Yikes - i gotta go (have my coat on, I don't know why I checked back after emailing Y about DD's dance class tomorrow). Merillat mentioned sanding sealer that is only used when sanding soft woods - it stiffens the wood fibers so you can sand smoother. Not usually used on oak. Sealcoat is a "sanding sealer" b/c it can be used that way but really I don't want you to sand the veneer much at all. I am telling you to use it (if you want) b/c I found it made the oak a little smoother w/o totally filling in the grain like a grain filler, and it is harder than poly, will make the finish more durable than poly alone w/o putting on lots of thick (multiple thin coats) poly. you thin (and clean) shellac with denatured alcohol. You can let excess dry in container and then throw it out. Rags can be thrown out (in small quantities) when thoroughly dry. Sealed in water you'd have to check with town about hazardous waste (same with leftover stain, paint). That's why I have multiple cans sitting in my garage LOL. Clean the shellac brush by pouring alcohol into clean PB jar, swishing the brush around - you can pour the cloudy shellac into your metal can with lots of water for disposal, or pour it into another container and let it evaporate. Pour more alcohol into jar, swish until clear. then wash brush in mild soap and water, hang bristles down to dry. It may dry a *little* stiff, but you should be able to soften it by flexing bristles with your hand. if they "crack" rather than flex, you've still got shellac in the brush and need to clean with alcohol again. you *can* just stain and apply the polycrylic if you want to, straight out of the can I'd do 2-3 coats (which may end up looking plasticky but you can try wiping off the last coat like I did on my island trim), if you use the wipeon stuff you'll need 6 coats minimum, and you're *supposed* to sand b/t coats to get it to stick so I'm really leary of telling you to sand that much. You can do 1 coat of regular Sealcoat over stain, sand *lightly*, then 2 coats rolled on poly (barely sand b/t coats). That *should* be enough protection - at least until you have kids and they kick their feet against the island LOL. I'll check back after 1 pm.

Well, the invoice only says "D4S," which I understand means "dressed four sides," similar to S4S or "smooth four sides." The local company website says: "We stock only 100% heartwood, rich reddish brown." I assumed that would mean premium or 1st quality. Their website displays the Ironwoods brand ipe logo. I believe I recognize the piece with sapwood - the very light blond streak on the edge (3rd board from the top in the photo below)? There's another board (not pictured) with something similar. Should I replace that board - would I run into trouble with rot down the road? Also, one board is already checking all along its length - particularly within lighter colored radial grain patterns. Would it be wise to replace this, or is this acceptable? Another board I noticed today has a very sharp lengthwise edge extending about 5 feet, as if it hadn't been eased. I wish my contractor had noticed that before installing it. Thinking about popping it out and replacing. Practically 25% of the boards delivered had unacceptable flaws on both sides. I paid more per lineal foot than East Teak and Advantage Lumber had quoted ... but I liked the idea of going with a local, reputable company and the total came out about the same since I saved on shipping. I'm going tomorrow to pick out new boards to replace the unusable ones they selected and delivered to us. Any advice on recognizing better quality boards? I'll try and stay away from the lightest colored ones and any with obvious defects (knots, gouges, machine skip, etc.).

Renee you must be overwhelmed with all of these comments. Your countertops are GORGEOUS, so I do hope you keep them. Sophie's suggestion to stain the floors is well worth looking into. For what it is worth my suggestion for your backsplash is to go with a simple solid tile in a lighter color that coordinates with the countertop. I would suggest you not go too small with the tile- 3x6 to 4x12 would be a good size to stick with. You want to avoid too much movement in the backsplash as the counter (and the floor) have quite a bit of movement and you do not want them competing. Let the countertop be the star of the show. Good luck and let us know how it all ends up for you.

@ tqtqtbw - Good question. I have no idea if it will "go" with our interior design "choices". We have no decorative style per se unless utilitarian, hand-me-down furnishings and function-over-aesthetics is considered style. As a couple, we're busier than most - moreso now with 3 little ones. We did buy 2 paintings at an art festival once, but have never given time to interior design. I don't think I'm hopeless, but I am somewhat clueless. Have pity on me as I stumble through this forum! Have never considered purchasing a new handrail. That seems like another can of worms to open! Where should I look? Budget is the primary consideration at the moment, since I'm trying to replace flooring in our living room (and probably kitchen), and take out part of a wall in the kitchen in the very near future.