I really cannot explain why AgriFab recommends a min hp rating for a non-PTO driven attachment. Maybe someone else has that answer. No issue with you being female. Females ask questions, guys learn the hard way. When's the last time you heard a woman say "Watch this!"? I hope this isn't demeaning, but a lawn tractor is like a small handheld electric mixer and a garden tractor is lake a KitchenAid countertop mixer. The handheld works fine for what it was designed for like whipping eggwhites or batter for 6 pancakes, the countertop will do that too, but it is also built to mix bread dough. You may be able to mix one or two loafs of bread dough with the handheld (if you don't break your wrist), but eventually (sooner than later) the handheld is going to break. Not because of the motor size but because the rest of its parts and gears. HP isn't the controlling factor with tractors, the power and strength is also in the transmission, axels and frame. There are plenty of 12hp Wheelhorse tractors out there that will outpull most 22, 24, or even 28hp lawn tractors to Moscow and back. Is your JD 100 an automatic or do you shift gears like a manual transmission?

You say tiles but you didn't clarify if they were vinyl tiles or ceramic tiles. Vinyl tiles: scrape the substrate and the back of the tiles as well as possible. A little sanding the back of the tiles to get as much of the old residue as you can. Contact cement. Lightly paint the back of the tile and then the substrate( lightly, just a fine film) let those sit for approx. 10 minutes and then stick the tile, making positive you have it exactly where you want it before you touch the two adhesive coated surfaces together. Ceramic: Remove the thinset on the substrate, along with any surrounding grout. Use cement mortar, not premixed mastic and mix up some mud. Set your tiles spacing it and pushing down to get the air out. If the tile sits low, you need more mud under the tile. If the tile sits high, push down and squeeze the excess thinset out of the grout joints and use a popsicle stick to remove the thinset in the joints. A wet sponge to wipe any thinset mess, with a bucket of water or a sink close by to wring the sponge out often. Let it sit for a day. Next day scrape any thinset you missed out of the edges of the grout joints, vacuum, and then wipe down with a wet sponge. Mix your grout and let it sit. %-10 minutes, remix the grout and get your grout floats and start packing the joints. Let that sit for about 10-15 minutes and using a clean wrung out sponge, wipe down and form the grout lines and remove excess grout from the tile surface. Let it sit for another 14-20 minutes Using clean water and the sponge well wrung out each time. Wipe the tiles down in one direction, one swipe. Flip the sponge over and go right back over that swath. Rinse and wring out the sponge and do another swipe the same way. Wait about 10-15 minutes and do that same thing again. Let it dry for about 5-10 minutes and then take a dry clean towel and buff off any haze left on the tiles. Kinda like waxing a car, and removing the wax. AustinFloorguy

I would rough up the backer with a grinder (or just put some notches in it), then use thinset one more time. You'll have more surface area that way, and it will be "cleaner" so the thinset adheres. I'd probably replace the soapdish, too, since they're cheap and will give you a clean surface w/ more space for the thinset. After it cures, seal the perimeter with adhesive caulk. This post was edited by homebound on Mon, Jun 3, 13 at 9:34

"Old work" or "remodel boxes" come in different flavors from various vendors. Some are a pretty much full size devcie box with exanding screw 'wings' to anchor them (together with the top and bottom plaster wings). Other old work boxes have a clipped upper and lower rear corners and internal box clamps. The clipped corners allow clearance for the cables when the box is pushed back into the wall. There are probably some other hanging around, but those are the two I see most commonly. Using "Madison", "Hold-It Box Supports", etc with a regular device box works well also if you know how to get the cables into the box after pushing it in the wall (see the post above). The problem with simply replacing the loose boxes is getting the old one out. You need to cut the fasteners holding it to the stud. A sawzall with a longer blade can usually be worked in beside the box to either cut it free of a stud strap, or cut the fasteners holding it to the stud. It does run the risk of damaging the drywall, and even nicking cables that may be tight to the stud with staples near the box. It is often worth the effort in plaster walls since repairs are more difficult then drywall (AC cable is also more resistant to minor knocks than NM if the blade touches the cable). To simply tighten up a box that is pulling out of the wall the 'Madison' type clamps work very well. You need to be sure to bend them so they are snug against the inside wall of the box to prevent contact with the receptacle screws, but you can get rear wire receptacles (Cooper) that have covers over the screws.