madtripper, The point I was trying to make was the difference in pressure. One shot from a blow gun at 125 psi would empty the glass instantly. But that's because the liquid in the glass is in a small, confined space. The people in the irrigation industry mostly rent tow-behind compressors that put out 125 to 200 CFM when they winterize systems for their customers. They know from experience that high volumes of air blowing through the underground pipes will clear 99.9% of the water in a matter of seconds. Small CFM compressors cannot sustain even 90 psi for very long. The pressure drops off quickly to the cut-in point also because these compressors have very small air receivers. And the larger the hose diameter you use, the faster this happens and the harder it is for the pump to play catch-up. As air is blown into the water lines using one of these little compressors, water does indeed escape. However, as the water escapes, the level of the water in those pipes also drops and that creates an airspace above the water level which allows the air to take the easy route in finding an exit. The initial blast of air gets the much heavier water moving in the pipes. As the water moves along, it creates a space that must be taken up by the air. Water is not compressable. Air is. You need to keep this now-moving-water moving at a rate that is sufficient to have it rise vertically and exit the sprinkler heads in totality. If the water pools in the elbow at the bottom of the sprinkler head, then it will freeze and break the elbow. Next spring, it's repair time. Therefore, it is difficult to ensure that all the water has been removed from the system when using small CFM compressors. And since the whole object of the exercise is to remove the water to prevent freeze damage, then using a compressor with adequate volume (CFM) seems appropriate. To me, this akin to saying the following. I need to winterize my cottage but I didn't buy enough RV antifreeze, so do you think I will be OK if I put only half as much anti-freeze in each toilet as written in the instructions? You asked a question. Several people have told you how the Pros do it. It's your system, your dime. If you believe that you can blow it out with your compressor, then by all means, go for it. The proof is something that will be found next spring and every spring thereafter. Underground systems can be simple or quite complex. If you can simplify the system by isolating branches, then that might work. You have the luxury of time that a PRO does not. He needs to get in and get out quick in order to keep the cost down. To a degree, it's an apple and oranges thing. But either way, if water remains, so does the potential for damage.

Congratulations on your new purchase. As for the Rinnai, Rinnai makes a great product and while it can take care of a home with many people and more demand, it's even better for you and your husband because you will only be paying to heat the water you are actually using. Most concerns/complaints anyone have with a Rinnai can generally be tracked back to improper installation, most often being the sizing of the gas line- other than that, maybe once or twice a year we may get a call to 'flush the heat exchanger' (which for us has normally been due to construction locally getting more debris in the lines and getting sucked into the system, also clogging the filter, but I digress). As for the 3/4" lines, judging by the size of your home and the description you have 2, maybe 2-1/2 baths (?), either way, 3/4" coming into the house is perfectly fine. Remember you can only serve 2 fixtures on 1 1/2" line while you're doing your distribution and you'll be fine. =-)

Quote; The feeling I get is that some plumbers don't recommend them as they feel it is work taken from them" It would seem that some ppl think plumbers and tradesmen of all varieties just sit around the shop and wait for the phone to ring so they can jump in the truck and come running like a firemen. Tradesmen cannot afford to have ppl sitting around for even a few minutes and our work is generally scheduled months in advance. The truth of the matter is that most of the plumbers I know don't even want your medial 10 minute job that could have been done as a DIY project or done by a local handyman. Secondly, code prohibits just cutting and capping those lines. Code does not permit any dead end lines longer than 12" so if you plan to discontinue the use of the line you need to trace back to where it ties into the main run and cut at cap it at that point. You stated that you were unable to solder the line because of standing water or steam in the line. The solution: if there is standing water in the line, drain the line, and if in doing so you have to drain the entire house system, then that is just what you have to do. Now in regards to sharkbite fittings....You are correct that sharkbite fitting are new to the industry and there remains a reluctance to using them, but that reluctance is not because they are new. It is because soldering is just too easy and too cheap to mess with expensive fittings. In addition, sharkbite fittings are only marginally accepted by some local residential codes and even then they are generally not to be used in a concealed location. I would suggest you drain the line and leave a couple faucetts open to vent off any steam pressure that might develope from residual water. Next, cut the copper and clean it thorougly with emery cloth, then wipe the dust off with a clean dry rag and do not touch the clean surface with your finger. Apply flux with a clean flux brush then put a cap on and apply the heat to the cap just until you see the flux begin to bubble. Pull the heat away and apply solder and you should have it sealed. Believe me, a child can do it.

quote" Use grout and thinset. If applied right it will works as well, and look better than the marine epoxy. "quote I'll second Racket's reply to the question. I've done it this way all my life, and it's the proper way to perform the repair. See ya, Kelly