So I took the cheapie liner I have and washed it in the bulky cycle of our HE washer. It got it very clean (I was shocked) and I hung it back up when it was still damp. I then ran the bathroom exhaust fan for about 30 minutes to help dry it. This morning it was fine but still pretty crumpled looking but I assume it will eventually fall out and look better. I noticed a 1.5" crack in it but I don't know if it was already there before washing but I don't think so cuz I would have noticed it. The heavy duty one in the main bath which has been there for about 6 months has no mold on it. And that is good cuz there is no way it could be washed due to its bulkiness. I think I'm going to order a water-resistant fabric one that is highly rated on Amazon that I will just wash monthly.

Something bad happened that actually was a very, very good thing... After following breiaj's instructions to the letter, two of the floor tiles in the bathroom popped up a couple of days later and wouldn't stay stuck. When I pulled them up the rest of the way, I found a leak! If it hadn't been for those tiles unsticking, we wouldn't have found that leak until it did a LOT more damage - like made a big ole mess of the kitchen ceiling. So here's one way in which vinyl tile might actually be BETTER than sheet! A few notes WRT breiaj's instructions... I admit to dropping back to $3.99 paintbrushes because they became unworkable so quickly - the glue would start to dry up in the bristles while we were working and it would become more like a paddle than a brush! We didn't have any problems with bristle loss. 2" flat-ended paintbrushes were just the right size, a wider brush seemed like it would save time but was really more awkward to work with, especially with cut pieces. Don't bother wearing rubber gloves in hopes of keeping your hands clean, they stick to the tile's adhesive and to the adhesive you're spreading on and just generally irritate the crap out of you. :-) The adhesive - Armstrong's anyway - is kind of hard on your hands though, and contrary to the label does not wash off with soap and water! We ended up using a "painter's wipes" product we had on hand to clean up our hands about every hour because we would get too sticky to work effectively, and our fingertips were pretty raw and sore afterward. Even though it costs a bit more it's a lot easier to work with the smaller containers of adhesive using this brush-on method, because the bucket gunks up something awful. If you're laying more than about 100 square feet, seriously consider coughing up for the vinyl tile cutter (homedepot.com has one for about $50, or you can rent a superduper heavy-duty one for about the same for a weekend)... scoring and snapping with a utility knife sucks after a while, it's slow and hard on your hands. Make sure you have a comfortable utility knife no matter what though, and a LOT of blades. Stanley makes a really nice knife in their FatMax line, with a rubber-cushioned handle. A jamb or undercut saw ($15) makes dealing with those door jambs SO much easier than trying to cut the tile around them! We removed the baseboards; we were going to replace them with vinyl cove but the damn stuff just would not cooperate so we patched the baseboards with wood filler galore and put them back, and it looked SO much neater than butting the tiles up to the baseboards. deeje, I've checked around with several manufacturers of vinyl tile and the biggest deal WRT moisture is not to slop around too much water when you mop - contrary to popular belief, you don't need a gallon bucket full of near-boiling water and some vile chemical to get a floor clean! Try a well-squeezed-out sponge or terrycloth/microfiber mop instead of a sopping string or rag mop instead. Those microfiber cleaning cloths fit on Swiffer handles really well, if like me you are too cheap to buy the Swiffer cloths. :-) ctaylors6, the instructions in the Cryntel box agree with the Lowes guy - wash well-secured vinyl very well, rinse well, allow to dry thoroughly. I'd use something like TSP that would destroy any gloss on the existing floor. Our vinyl was trashed so we couldn't leave it, so I can't speak to the adhesive method on top of vinyl. We still haven't gotten the kitchen floor laid down yet. We had to tear out some of the subfloor and replace it, and then do a lot of leveling and sanding on the rest, got diverted with a day of electrical work, and to top it all off DH has been sick as a dog. :-( Cross your fingers for this weekend!

Of course if someone buys a slab of stone they are going to think they bought a slab of stone. Common sense. I don't see or know people assuming they can store leftover material at a shop's warehouse (for free) or they are demanding (free) delivery of a large heavy remnant. All remnants are not large or unmanageable and some, say for a vanity or small table top, could just be loaded in someone's truck and stored at their house. It's really up to the customer if they have, in fact, paid for a whole slab. Someone here had a series of cutting boards made. I am willing to bet they expected to (pay) for it. And maybe they want the leftovers for their beauty, not their decreasing monetary value, so incurring a delivery charge for larger pieces is a nonissue. Whether the apparently cheap and ignorant customer ever uses it or not is really not anyone else's business. If the shop prices based on keeping leftover material, that should be disclosed so there is no confusion and people are on the same page who owns what and what the options are otherwise. There is really nothing unusual or demanding about such expectations and communication. It should be understood and in writing as a business' s SOP. People buy a slab ... they think it's theirs unless told otherwise. Fair enough assumption, imo.

“He forgot to mention granite needs to be sealed, repeatedly.” This comment indicates a lack of knowledge. I mentioned above that I have 3 different granites in 3 kitchens over about a 25-year period. I never sealed any of them. In 25 years. They looked brand new all the time. There are a thousand granites, and a person cannot make a statement like the above comment as if all the thousand behave the same. Many granites do not need sealing ever. Many granites need sealing once a year, a 5-minute process. There are a handful that need sealing several times a year, and they behave more like marble, with Kashmir White and its relatives being the most known of this type. Like any choice in your kitchen - cabinets, appliances, fixtures, flooring - a homeowner needs to do a little research before plunking down their money. As Belaria mentioned, the OP should narrow down her choices, and then do research on those choices’ maintenance needs. My granites’ only maintenance in 25 years has been to clean with some dish soap and wipe dry. A choice between Quartz and granite counters really boils down to an aesthetic one. They look and feel entirely different, and each material has a myriad of colors and patterns. You said you don’t like a busy pattern - while there are a number of granites that have little or no pattern, most do have colors and patterns. The Quartz choices definitely have many more patternless offerings, and so you should focus there.