Lots of questions here so I'll try to give my answers based on my experience in playing with both biscuit types and CAMO, as well as my customer feedback. I'm now leaning towards preferring CAMO as a hidden fastener because I think it gives you the best stability possible out of all types of hidden fasteners. With CAMO, you are putting two screws into each joist at a 55-degree angle. With a biscuit system, only one screw. I also like the fact that if you do have problems with a board, you can remove the CAMO fastener and remove the board and replace. It's much harder to do with a clip system and even then you have to plug the replacement board on one end according their own instructions. The gap is a little wider but I don't think you will be able to tell much of a difference with a 6" board. They have a 4" jig out now. How much airflow do you have under the deck? How high is it off the ground? These factors are important if you ware worried about cupping. Most cupping I've seen is due to no airflow underneath and the deck is low to the ground with a moisture imbalance. A thicker and narrower board helps prevent this, so 5/4 thickness would offer more stability than 4/4 if it works for your budget, but I've seen CAMO used numerous times on 1x6. The screw hole will ride a little higher on the eased edge of a 5/4 board but still very minimal aesthetic. You can see the screw holes if you re looking at them from an angle, but over the top they are barely noticable. Since Ipe is darker, especially if put a finish on it, I don't even think you'd notice them. CAMO's stainless steel screws are 316 stainless (vs. 305) which is what you would want for a salt environment. They are more expensive, but if you do the math with CAMO vs. clip system, CAMO comes out less expensive and I think it's more secure. Finally, PRE-DRILL your holes. Stainless Steel is soft and you will strip out more scews than you care to if you don't pre-drill...and let the screw do the work, don't push down on it. CAMO says you don't have to pre-drill but they do recommend that you do for hardwoods. I concur on this with my testing, especially when you are close to the end of the board. I was able to set the stainless screws without pre-drilling, but I stripped out or broke the head off of 1/3 of them and the boards cracked where I tried to fasten them at the ends. On my pre-drilling tests, they set perfectly. Also, if you decide to go with the CAMO, get the PRO jigs since they have screw guides on both sides, making it easier to install without moving the jig. And get two jigs so you can properly space your boards, as well as a BoWrench to make sure they are snug when you are fastening. Start with the outside part of the board (pushing back inwards to your boards already laid), then fasten the inside edge to keep them snug. I built a little 2x2 sample deck out of Garapa using the CAMO sytem that I can send you some pictures of if you want to see them. If CAMO was available when I built my dad's Ipe deck, I would have used it (we face-screwed and plugged it). Every person I have talked to who has used CAMO has loved it, even an installer I know that hates clip style hidden fasteners but now uses CAMO on every job. I've only had one installer say that he didn't like it, I think becuase he was pretty set in his ways and did't want to take the time to get used to it. So I recommend that you practice on some scrap pieces before you use it on your main boards. I think CAMO just cut a deal with Lowe's so you may see them in the store soon. There are plenty of online retailers to buy from, so maybe buy one jig and a small 100pc package to play with them to see if you like it. If not, keep the jig packaging, clean it off and send it back. Minimal investment to test it out. Sorry this is long but it's my .02. Hope this helps.

Retaining walls retain things like dirt/rain.Normaly they have nothing to do with the House structure. It very well could have been the walls were put in because the basement would flood out during a heavy rain bringing all the dirt with it. Your right that is part of landscaping. If you decide to take em out anyway the piers for your deck support should go below the leval of the missing walls. Geting cross ventalation depends on the final deck plan. Its a deal with skirting I have taken to runing the skirting right into the ground because if I dont the Wallet yells at me because it dosent look finished. This happened so many times now I just do it as drill. Its not a good idea>> the skirting soaks up water,the weed eater hits it,dirt builds up around it things like that

1) Yes, you can, and most people do countersink the 1x6 boards without problem. 2) All I can tell you is that I am one who did not bother sealing cut ends and I can't tell the difference. In hindsight I probably would have cut off the wax on the ends of the boards before installing because you can see those marks once you stain, but they fade after a few years. Not a bid deal either way. 3) TWP 116 has both UV protection and mold inhibitor. That being said from what I have seen there is no perfect stain for Ipe. If you want a nicely stained deck you will be doing at least every other year on the horizontals. I used the TWP 116 and have no regrets, but it faded after a year and needed to be resealed after 2. I also occasionally get mold spots on some of the railing. 4) No advice really, but I would also be tempted if I could save that much. riles

First I'd like to thank everyone for the info on this site. Second this is an update to my Ipe deck project. I finished the back deck, except for the step, and am working on the front deck now (pics of that someday). Check the link below to see my photos. Weedy, how exactly do you post the photos directly in this message? I don't see any obvious way to do it. I guess you have to write some (fairly simple) html? This project is taking me forever, being a weekend warrior, having 3 young kids, and 2 unfinished bathrooms inside the house. So the staining will have to wait until next year. Should be ok, right? So right now I am having some concerns with the quality of the Ipe I got. Seems ok, but who knows, this is the one-and-only Ipe deck I have ever built. Some pieces are real dark, some are real light. Some are really really hard (dark boards), some are softer (light boards). Some are clear, some have a tiger-like grain to them. Some seem a bit rough when you run your hand up one way, then smooth if you rub the other way. 3 or 4 boards have lots and lots of checks, almost the whole 15 foot length of board. Most of the boards have no checks. I have one board that looks like it will destroy your foot if you walk on it. I think I'll have to replace that board, I don't know how I did not notice it, when I put that board down. It looks like the grain is sort of lifted, and could cause nasty splinters in your foot (See pictures 10 and 11). 3 or 4 few boards seem fine, but have knots in them (pics 13 and 15). Will these spots worsen over time? I bought 1725 linear feet of boards. There are probably six 15-footers that I probably should toss in the dumpster. Maybe six others that are usable but not the greatest. Not really sure about the rest, if it is so-so, good, great, top quality or not. Of course I was assured that the Ipe was top quality, all heart wood clear Ipe, blah blah blah. Would anyone expert here want me to mail them some scrap cuts to examine? Or even better, stop by and look at my deck? Just kidding… The railings. I chickened out on the Ipe railings. No way I get the project done this year. So I did the shiny PVC rail, and put an Ipe rail on top of it. I like it, I think the front deck I will do the same. The pics in that gallery are hi-res, so you can view full screen, or better yet download them and zoom in real close to see the detail. Any info appreciated, Jim. Here is a link that might be useful: Ipe deck gallery