species, mix it with the stain you plan on using, and form the "paste" with the glue.

So how thick are your deck boards?

pressurepros,
Good tip on creating my own filler. I remember we did that in wood shop a long long time ago.

I've abandoned the idea of plugging the old holes and drilling new ones.. I agree it would look pretty "spotty".

I have very little crawl space under the deck and many of my peir blocks have settled (actually the ground has settled). The only way to remedy this is to lift the decking off and shim the 4x4 peirs. Since I've removed all the screws, this is a perfect time to do this. Once the boards are lifted, I'm going to attempt to clamp my drill chuck around the broken screws and remove them, similar to what you have suggested. This is a new drill (DeWalt) with Carbide Jaws, so I'm hoping that works. If not... I guess I'll try vice grips.

Where the screws have broken off at the surface of the beam, I guess I'll just try to angle the new screws in using the old holes.

mike13,

My decking boards are just normal 2x6 cedar boards.

Given they are 2X6, I'd recommend you remove any of the broken screws you can, countersink the old holes 1/4" to 1/2" deep, use 3" or 3 1/2 screws, & plug the holes. As you said angle the screws a little where the broken ones were left.

I would agree that plugging 2 sets (old & new) would potentially look spotty but plugging only the old should look fine (hardly noticeable) as long as you align the grain & seal the whole deck afterwards.

This would hide the screws, protect the wood better, & provide a more professional & finished look.

mike13,

My only question(s) about plugging the holes (where the new screws will be) is... what if I had to lift some of the boards later.....? Or how would I replace the decking in say.. 15 years from now? How would I get to the screws?

Thanks,
Steve

Drill out the plugs, remove the screws.

Think of it this way. If you just surface screw, those areas will hold water which will make your decking fail earlier than if you plug. I don't know if that is 3 yrs, 5yrs, or 10 yrs down the road as it depends on a lot of factors but it will fail earlier.

Good luck.

mike13,

Plugging is still an option. I agree it would look more professional, but I'm having a hard time finding cedar plugs. I've found mahogany plugs for $0.05/ea, but the only cedar plugs I've found are $0.29/ea. I would need around 900 plugs! Yikes!

Do you have a source?

Thanks,
Steve

Back to the screws issue........

I used #8 x 3" last time. As I mentioned previously, I've removed all the screws and am sanding down the entire deck.

Since most of the new screws are going back in the old holes, do you suppose I should use #9 x 3 1/2" or just #9 x 3"? Something else?

Thanks,
Steve

Spart,

I suggested the Deckmaster system on a different page, but the more I read here the more you may want to investigate Deckmaster.com.
It 22" long steel brackets fasten to the sides of the joist and acts to stiffen the tops of the joist, keeps them from sagging and twisting. The 10 x 1 3/4" screws, are angle fastened from the bottom through the bracket to the cedar. You would still need to remove the existing screws from the top, but you should avoid re-screwing into the same screwholes which
have probably woodrotte the fibers from the water penetration around the old screws.

Didn't get any responses by close of business Thursday.. so just went with #9 - 3 1/2" coated screws. Pre-drilled each new hole at a 10 degree angle (to miss any broken screws that were still in the decking). Seemed to work pretty good. The only person who will most likely notice the slight angle of the screw heads is me.

Thanks for all the responses.

Steve