Dont use nails on ipe.

Dont use the clips on ipe

Dont use a belt sander on an outside deck.

Dont pre finish any decking lumber.

Treating cuts with thined down wax is a waste of time and money.

Do hire a Contractor from your questions you are not ready. J.

John,

By "face nail", I guess I meant "face screw"... with all this other work going on, I get my terms mixed up.

But, I guess I had higher hopes for the quality and depth of your answers. This work is definitely not rocket science, but I do need a little guidance on the details and tips for success. You seem to know what you're talking about based on other posts, so I'm a little surprised by your reaction to my questions which I thought were fairly comprehensive. If I've asked some ridiculous questions, please feel free to rip me for them, but I would appreciate any honest answers you or other experienced IPE contractors can give.

Thanks.

Dave,

Lot of questions. All of them have been asked before, and can be found in the archives. I'll answer a few.

FASTENING and INSTALLATION
"Does face nailing simply involve countersinking, then fastening with stainless screws, and plugging?"

It may sound simple, let us know what you think when you're finished.

"Is there any hope that I could get away with clips? Do they really look a lot better than face nailed decks? I've seen many pictures of clipped decks, but not many face nailed with plugs."

I don't trust clips, and don't used them. If you are gonna plug, the results are as good as using clips...only much stronger.

"What construction adhesive do you recommend if any?"

I don't use adhesive. Screws are sufficient.

"What is the proper spacing between boards and what's the best way to ensure even spacing?"

I make my own spacers out of Ipe scrap. I mill them to 3/32". When the Ipe shrinks, your gaps should be around 1/8"-5/32".

"Do you recommend purchasing a bow-wrench to wrestle the less straight boards into place if needs be?"

I use the BoardBoss, but a Bowrench works well too. You should have one or the other.

"Can I use torx drive stainless screws from home cheapo? I've had good luck with their expensive brand of decking screws for some interior framing and I fell in love with the torx drives screws doing that. I dislike the square drives because they seem to strip a lot more easily and I cannot imagine having to grind one of those out of my new deck."

Use whatever type you like. I use square drive, and have no problem. I drive my screws with a Makita impact driver. I recommend that you get one. If you're gonna plug, the best screw are the bugle head dekker screws from mcfeelys.com. No need to use stainless, and bugle heads hold much better than trimheads. I don't plug much anymore...hard on the knees/back. I use 2.5" brown "headcote" trimscrews, countersunk with the "smartbit". They are visible, but hardly noticable.

"What screw length is recommended?"

at least 2 3/8"

"How many screws per joist and where would you place them? Centered, staggered, etc.?"

2 per joist, 1/2"-3/4" in from the edge.

steve

Welcome Back Steve!! J.

The depth might be too simple for you,I am a simple kinda Guy, and mabey you have more Carpenter know how than it seems. By simple I mean there is the slight possible that you dont know what your geting into. Might live to regret it. But then......mabey not. J.

Hey John mon,
Thanks...I wish I could say that it's good to be back. With the economy tanking, I'm pessimistic about getting work. It's too soon to tell how my deck season will be, but deck projects aren't as necessary as paying the mortgage. Hope you're doing well.

Clueless dave may be clueless, but we've helped out clueless DIYers before, and they built great decks. You never know.

steve

Steve thats got to be bad going back to cold nasty NY from the sunny fun Ricka beach house.
Work is trickling in but the scale has been lowered too maney out of work framers with no overhead and rusty nail guns. I did one eight sided garapa project and I snaged up a big garapa thing this week but I went about 7 mo without any jobs at all this winter. Its mean and lean in CowTown latley.

Thats true with Clueless if he can learn and is willing to do a lot of hard work might come out with a nice project. J.

Hi Dave,

I'm a one-off deck builder like yourself. I think the Deck Pros are just having some fun with ya.

Your back porch has ventilation. Your front porch seems pretty low to the ground, but maybe it is dry. Probably alot depends on soil. Looks sandy. I would test the front by putting some scrap IPE under it for a month or two. See what happens. If you have to get two deliveries of materials, so be it (they charge by weight anyway).

Frankly, before you buy, ask for two scraps of Ipe from any supplier you are considering. They should provide free. East teak does.

I used hidden clips on my deck (Tiger Claw G). A lot of hoots and hollers here about that. But, it's my deck. The clips work OK for me. If not that, I would just face screw it. Plugging and sanding is not for me. Construction adhesive is OK. Deck will squeak less. But it can be messy. How neat are you when you work? Brand name probably doesn't matter much.

To use hidden clips you have to use 5/4" (actually 4/4 finish milled). But if you face screw it, and you have 16" centers, you can use 4/4 (3/4" milled). I think this is correct.

I don't know about T&G for outside. Probably not good. Want drainage. If you get ice in the T&G joint, definite bad news.

Not a concensus about waxing the end grain. I did. Can't hurt.

Use a carbide blade, wide kerf. You could do it with a hand circular saw, but better is a chop saw, 10" or 12". Avoid breathing the sawdust. Some folks can get an alergic reaction.

You have to lay the deck perpendicular to the floor joists. I can't tell from the pics which way that is. Cut all butt joints as you go, centered on the joists. Except for the first, against the house, let what hangs over the sides "run wild". When done, snap a chalk line on the perimeters, then trim with a hand circular saw. Straight lines.

Good luck!

My deck project from last year.

Again nice work Tom !! any friend of East Teak is a friend of mine

If I was going to use any of them the tiger claw fastener would be the one. I did a little timbertech earthwood job with them, not bad at all for what they are. But I go T&G with ipe for the no fastener look and yes there are a few litte tricks involved but done corectley freeze,ice,water,direct sun has no more efect than any other decking has.

I do not agree with wide carbide blade. Defentley do use a thin kerf carbide on the skill saw and the miter box. J.

Hello John mon!

Good to talk.

I am trying to remember and learn as much as I can. No substitute for doing it. I have read that some folks complain that the newer saw blades (China and such) deflect more. Probably no biggy. Most folks can probably not even see it. I have also read a lot about it with the explosion of router bits. All the big cutters are 1/2" shanks. 1/4" is old news.

A word to Dave - took another look at that pic of the front porch. Where are the gutters and leaders for all the rainwater off your roof (and buried pipes to take it away from the house)???? Seriously ... If you don't have roof drainage, I wouldn't try ipe in the front. But I live 200 miles from you.

Yo Tom,> Jesada

Hi, Newbie here. I know this post is from way back, but would you mind sharing where in MD you got your ipe from and how you found the quality/delivery? Thanks!

We live in MD and got our IPE from East Teak. I think we dealt with George there - he was great. Also bought Garapa from them when we did our vacation home boat dock.