Dear Lord.... Are you guys SERIOUS with the Canola-Oil crap?!??!!? A PLANT-based oil mixed with a PETROLEUM-derived oil....Wow. What some people believe..... Santa-Claus must be real too I guess! Also: The fantasies about not needing to sand lumber is a bunch of crap too: * Mill-glaze on most new lumber can only be removed by sanding lightly. * U.S. Forest-Service studies have proven that IN TWO WEEKS, 50% of the Lignin & Cellulose of typical unstained "new" deck wood is fried-out by the Sun. It's not very visible to the naked eye though!! * This means....50% of woods "Stain-holding" power is gone in TWO WEEKS. * The cure...??? SAND OFF degraded wood layer. Simple as that. * Deck cleaning/scrubbing can do it too, but then you're waiting for drying time.... * Sanding is ALWAYS best. My west-facing/full-sun Redwood deck is now 16 yrs. old. Have sanded the floor twice now, and have used Sikkens SRD every 3rd year. Faron

Wow, thanks for sharing your experience, guys. It sounds like you've both had good experiences doing things in pretty different ways. Thanks for the detailed suggestions, pressurepros. I've gone to your site and read up on the RAD system. It sounds impressive, and I'm thinkin about using it. The cedar is already bought and paid for, so I may be stuck with the non-kiln-dried variety from the big-box store. I've made some calls, though, and may be able to trade for KD stuff if it will make a difference. It sounds like gorillabuilder doesn't think it will. What's the advantage you see in it? Thanks for the pointer to the forestry guide, gorrillabuilder. Actually, I love hearing about the science behind what I'm doing. Today I read most of chapter 15 on finishes. You pros probably know most of this stuff already, but it was educational for me. If any other novices are reading this with similar questions, you can find the guide online at http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/fplgtr113.htm Some of the stuff I took away from the guide was, You want a finish that is going to repel water, but also allow vapor to pass in and out because, (a) water vapor is going to get in, it's just a question of how quickly, and (b) when water does get in (either as vapor or liquid), you want it to leave; you don't want your coating to hold it in the wood. A finish that puts a thick film on your deck (eg. paint) will keep out vapor the best. If you cover all surfaces. And only until it cracks. Then, it's going to cause the most water to be retained in the wood. These sort of supported what I think pressurepros has been saying here for awhile - you don't want to finish the wood in a way that's going to trap water inside. However, the guide also said "The paint film inhibits drying, as shown. This retardation of drying can have a drastic effect on the durability of painted wood fully exposed to the weather. The moisture content of the wood can approach the range where decay fungi can become active. This type of wood paint failure usually occurs on painted fences and porch railings that are fully exposed to the weather (Fig. 1510). Applying a water-repellent preservative or priming the end grain of wood used in these applications inhibits the absorption of water at the end grain and thus works in concert with the coating to keep the wood dry. For a coating to be effective in minimizing moisture content changes in the wood, it must be applied to all surfaces, particularly the end grain. The end grain of wood absorbs moisture much faster than does the face grain, and finishes generally fail in the end grain first (Fig. 1511). Coatings with good moisture-excluding effectiveness that are applied to only one side of the wood will cause unequal sorption of moisture, increasing the likelihood that the wood will cup (warp). When finishing siding, it is important to allow the back side of the wood to dry, particularly if it is finished with paint with high moisture-excluding effectiveness. Applying a water-repellent preservative or primer to the end grain and back of siding (see section on back-priming) prior to installing the siding improves resistance to water yet allows the siding to dry. Cupping can be minimized by using vertical-grain lumber and by minimizing the aspect ratio." What I take away from this chapter is that applying a vapor barrier (eg. paint) to all 6 sides will do exactly what pressurepro is warning against. However, since a water-repellent preservative is not a vapor barrier, applying it to all 6 sides shouldn't have that affect, but should in fact be beneficial. At worst, it sounds like a waste of preservative. If we're all still around in a few years, I'll report back and let everyone know how it worked out. Gorillabuilder, how do you apply the sealer to your deck? Did you brush and flip, or dip the boards? I'm taking to heart the suggestions you guys made to weather the wood a little onsite before installing it. I'm a little nervous, though, because I've had one unfinished board sitting at the site for a few weeks (I had used it as a sample to get a feel for spacing), and it is now *really* warped. If I lay the new boards flat across the joists, though, and don't leave them out in the elements for weeks, maybe they'll hold up better. No one seemed keen on the deck clips, so it looks like I'm stuck with deck screws through the surface. That may have saved me a couple hundred bucks, but it'll expose my imperfectly-aligned and spaced joists. So, my revised plan would be, 1. Bring the wood to the site, lay it across the joists 2. clean it right away w/the RAD system or Cabots cleaner/brightener (no sanding!) 3. Let it weather for 3 days 4. Stain all 6 sides with a "paraffinic oil based, trans oxide pigmented, semi transparent penetrating sealer" 5. Let the stained wood dry for 2 days (again, across the joists) 6. Install it (the old fashioned way, not with clips) Thanks for sharing your time and experience, guys. David

If I have this right some of the decking has been installed and some of it hasent starting in 2010. All of it was prefinished.Some of them have surface checks. I vote to finish the install in a timely nature with the material you can live with. If you replace some of it dont pre finish it. Mill glaze is an urban mith. After the install is done and you think it needs it strip the finish, use an oxalic acid wash, put more finish on. I use twp product, www.woodrich-brand.com sells good product as well. J.

First, your deck is not ruined so you can rest easier knowing that your project is salvagable. For future reference or for new readers building decks you should always clean and prep your deck before sealing regardless of whether it is sanded ot not. Restore-a-Deck is a two part kit made for this type of prep. Another thing to consider is that using a clear sealer is not your best bet for two reasons.. One is that the wood will turn gray as there is no UV protection or sunblock if you will, in a clear sealer. You need some type of pigmentation to absorb and/or block UV rays. The second caveat of a clear finish is that any discolorations in the wood, especially if not cleaned before sealing will be made that much more noticeable. Never go above 80 grit sandpaper when doing a deck. It will cause more problems with sealer penetration. I use 60 grit all the time and never have any issues. One has to keep in mind this is an outdoor surface. The goal of trying to achieve the finish of an interior hardwood floor is not only extremely difficult it is impossible to maintain. You make certain tradeoffs of beauty for the sake of longevity. I have introduced the Baker's Gray Away line of sealers which is outstanding for softwoods like cedar. It is a conditioning oil that pentrates and keeps the wood from getting damamged by UV rays and water penetration/evaporation cycles. If this were me, and considering the time of year (not sure in which region you are located) I would keep what is on there and redo the projects in the spring. The Restore-a-Deck cleaning kit's step-1 will emulsify that clear coat (as long as it is oil based and not an acrylic water borne) and allow it to be washed away. You would probably need to apply a second coat of the cleaner to penetrate deep into the wood and remove those stains and dirt burried in the wood. You would follow with a step-2 pH balancing agent and your cedar will look fresh built and the pH enviroment will be perfect for applying a penetrating sealer. No matter what product (stain sealer) you go with make sure it is a penetrating oil based product. Hope this helps.