somehow I think, no one wants/needs wood stove ashes?

I think you should have gone with a wood stove, your garage is ideal for that,brick walls, small size, and no insulation up top. I have 25'x22'x8' garage with only insulated walls and lots draft from my big garage door. I use 30"x17"x20" wood stove and within 40 mins I can work very comfi and it gets better as time passes. I installed my chimney by myself and found it very easy to do if you are handy with a miter or skill saw and own a drill. It was my first installation and hardly any challange to it. I wouldn't consider any other type of heating in my garage. Used wood stoves are cheap and easy to find.You don't need to spend more than a 100-150 for a good used one. The chimney, you buy as a kit ,which will give eveything you need to install it up to code. The most important part is building a frame for the chimney support. The rest is just putting stuff together. The basics of operating "safely" a wood stove is something you learn in a week and in time you will get better and become real good at it. You should install a damper in your stove pipe, for better use of the heat produced by the stove and a fan behind the stove will help you alot. If you or anyone else need more info just ask. Vic

Percieved comfort factors in temperature, air movement and humidity level. You can heat your home to 72 degrees but feel cold due to air movement greater than 50 feet per minute. The fan you refer to is good for moving stratified air, but you really want to destratify the air. Using paddle fans would destratify the air keeping the room temperature more even. The heat will mix with other rooms better. The use of high speed on paddle fans with 8'-9' ceilings would make the room uncomfortable due to air movement greater than 50 feet per minute. Also paddle fans would add value to your home and the wall fan could devalue your home to the next buyer that may be wondering whats wrong here? Wood stoves are great, but the heat can stratify. Stay Warm! Not too warm Dan Martyn

I am not an 18 year veteran of the solar attic however I had a PCS3 from 2002 till last year. I have owned a Solar Attic system. I purchased it from solar Attic directly around 2002 I owned rental property so I had the advantage of having the maintenance people to assist me in the Installation. I talked directly with the engineer/owner/designer of the system. He was and has been very helpful over the years. As a matter of fact I emailed with him just a few day ago. OUR INSTALLATION We build a pan 4 inches deep and 6 inches larger than the PCS3 system all the way around. We equipped it with a 2 inch drain which we eventually put a cut off on in that we had a float switch system cutoff that was in parallel with the emergency cut off in side the PCS3. The reason we put a cut off and an additional emergency float switch was that the longer I thought about it having the system pump 25000 gallons of water into the catch pan with a two inch drain would not be able to remove water fast enough than it would be better to just have the system shut down so the issue could be corrected. We mounted the unit about 5 feet off of the attic decking to get it as high and in the hottest area as possible. That installation we did with rigid 2" pvc We had 2 90 degree elbows and a total of 5 joints that got the water out of the attic. In the beginning I had some of the same concerns that have been brought up here about a possible leak however considering the fact that almost all of the water pipes in this house are PVC as are 99% of all of the water pipes in all of the houses built in america are PVC and the fact that the water pressure in the solar attic system is as I understand it less than the pressure that your home water system has a leak is not very likely. OK, so here we go. We had to pump the water up 2 stories. In that this was a close loop system with strategic check valves our concern for the 1.5 HP (up rated) pump being able to move the water was quickly retired as soon as we started the system. No problem. Great flow. The quality of the product was good. The unit was well designed, thought out and put together. The only moving part on the system was a GE electric motor that could be manually adjusted from low to medium to high speed. This would change the flow of the air over the heat exchanger. I came set on medium an after 5 years of messing with the speed it is now set on medium. We used their electronic control system which consisted to a electric control valve and an electronic controller that detected the temperature in the attic and the temperature of the pool water. If the attic got to be 5 to 10 degrees warmer than the pool water the unit would come on and stay on till the water got warmer than the set point. We had system on a time and regardless of how the system was set we turned the pool pump off at 11PM and on at 9AM In 2015 we sold that house and the solar attic system went along with it. Our new home has a slightly smaller pool and an electric heat pump from heat siphon(325Kbtu) system. We are thinking of installing a solar attic PCS3 in conjunction with the electric heat pump. The cost to run the PCS3 is about $10 per month for the GE Fan motor. My electric bill for the Heat Siphon is $300 plus per month. As I am writing this the time is 2:36P EST in Atlanta Georiga. The outside temperature is 73F Degrees and the attic Temperature is 105F. At this rate we would have in our house that had the Solar attic system have turned the system on at this point. This would have started the heating process. Unlike electric or gas systems where the heat will start immediately the solar attic system will raise the temperature however this is over a period of time. If you installed a solar attic system in July and started it up on July 4th you probably would not see the water temperature rise quickly. I would say it would talk a week or more to bring the temperature to its set point. My current pool is a free form pebble tec with about 15,000 gals of water. With a solar attic system if it operates as my last system did I will have the largest hottub in the north Atlanta are. It can and will bring the water temperature to 95 degrees. My wife likes warm water. As I see it the biggest draw back is the price. If the system were priced in the $2000 range, for the basic system and $2500 range for the full electronic system this would be a product everyone would have like a salt system or LED lighting. A $2000 adder to you Aquilink system is small dollars with a great reward.