I am not an expert but based on past posts: You should clean the deck before you seal it. The pros here recommend sodium percarbonate (clean) and then oxalic acid (brightener). I am going to use Wolman DeckBrite (sodium precarb) and then Cabots brightener as I already purchased them from a local H/W store. You can also buy the cleaner/brightener combo from http://www.restore-a-deck.com/ aka pressurepros store. This is a highly praised product line. Yes TWP 500 , not 100, is available in NY. TWP "coated" is recommended for IPE and other hardwoods by John Hyatt (and reaffirmed by others). I am not sure about PT wood. I'm sure YWP would be good but I would probably go with Cabots or something I could buy locally. - Adam

Sanding with 80 grit will be fine no need to do the whole deck. After 10 years of puting down ipe I have found its better for my jobs to clean the project and put the TWP finish on.Many Folks have diferent ideas on this,some say wash it down with water a few times or use an oxalic acid wash,or wait a while even before puting the ipe on, and a lot of other things that I dont do and never have. I have found with my projects one coat of twp and just leave it alone. The wood will get usta its new home in a few months,then an oxalic acid wash,another coat. Leave it alone. Learn to work with this finish it is a build coat thing not a whole lot different than washing/waxing your car. I use a paint pad on a pole for the deck brush the rails. Your not killing snakes take your time,its very relaxing to me when I pamper my own project. Pick a day with good weather and of course when the Nascar race is not going on. J

Bump... anybody?

I think TWP is fine product. I know of several wood resto guys that I respect very much and they speak highly of it. I refrain from making too many comments for two reasons.. 1) I have limited experience with it so I am not qualified to advise on it longevity or compare it to other products. 2) I have other products I have found that give me better one coat coverage and last a bit longer. These are not really available to the public so if I had to choose a product that is sold retail I would choose Ready Seal or TWP. If you have been satisfied with the SD in the past and you are certain the formulation is the same (ie has not been reformulated to meet new VOC standards) go with it. I feel your pain about the sanding. Acrylics are a nightmare. You could have removed the product you are talking about with a contractor grade stripper but even then, it takes finesse and experience. As far as post-sanding cleaning, the RAD system would be advisable because the oxygenating action would lift remaining dirt and dust, kill any mold spores in the wood and the brightening stage would set the wood up with proper pH to hold a penetrating sealer better. If you have gone this far, I wouldn't leave anything to chance.