I'm in Southern California and had my pool replastered with white plaster. After a couple of days I began noticing gray mottling and streaks in the plaster. I called my plaster contractor and both he and his plasterer came out and tested the water several times. The water was always fine. Now, six months later, the entire pool is mottled with some almost black areas and a lot of streaking. Both my contractor and plasterer agree that something went wrong, however blamed bad plaster or inbalanced water as the problem. However, the plasterer agreed to replaster the pool. So, I have a few questions: First, the pool plasterer wants to me sign something before he does the new plaster basically saying if it happens again, he's not responsible. But, aren't I, a customer of a licensed contractor, entitled to a completed job that is free from defects, whether it be materials or workmanship? Is my problem most likely caused from material defects or workmanship issues? Second, obviously I have some concern about having the same plasterer do the work since he couldn't get it right the first time. Does anyone have any ideas for what caused the problem? And, are there questions I can ask to make sure it gets done properly the second time? Third, the plasterer recommended possibly using a Pebbletec product like a Pebblefina rather than just the white plaster because these are known to have less discoloring issues and will last longer. Is this true? Has anyone had a good or bad experience with the Pebblefina Bella Blue? Thank you all. I look forward to your insight and advice!

Sammy Thank you for adding your location :) If you have outdoors, succulents would really benefit from staying there. Plants should be acclimatized to outdoors sunlight, and left there until it gets too cold. Large rocks at the bottom do not help, they likely create more problem. Did you use them because pot doesn't have drainage hole? If not, pls. repot into appropriate pot. I wouldn't use any sand in the mix. Ppl using bagged soil buy Cacti & Succulents soil and mix it 50/50 with sifted perlite (you can use even more of it). If all you have is potting soil, use 60 or 70% of sifted perlite. Fast draining mix and pot with drainage hole will allow plant to be watered thoroughly when needed. You can check deep inside of pot with a bamboo skewer or chopstick: insert for few minutes, then take out and see if I is cold/damp and may have some particles sticking to it = still plenty of moisture and wait few more days to check again. Water only if skewer is completely dry.

Multiple times on this forum, I have stressed this and have highly recommended that water should be trucked in to fill a pool immediately. Anytime puddles are formed on the surface, the plaster will cure at a different rate than the remainder. It's not a stain, but a discoloration due to the water puddling. Water/hydration is part f the curing process. During the fill, sequestering agents must be added to protect against mineral staining. With the pool filled over a few hours, the filtration system must be started. Brushing can start immediately twice a day or more if you prefer. This is to prevent the plaster dust developed from sticking to the surface. The filtration system will pick up suspended material. Brush for 2 weeks. Within 12 hours, the water can be tested and adjusted as needed. DAILY testing should be done for 2 weeks. Within a couple of days typically, the plaster dust can be vacuumed to waste. We will use a vinyl vacuum head that has brushes so as not scratch the surface. Filters must be backwashed or taken apart and cleaned at this point. DAILY testing should be done for 2 weeks. Do not blast the heat in a spa for 28 days. Do not run auto cleaners for at least 2 weeks. We hold off on adding chlorine for as long as we can over this 2 week period. Small amounts are added if hot weather is a factor. Do not add salt for salt water generators for 30 days. (Also, I can’t believe a PB would sell a $100K pool, stick a hose in it on Friday afternoon and leave for the weekend, never mentioning to the homeowner that something as basic as moving the hose could ruin our plaster finish...) I can believe it. I've seen it multiple times in 35 years. The dirt stains probably will come probably out over time as they are just organic material. The discoloration I'm afraid, will not. It may fade a bit over time. Jack's Magic makes several products that deal with stains. They may have a solution for this issue.

I would also recommend exploring other more usual sources of odor in old houses than dry studs. I have never heard of dry plaster having a smell. For example, wax rings around toilets will need to be replaced periodically and may cause toilet water slow leaks around the toilets. Also, drain pipes in areas with low use may have the p trap dried out, allowing sewer gas to pervade the house. This is a general bad smell that is hard to source. I have 2 laundry areas, one of which is not in use now and the trap dries out every few months and it starts to smell. Do you have any drain traps that may just need a cup of water added to them? The previous owners to my own house noticed a terrible smell and it turns out that my house's sewage pipe had not been connected and years of blackwater were draining into a pit under my house. This is obviously extreme but just an example. Did you check the attic area for evidence of bat guano, raccoon nests etc. These can get pretty smelly, especially the bigger animals will cause soaking of the wood/insulation or paper facing of the ceiling below with urine.feces. I am sure others will have other suggestions of hidden sources of stink.