Can you freeze a sealed 6 layer dip?
12 years ago
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Comments (11)
- 12 years ago
- 12 years ago
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How can you freeze your green beans?
Comments (10)Well, you know, we've only had the beans three times so far in the last 10 days or so. We can keep up with them at that pace, but I was just looking ahead in case I do have extras that I can keep till later in the year. I had heard of blanching, but I didn't quite remember. Let's see if I have it right. Throw the beans in boiling water for 1 1/2 minutes, take out and immerse in ice water, dry, and then put them in a ziplock bag. Try to take as much of the air out of the bag (Mary, interesting idea about the straw). Alternatively, I might try 'blanching' them in the microwave and then the rest as above. Is that right? Now I almost hope I have extras just to try this procedure out! Thank-you, everyone. P.S.- Carol, how do you make oven-roasted beans? Anna...See MoreCan I freeze these Florentines
Comments (3)I hate to see a query languish unanswered so I did a search. And found this: Bake the cookies until they are lacy and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Gently slide the parchment paper with the cookies onto a rack and cool completely. Transfer the cookies to paper towels. Repeat with the remaining batter, lining the baking sheets with clean parchment for each batch. (The cookies can be made up to this point 2 months ahead. Cool completely, then store airtight in the freezer. Defrost before continuing.) Here is a link that might be useful: Giada's florentines....See MoreFreezing taco dip?
Comments (1)Probably fine to freeze but I’d just eat it and buy more later if needed..but I’m not a big freeze and eat type person. I let the professionals at Amy’s freeze stuff for me :P...See MoreTyvek not sealed at bottom of wall and not overlapped 6" at seams
Comments (27)Joseph Corlett, LLC, Who knew "Follow the manufacturers' instructions" could be controversial?!? I'm not saying that bad building products were never produced. There have been some serious failures (LP siding, de-zinking pex plumbing fittings, flammable high-rise cladding) I'm also not saying that superior installation methods and components aren't sometimes available. (Forget Teflon tape, I've always used Permatex #2 on gas line threads and they will never ever, ever leak.) I am saying that the vast majority of installers do not have the technical depth of knowledge to substitute or disregard installation instructions. I am also saying that when homeowners have a question about what is "proper and correct" and need a reference, look at the installation instructions. In residential work, bad installs are vastly more prevalent than faulty products. I am also suggesting that products that deal with preventing water intrusion (including shower enclosures btw) are much more likely to do major and costly damage that goes undetected over time than almost any other system other than a faulty foundation. If one of your sink installs falls, it's pretty obvious what happened and who's responsible. Not so with a bad window flashing install that goes undetected for years. Many of the major building product manufacturers do have field reps / engineers who do get out in the field. They learn why their products fail in the field under real world installs. James Hardie, just for example, has changed their installation instructions over time. Windows on Washington Ltd, I've done a fair amount of work on old homes. My experience is admittedly limited to the mid-west. The older homes I've worked on range from some in the 1880's to many in the 1900's and 1910-20's as well as the 1940's. What I can tell you is that the wood framed homes in the 1880's - 1920's used mostly wood (cedar) siding with very little flashing (very little copper at times) and they had tar paper under the siding. If there was sheeting at all under the cedar siding and tar paper it was 1x boards - usually diagonally - not solid panels of glued OSB or plywood. To say that the walls weren't airtight is a huge understatement. We didn't see insulation installed in the walls commonly until the 1960's. (Insulation can act as a sponge and trap water in the wall). Those walls did see water intrusion especially around the windows, doors and band boards and especially after some years. They survived precisely because they were able to dry out instead of rot - not because the build quality or workmanship was so much better....See More- 12 years ago
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