I don't currently have a pool yet, but am about to begin my build and have been doing some extensive research to get me ready for pool maintenance. If you haven't already done so, check out the tips from the poolsolutions.com website (see URL below. I have found this information to be very valuable.

Good Luck!

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Tips from poolsolutions.com

To reduce your CYA level you will need to drain the pool say 40%-50%. This will get you down to 55ppm. It is the only way.

Neilaz,

Thanks, am I correct that my trichlor pacs in my "pool frog" are adding stablizer? If I take it out for a few days that won't help? I don't want to drain my pool if I can avoid it, as water here in Homer Glen, IL is expensive...we have the highest water rates in the State. Also the pool store test print out says 90ppm is the high end of the "acceptable range". I'm only above that by 20ppm. I'm reading stuff on other forums and it sounds like this pool frog is a big waste of money...the pool stores are just taking our moolah....

bandit,
Take ktdave's advice and get smart on basic pool chemistry at poolsolutions.com, poolforum.com, and troublefreepool.com.

You'll find extensive information (as opposed to sales pitches) on the pool frog, nature2ilver systems there. That information combined with your experience should lead you to ditch the frog ASAP.

Neil is right. The only practical way to get rid of CYA is to replace some of your water. You can run with higher CYA but you'll need to maintain higher levels of free chlorine to do so. That chart at this website will tell you how much for your CYA level: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=365 In your case, you need to keep between 8 and 15 ppm free chlorine to ensure a sanitary pool that won't allow algae to grow. If you get algae or if you get a combined chlorine level above 0.5 ppm, you'll need to shock to 25 ppm to get rid of the problem.

You need to find another chlorine source other than trichlor. As you now know, continuing to use that will continue to raise your CYA. Since your calcium is low you can use calcium hypochlorite. It will add calcium while it chlorinates. That's only a temporary solution though, as you'll eventually have enough calcium in your water. By the way, is your calcium really too low? What is it? Is your pool vinyl or gunite? If vinyl, pretty much any level of calcium from 0 to 500 ppm is OK. If gunite, you probably need to keep it between 200-400 ppm (though that can vary somewhat dependent on your pH and alkalinity levels). So, eventually, you're going to have to use a different chlorine source or resign yourself to periodically draining and replacing a large part of your water. While that's certainly an acceptable strategy, it's a bigger PITA than most of us want to deal with. The chlorine source with the least number of side effects is sodium hypochlorite. That's also known as liquid chlorine or bleach. Plain, unscented laundry bleach (5.25% or 6% sodium hypochlorite) is usually the cheapest source though you may be able to find 12.5% liquid chlorine at a pool store or Home Depot or Lowes somewhat cheaper. To give you some idea how to dose with bleach, a gallon of 6% will add 6 ppm chlorine in 10,000 gallons of water.

Get a good test kit so you don't have to rely on the pool store that's already given you suspect advice. The best have an FAS-DPD chlorine test. The Taylor K-2006 is one as is the one sold through the troublefreepool.com website (that one is based on the Taylor K-2006). Any way you go on a test kit, test your own water frequently (pH and chlorine daily; CYA, calcium, and alkalinity monthly or so) if you want to avoid problems.

Best of luck.

Kurtv,
Thanks for the good advice, I wish I had found these forums years ago, I realize now that I have wasted over $1,000 on the pool frog and its associated problems over the last 5 years....it was part of the "package" we purchased 6 years ago and when you don't know ANYTHING about pools, they see a sucker comin'... Having read this forum and the others, I have soaked up like a sponge the truth about water chemistry and pool ownership, more in the last 3 hours than in the last 3 Years! I now know what steps to follow and have learned accordingly. I appreciate all the good advice yourself and others have offered. MY rear-end hurts from kicking myself...LOL
I'll be swimming by Saturday I predict!

Mr. Bandit,
Don't kick yourself too hard, we all need some direction every now and then. Also, go to www.troublefreepool.com, there are a lot of helpful people over there as well. I find myself going back-and-forth between these sites constantly just to get all the info I can.

Dave

I agree absolutely with ktdave; don't beat yourself up at all. You're on the right path now and will have complete control of your water in a matter of a few weeks.

OMG, I'm sooo tired of this....Okay, latest test:
CYA is down to 95 after draining below the return. BTW, this is a 24' round AG pool. Put in the metal-out to lower the copper PRIOR to draining. STUPID! Managed to add back plenty of copper with my "fresh" hose water.... STUPID! Added another bottle of metal out (copper is back up 1.29), and realize CYA may still be too high at 95. Is it safe to swim with high CYA/chlorine? The weather should pick up in the next couple of days and I need to know if we should wait to swim. Is more draining on the horizon? Thanks

"Is it safe to swim with high CYA/chlorine?"
You don' say what your chlorine levels are (free and combined). But, if you're following Ben's Best Guess chart (link provided in my first post)for free chlorine,then yes, it's safe to swim.