You should be able to fill the spa by turning the pump on. If the check valve is accessible the kit to repair the valve should run around $30-50 plus about 1/2 Hr labor. There is also a possibility that it may be one of the three way spa valves instead of the check valve. A good repair company should be able to diagnose and fix in short order.

Post a picture of your equipment pad and plumbing there. We'll see where the check is, be able to identify it and point you towards a corrective action.

Scott

Had the same problem last year. I changed the plunger parts but every month spa would drain. The check valve was out of round on the inside. Wore out the rubber O-ring on the plunger. I replaced it with a new check valve and have not had a problem since. Mine was on the infloor cleaning pipe that goes to the spa.

i'm having a similar problem that i cannot work out. my spa drains back into the pool. i have replaced every check valve cover and it is still happening. this is the first time i've seen someone say the 3 way valve might need replacing. here is a picture of my pad (i stitched 3 together so some things may appear blurred). any ideas of what to try next?

{{!gwi}}

I assume the spa is raised.

The check valve bodies appears pretty close (too close IMHO) to the heater and may have warped. Or the seats the flapper fit in have been nicked and won't seal. I'd replace them.

The other possibility is the 1st 3 way valve in front of the pump messed up inside. That would allow water to drain from the spa drain to a skimmer. You probably wouldn't notice it during normal operation since more water flows in than leaves the drain and the spill looks pretty normal.

that one i can replace easily. i'll try that first. actually have a brand new one at the house.

as for the 3 way valve, do those use the regular jandy never lube valves and then the actuator just sits on top of that?

also, how would you suggest replacing it? not much room in there to use a repair fitting.

thanks.

4 long screws to remove the actuator and 4 screws to free the valve lid.

Look there first since there is no cutting. If the gasket is malformed, you found your culprit. Otherwise it is the check valves or leaking plumbing.

Which check valve is tight? The one by the heater return port or the spa return? A closer picture would help.

When, exactly, does the spa drain? When the pump is off, when in spa mode, or at random? Does it drain completely, to the jets, or equallize with the pool? These answers will solve the problem unless the spa actually leaks.

The bottom line is that the Jandy check valve you have at the label SPA RETURN is not very reliable in that use. You are asking for 100% protection on a horizontal valve that does not always close. To top it off, whoever installed the system did it very oddly with the 3 way in that position. Also, your feeder is certainly syphoning back into the check valve and wiping out the flapper stem.

You can be done with it by cutting out the check valve and installing the corrosion resiistant Magna valve. It is a white boxy looking valve. Cut the SPA RETURN pipe about 1.75" inched above the ground and glue on the new check valve in a vertical position. Street 90 to the other side of the existing Jandy valve.

Then, replace the suction and return 3 way diverters ONLY with new o-rings.

Finally, you need to stop all sources of leaks. The ground is wet and if you have a slight air leak or seepage leak, it will burp the check valves when the pump is off and cause the drop.

If the spa is not dropping below the lowest jet, you are in good shape with these repairs.

repair_guy,

I don't think the second gent has a pool return in his spa. He might, but i don't think so. The check valve after the heater I think was intended to keep freshly chlorinated water from the Pentair/Rainbow chlorinator from back flowing into the heater from pressure of the raised spa in the event of the spa's check valve's failure.

I think the 3way in front of the pool pump is the culprit. Call it a gut feeling. He'd never see it in normal operation, just when it' off.

I think we both would agree that the equipment pad is more compact than it should be but it is what it is.

Is the valve on the bottom left of the link the MagaValve the one you were referring to? Please note the link has the picture I want and in no way is endorsed by e as I have never conducted and type of business relationship with them. I thank them for being there for reference though.

Disclaimer suck.

Scott

Here is a link that might be useful: Place where I found MagnaCheck valve.

yes, it does only drain when the pump is off.

it drains down to the returns at the bottom of the spa - way below the jets - probably pool level.

Sounds like the suction side valve. Drain the spa before checking it. If the valve is below the water line, plug all suction lines in the pool and valve off the return lines. This way, you won't get flooded when you pull the valve apart.

poolguy,

The one I was referring to was up and to the right of yours. 0801-20H Corrosion Resistant Check on that site.

CLAY, below the lowest jet and equal with the pool is a suction valve diverter.

Forgot to mention that after changing all the valves and still having the problem I somehow found a check valve under ground and that was the one that had the problem. You never know

my latest update:

finally this weekend got around to checking this. pulled the 3 way apart and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary - maybe i should just replace the diverter anyway? i haven't been able to just find the gasket.

we were in the spa though (switched to spa mode), and the spa had drained quite a bit in that time (after the initial drop) - if that helps diagnose the problem.