I probably wouldn't add all the lime. Your pH is basically right in the middle of the range that Tifway 419 likes to grow in. A little wouldn't hurt, as most rain now a days is acidic, but I would go easy on it. To determine the other amounts you need to convert acres to square feet. There are 43,560 sq. ft/acre. For P, you have 1.42 lbs/2000 sq.ft, and you need 4.6 lbs/2000 sq. ft. So you need to add 3.2 lbs of P to your lawn. Since the superphosphate you bought is 14% available, you need to add 22.85 lbs of it to your lawn. Your K levels are higher than the recommended, so no need to worry about K. Most fertilizers list on the bag what setting you should put your spreader on to properly distribute the product. If this is absent, then divide your fertilizer in half, and do a little trial and error with your spreader setting. Try to err on the side of not applying enough, and do the yard in a north/south direction. Once you do the whole yard, you should have some product left in the spreader. Then add the other half and increase the spreader opening a bit and do the yard in the east/west direction.

In general terms - it looks like nobody has down much with the area for a while. Low on pretty much everything that a human would add. To get back on track, you will want to Lime and use a "balanced" fertilizer for the next couple of applications. You could follow their recommendations or just use some cheap 10-10-10 (slow release) at 10lbs per 1000 sq ft. Do that for 2-3 applications and then retest next year. By then, your lime will have had a chance to do its thing and you can see where you are. After you are close to the "optimal" range, you should get onto a schedule of 1 "balanced" fertilization per year and the rest "normal" higher nitrogen fertilizers.

This is interesting! Your soil has a bit of a split personality, so we have to treat the front and back differently. It happens sometimes, particularly on slopes, or where a lot of soil was brought in originally to create the grade. As to where the division lines are between the soils, that may or may not be clear. Just do the best you can. Where recommendations go on both the front and back, I've taken care to keep them together. Where they don't, the chips fall where they may. EC 14.5/21.1: Both are moderately heavy soils, and I'd expect a lot of silt in both. The back may include some clay, although I wouldn't expect a vast amount. Both soils hold a lot of resources (back more than front) and are more resistant to change than the average. pH: Always a symptom, never a cause. We'll deal with both individually under Ca, Mg, and K. Ultimately, your natural pH balance looks like it'll be a bit lower than what I tell most people--6.3 or so--but with an EC like that, I'm not terribly worked up about hitting it quickly because that won't happen. OM 3.4/5.0: Fair in the front, good in the back. Certainly mulch mow and consider organic feedings; although good is good, it isn't excellent. Higher levels of OM mean more water retention and less watering. Sulfur 6/11: Both are pretty normal, although the front is kind of trim. It doesn't matter as I've made recommendations below for a sulfate based potassium, which will boost sulfur levels a little bit. Neither is deficient. Phosphorus 111/279: The target for you is 200. The front is low, the back is great (the extra P simply gives you margin against usage and leaching). The recommendations are below. Calcium 71%/45%: A little high in the front (but nothing to worry about), but extremely low in the back. Recommendations below under the Back section. Magnesium 17%/12%: Both are fine and in the optimal range. No magnesium required or desired as it tightens soils (hence the calcitic lime recommendation below; cheap lime contains a lot of magnesium in addition to being slow, far less effective, and overall more expensive when you have to correct the problems). Potassium 0.7%/0.7%: Borderline deficient. Most garden stores or landscape shops will be glad to order potassium sulfate for you if you ask (or you can get it over the Internet but shipping is a killer). Recommendations below. Sodium 0.25%/0.25%: Perfect, Low sodium levels are desirable, even though this looks like it's off the normal scale. Most Minor Elements: Fine, except for boron and copper. I'm not inclined to adjust copper this year with everything else going down. Normally, I'd ignore boron this year as well, but in this case we can't. I've included a few words about iron below as well. Boron 0.23/<0.2: Deficient. We use Milorganite to apply this as the amounts are very small (0.2 PPM is 200 parts per billion). Target is 0.7 PPM. In a wheelbarrow or something like, and adjusting for your 1600 square feet, dump a full bag of Milorganite. Add 4.5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax (laundry section of your grocery store) to the Milo. Spray very lightly with water as from a hand-held spray bottle (the hose even on light spray will wet it too much). Mix. Spray occasionally to damp the Milorganite and make the 20 Mules stick. Keep mixing. Apply the entire bag to your 1,600 square feet by setting your spreader low and criss-crossing several times. The Milorganite will also give you a nice boost of iron--making the lawn greener--and a nice gentle feeding with organic nitrogen. Iron: 175/201: Both are fine, definitely not deficient, but may not produce the best color in the lawn--particularly in the back as the calcium and potassium hit. At any time you like, you can apply Milorganite at bag rate (your full lawn will use about 2/3 of a bag) to gently feed your lawn and apply iron for deeper color. Front Recommendations (fescue): May 1: Apply 3 pounds potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. May 15th: Apply any starter fertilizer (high second number like 18-24-6) at the bag rate. June 1: Follow the above prescription for boron. September 1: Apply any starter fertilizer at the bag rate. September 15: Apply 3 pounds potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. October 1: Apply any starter fertilizer at the bag rate. Follow the above prescription a second time for boron. Growth Stoppage: Apply any high nitrogen fertilizer at the bag rate (don't use starter at this time). The date on this varies, but is usually November 15 give or take a lot. Back Recommendations (Bermuda): General: Bermuda should be fed monthly throughout the growing season with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. That won't interact with anything except the calcium (plus potassium to a lesser extent, but I'm not worried about that). Try to leave at least 1 good rainfall (or irrigation) and 2 weeks between feeding and calcium. April 15: Apply Mag-I-Cal or Encap calcitic lime at 5 pounds per thousand square feet; don't buy cheap lime as it's ineffective and will mis-balance magnesium levels. May 1: Apply 3 pounds potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. June 1: Follow the above prescription for boron. September 15: Apply 3 pounds potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. October 1: Follow the above prescription a second time for boron. October 15: Apply Mag-I-Cal or Encap calcitic lime at 4 pounds per thousand.

80 lbs / 5 k sq ft = 16 pounds per thousand square feet. That's a totally normal level of application, so I very strongly doubt there's any problem with that! (And we already know I always take the safest route, so you know I'm not being cavalier about it). Even going heavy by hand broadcast (something I do myself) shouldn't be an issue at all, but as you noted it can mat down the grass a bit. Where that happens, you can usually scratch it up a little bit to get the grass to stand and the alfalfa (or whatever you're using) to settle. Overapps of an organic are possible, but difficult. I mostly use soybean meal. In bad sections, I run over it with the spreader at 15 pounds per thousand, then usually take handfuls or double handfuls and spread them around in the area as well. Thirty per K? That's probably about right. Very tiny but very blank bits might get a whole lot more than that. Then if there's any left in the spreader at the end, I often run over the really bad sections again...and now we're up to 45 per K of soybean meal in some spots. They're too small to generate any real scent and I never notice it, but it does help the bluegrass fill back in at jig speed. The decay colors can be interesting, though!