Take a look at a product called Permaporch manufactured by HBG Columns. It's made with cellular PVC (similar to Azek). The ballusters are solid (not hollow) and the posts are reinforced with aluminum. I've looked at most composite and vinyl rails and this is the only one that doesn't have that shiny, glossy, sheen that makes them all look so fake. One major drawback though, it's very pricey.

Thanks John. The wood on the deck is all Ipe and the pics were taken prior to staining. Last year I used Woodzotic to finish, this year I let it go. Since Woodzotic is no longer available, next year I'll probably use WoodTux or Armstrong Clark after a good cleaning. The edging is a cut piece of Ipe routered on the end and screwed in and plugged. It really gives the deck a more finished look hiding all the end cuts. My contractor used Tiger Claw hidden fasteners, I believe the TCG type. These are made for hardwoods and are stainless steel with an anodized black finish. I know the concensus on this board is to stay away from hidden fasteners but my contractor insisted he has had great success with the TCG's.I do know he didn't purchase pre-grooved Ipe, but rather made biscuit cuts in the boards where the fasteners attach. The deck is now two years old and I haven't had any problems. It is holding up great so far and I love it. Scott

I'm in the same boat- looking for a composit railing w/ a wood top rail ( hate painting pickets). I just found two products that look good but I have no idea about how they will hold up. Fairway makes a railing system w/ a real spanish cypress toprail. And Monarch makes a vinyl rail w/ a simulated tigerwood or simulated mahogany top rail called chameleon. Looked real purty a Home Depot. Maybe we can get some input from the pros.

srercrc is going to think I am picking on him but I wouldn't use cedar if you are going to paint. New growth cedar is horrible with respect to rot. A small amount of moisture will rot it right to the core (and quickly). Why not use the cheapest material (PTP) and properly prep and stain it with a solid. Solid stains offer breathability whereas paint does not. On verticals you should be fine with keeping it clean and maintained like sre recommended. I would guess every 4-5 years you would need to recoat.