Also I have 1-in pipe to the well pressure tank. 3/4-in copper pipe from the pressure tank out. Pressure set at 50-lbs.

To be clear the amount of iron algae in the toilet tank isn't crazy or anything. You can wipe your fingers across it and remove a little sediment after 2 years in service.

Family living at home will most likely (absolutely) decrease to 3 soon enough (21 yr old, don't ask).

Looking into getting a Fleck 7000SXT, just need a little help on the size.

I'm thinking I need the 48K
7000 bypass valve
10x54 resin tank
1.5 cubic feet of resin
12 gpm service flow rate
2.5 gpm backwash flow rat

Will this be optimal for my situation? Would the 64K be better?

64K specs:
7000 bypass valve
12x48 resin tank
2.0 cubic feet of resin
13 gpm service flow rate
3 gpm backwash flow rate

Looking to buy one of these on Monday if possible. Thanks again for your help.

The numbers that the online size calculators give are all over the place.

If you haven't already purchased:

Go with the 1.5 cu ft softener (you listed as 48K).

Make sure you get:

• High quality American or German made resin. This will provide a tight size distribution for optimal flow within the resin

• Since you have WELL WATER: 8% crosslinked resin.

• Since you have iron, I suggest either fine mesh resin UNLESS you have a problem with particulates in your water.

• Top basket. This serves two purposes. It sets up a proper water distribution during normal operation and prevents resin loss during backwash.

• Gravel underbed. The gravel underbed is there to set up proper flow patterns, improve backwash and prevent channeling. Many softener sales companies like to leave this out or sell softeners with a vortex system instead. Vortex systems weigh less than gravel so they cost less to ship. In addition, they are a more expensive item that adds profit for the softener salesperson, but provides no additional benefit to the homeowner . It simply adds another piece of equipment that can break.

• Fleck or Clack valves. These set the industry standard. Be aware that you will not be able to purchase Clack valves online. This is not a problem if you purchase locally.

• Noryl bypass. Most softeners are available with either Noryl or stainless bypass valves. Both are good valves, but the noryl tends to be more reliable when not used for long periods of time.

• Install the softener with a three-valve bypass. This will make it so much easier if you ever need to remove the softener for repairs or wish to take it with you when you move. Preferably, use full-port, quarter-turn valves.

Be aware that with iron in your water you will need to program your softener to regen more frequently (generally every 3-4 days, but since your iron is fairly so if you get fine mesh resin you could go as long as 5) and with a higher salt dose (8 lb salt per cu ft of resin, minimum). Additionally, you will need to periodically treat with a product like Iron Out, use salt pellet designed for iron removal, or install a Res Care feeder.

Thanks for your help.

I will purchase the:

Fleck 7000sxt w/ noryl bypass
1.5 cu ft
Purolite C100E 8% crosslink resin
gravel underbed
top basket
installed on a 3 valve bypass loop

I will use iron fighter salt

If you wouldn't mind, could you post the valve settings that I would need to change in order to regen every 4 days at 8lbs per cu ft?

I can, but it will have to wait until you have the softener as I will need to know the BLFC size installed on your softener.

The BLFC is 0.125 GPM according to the sticker on the back of the valve.

Thanks for your help!

2. DF=Gal

3. VT = St2b

4. CT=Fd

5. NT=1

6. C=36

7. H=21

8. RS=SF

9. SF=20

10. RC=0 (You are using a % reserve rather than a fixed reserve)

11. CR=0 (DonâÂÂt use variable reserve with iron in your water)

12. DO=4

13. RT=2:00 (or another convenient time when you wonâÂÂt be using water for a couple of hours)

14. Regeneration cycle step times
    BW1=7
    BD=60
    BW2=5
    RR=10
    BF=32

15. Ensure all days are set to ON, unless you have a specific day of the week when you do not want the softener to regen.

16. CD doesnâÂÂt matter unless you set a day to OFF in step 14.

17. FM You shouldnâÂÂt have to change this

18. doesnâÂÂt matter

Exit Master Programming Mode.

Enjoy your soft water.

NOTE: If you received Purolite C100E as you intended, then you can change the capacity in step 5 to 42 (36 is average resin, but the C100E has a somewhat higher capacity). This will make little practical difference since your softener will most often regenerate based on time rather than capacity, but it will make a difference if you are using extra water for whatever reason.

This post was edited by aliceinwonderland_id on Thu, Jan 9, 14 at 14:18

Thanks again.

Just started programming and for:
VT - I don't have St2B, should this be df2B?
NT - I don't have this setting at all. Does this matter?

VT - df2B is the same thing - it designates that you want a double backwash

NT - doesn't matter if it's not there.

The installation instructions said put enough water in to fill over the salt grid. It is the type with 4 legs with holes in the sides of the legs.

Since my BF is 32 minutes and my BLFC is .125 = 4 gallons.

Should I only put in 4 gallons for the first regeneration or should I fill it up over the grid per the instructions (looks like at least 8 gallons)?

Do as the install instructions indicate. After the first regen the softener will self-regulated water level in the brine tank.

So my first regeneration happened last night. When I checked the brine tank this morning there is a lot of water in there. Almost 1/2 full of water, looks like 10-12 gallons.

Am I right about the settings of BF-32 with a with a BLFC of 0.125 should be 4 gallons in there? 4 gallons measured below the salt grid when I first filled the tank.

It didn't trigger the safety float but the water is right at the bottom of the float.

I also did a hardness test with my Hach 5b just before installation and the hardness was 22 so I set the hardness at 22 instead of 19 as stated above, although I don't think that makes a difference here.

Any idea what's going on?

This post was edited by guller on Wed, Jan 15, 14 at 8:10

I think I figured it out. I stepped through a regen and measured the BF into a gallon jug.

It fills the gallon in 3.5 minutes exactly.

So that should calculate to a BLFC of 0.25 instead of the stickered value of 0.125.

I will set the BF to 14 to get 4 gallons in the brine tank.

Do I have this right?