I've been reading these forums for a long time and can count on my fingers the number of writers who claim to have good luck with Scott's with weed control. Generally Weed-n-Feed products do not work as well as the marketing people lead you to believe. You'll get much better results fertilizing first and then spot spraying something like Weed-G-Gone two weeks after the fertilizer. That timing break explains the reason why WNF doesn't work. The weeds need to be growing well to die well. If you apply both at once, the herbicide dissipates before the weed gets healthy enough to take it up. Crabgrass in bermuda is darned hard to control. There are some chemicals that might work but the best defense is a strong, dense turf. Water deeply and infrequently to minimize the weed seed germination. Deeply means for an hour per zone and infrequently means weekly during the summer. Mow bermuda at your mower's lowest setting, and fertilize monthly for best control.

I don't understand the need to do so much work to get rid of a plant. Grass is like any other growing plant, it has roots and uses water and soil to grow and needs sunshine to prosper. So, eliminating any of them should kill the plant. The work involved to remove it may be an arduous task on a summer day but cover it with a black covering--any dark material that can be laid down, kept from blowing off, will kill the grass in short order. Another thing, if you have some spare framed windows, laying them over a lawn will kill the grass in one sunny day.....even on an overcast day. Then the problem of removing the resulting dead material is still necessary. The best part of these types treatments, the soil is not affected, no chemical poison and the replacement seeding/sodding can be made as soon as practical.

You can relax since one application of one of those poisons is not going to do great harm to your Soil Food Web. This article, on Natural Lawn Care from Ohio State may be of some help. Here is a link that might be useful: Natural Lawn Care

Anchor Industries makes Anchor covers. As for who is good? I am. I only use Loop-Loc brand covers. You can PM me through the forum. Click on My Page and email. I love waterfalls! Hitting pool plumbing happens on occasion. Even to me. There is no way to know where or how deep the pipes are without have been the one to run the plumbing unless the homeowner point's it out to the tech measuring the pool. Normally, the plumbing is at least 18" below and run along the outside of the pool to the main plumbing trench. The pipes should only be 15" long though I often add a 2' piece of #5 rebar in the hole for extra strength. Undulations from wind can cause the pipes to rise. The rebar I add provides a substantial increase in holding power, especially if the pipes had lifted and a new snow load happens before they get tapped back down. Safety covers normally overlap the edge of the pool anywhere from 9" to 24", depending on the manufacturer and conditions around the pool. Add the length of the spring and strap, or in the case of an Anchor cover, the thick rubber strap that is usually found on them, to bring the anchor in pipe assembly well away from the pool and the plumbing. This makes hitting plumbing a very rare occurrence. It's not due to the installer's incompetence usually. I put the blame on the builder not setting the plumbing as deeply as it should be. Scott