ATO is total junk, readily available is an intersting way of thinking. Nothing will alleviate the negatives of the product.

Idea!!!!>>>> sand the table top to 120 grit,use Watco Danish Oil, build coats inbetween 320 sanding. Dont expect this finish to hold up exposed to the weather. For what your talking bout it will make you happy. J

I may regret it, but I gave ATO a shot - Are strippers paint-safe, or do I need to worry about removing or damaging the paint if I need to remove the finish on the Ipe later?

Wow that looks great. Don't forget to update this a while down the road. Thx.

O Man,I dident know you were talking about a Kamato Table!!! Now known as the Big Green Egg. Welcome, but be advised cooking with one has a Cult Effect,next thing you know you will be travling to all the Cook Outs.

I have been smoking duck,grilling fish, doing T-bones on my Kamato for many years mine was back in the day and still going real strong. J

John, I didn't think anyone would understand what it was or why it wouldn't burn to the ground :)

The Egg is wrapped in that blue tarp right now. I made the table about the same dimensions as the factory table, and have one of their table covers coming in the mail.

One of the reasons I went with the Egg was the great online forum they have - a lot like some of the forums here on gardenweb. Lots of useful information.

So far we've made ribs and steaks. I'm going to do my first spatchcock chicken tomorrow.

I'm going to wait a while for the finishes to cure before I 'mount' the egg. Putting heat to fresh oil like that seems like it might be bad.

John, I'd still like to hear your input on cleaning a piece like this and if it effects your finish recommendations, I'll definitely take it into account when it's time to maintain this.

One of those Guys on that Forum got me in contact with this strange adhesive when I needed to repair my Kamato Great bunch of Folks.

With that double ceramic structure the outside never really gets to hot to touch and it looks like you have the hole big enough to allow air space. One thing I did with mine the wooden handle gets a little too hot sometimes so I wrapped alum foil around it.

With the finish ato looks good at the git go but its not all that good on the recoat, it tends to get kinda sticky. And of course no way are you going to use a stripper/acid wash on that cool thing. If you stay with that finish just babey it along. As the ato fades try a light sanding say 120 grit use the stuff like polish very light coats wiped on and off.

Watco dainish oil and I have a long history I have pushed it like I have twp Its a hand rub finish and will go over and melt into a lot of other finish products. Now you Folks at home dont try this>>> With some of my curved projects that wont get constant expousure to the sun/rain I have built up coats of twp and used watco for the top coat. This takes a lot of hand work,time and wet sanding with 320 grit the result is a deep low gloss that can be touched up real easy and works well with spills and cleanup. J

Just curious...what color ATO is that? Mahogany Flame?

Yep, Mahogany flame. I've got some scrap pieces, I'll try out some of your suggestions, John - thanks! That's a very interesting idea topcoating with danish oil.

Keep in mind twp is close to a resin base like watco, I have no clue how ato will react. J

kelleynelson, very nice table.

What size of the leg did you use, is that 4x4?

Also i see that you are using 1x4, what do you think of 1x6.

I am planning on making a table also.

thanks

Hi, yes, it's 4x4 material for the legs. There was a deal on the pricing of the 1x4 Ipe for the top, so that's what I went with ;)

One thing I will say is that the gaps between boards are okay, but not perfect by any means. Using my glue-down only method, you don't have any way to straighten boards that may have a slight bow in them. Most of mine are very straight, but a couple had a little bow. I just arranged them all to best hide that.

Here's a few pictures of it in use on the 4th ;)

Looking Good Kelly,hmmmmmmmmmmmm J

Just checking back in on an old thread - The finish held up reasonably well. It's lightened slightly, just less of a wet appearance. This summer I'll take John's suggestion, do a light sand to clean it up, and then wipe on a little maintenance coat. I could see how if it started to build up, it could get sticky.

The egg got a lot of use in it's first year. I probably cooked on it at least 2 days a week - fantastic is all I can say. Steaks, fish, real bbq, pizza - slow-cooked smoked chicken is amazing.

I used the Australian Timber Oil (Mahog. Flame) on our deck, stairs and floor boards of a walking bridge. Oldest application is now 3 years and it is holding up wonderfully and looks absolutely great. I haven't seen any negatives at all so far. Will keep you posted but so far it's MUCH better than other products I've tried, especially the Olympic prod.
Steve

Mildew mold on furn is killed w/ bleach in the sun only. Spores land everywhere. Mildew happens. Have used Watco Exterior Finish since 1980's on hundreds of pieces of outdoor furn we've sold. Wood chemists tell me the ingredients are about same as in Cabot Australian Timber Oil; 1) linseed oil, 2) tung oil and 3) a penetrating resin sealer that hardens in the wood. Reoil once a year with a Light Coat, wipe in half hr (this is w/ kiln-dried white oak furniture). Furniture looks really good 19 years later.

Stained my new wooden privacy fence with ATO mahogany flame three weeks ago. The first big rain this week created unsightly marks where water beaded on an interior ledge.
Any tips for cleaning? Recoating?