Is the floor surface even with the edge (not with a lip around it?) If so, you could use plastic dish drain mats, which are raised on 3 sides. The drain water would go right over the edge if the 4th side was at the edge. I think you could do it so no water got on the balcony floor but rain would still probably cause grit to collect around the edge and leave the "shape" of the mats after you picked them up, but that stain probably wouldn't be a difficult one. Other thing I thought of was a shop-vac but you might not want to devote space to storing that. Maybe there's a mini version? I also am a firm believer in flushing water through containers and letting them get pretty dry between waterings which, as you probably know, means that a lot of water can flow through before it starts to sink in to the "dirt." You can avoid having to use as much water if you start with a little sprinkle, give it time to seep in a bit, then maybe half an hour later water again until you see some runoff. I do that to try to reduce the amount of water flowing on the boards of our wood deck (which isn't painted on the bottom.) A lot less drainage is necessary to accomplish saturation and moderate flushing. If it's OK to just paint the surface when you leave, that may be the easiest long-term solution. Just don't worry about it, then clean well (so it sticks) & paint when you leave. Hope some of this might apply/appeal to you. Good luck!

I had the same problem and It was so challenging. It always looked unfinished and I felt like people would fall off of the edge of the deck. Plus our dog insisted it was a dog run which was kind of gross. We found a work around. We bought a fence screen from an online store that offers next day delivery (website to remain unnamed. :-) They come in different lengths, height and colours. (Forgive the mess. We were prepping the spot in front of the equipment to extend the concrete pad and address the gap) The fence screen we are fast an easy install and this fabric doesn't fade or rip. It allows air to flow through but keeps dirt from going through the fence. After I dug a trent for the trees, I ran the landscape fabric over stones that we placed along the bottom of the fenceto create a basin. then back filled with soil. Fence fabric https://www.amazon.ca/Windscreen4less-Privacy-Grommets-Warranty-Customized/dp/B001OJXVKW/ref=sr_1_7?crid=LGXTY2DJMA7U&keywords=fence%2Bscreen&qid=1652055342&sprefix=fence%2Bscreen%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-7&th=1 The chainlink acts like the retaining structure, the fence screen helped to keep everything on myside and the landscape fabric, wood and stone helped with drainage. We have a 20" drop from deck height so we didnt' have to dig down too far to plant cedars and we could fill up the gap with soil. To break up the green we had cedar privacy screens, strategically placed to be over drainage, and grounding wires for the pool. I plan to plant hydrangea bushes at the base of the cedar screens but my husband wants hicks yews (no maintenance required and all around greenery for those of use who have cold weather 8 months our of the year).

Hi Jenn, I think that's a good back yard for a woman in her 80s- except for the Queen Palms. I'm with you- get them out of there. They will begin to drop litter soon and the pool will be a mess. Your idea of raising the narrow bed with bricks- it would look much better. I also like the idea of a few large pots to give some height, especially over in the corner by the pool equiptment, but also on the patio. The short step along the garage looks too narrow to me to put planter boxes in. Would the water drain into the pool from the planters? If you could put a wider raised planter box in front of the step between the two windows that might look nice. Or another huge pot- since that space needs some height too. Plant choices- I'd avoid anything that requires trimming back every season. I also think the space needs as much green as possible. I would plant tall nandinas in the bed at the back, and pygmy date palms in the huge pots, with some sort of trailing iceplant or sedum that flowers. Maybe even ivy geraniums, since they flower almost all year and require so little care. Depending on how much sun those wall pots get, I don't know how well most trailing succulents would do. Mine get sunburned in those conditions. I would plant either Sprenger Asparagus ferns or a deep green ivy, so there's some green on that wall. Finally, I'd have something tall and skinny in that little patio bed- Mother-in-law tongue, if it's not too hot. Canna lilies would look good for most of the year, but they might not bloom in that much shade. The bed is so small I would probably just have one kind of plant in it. I realize that these are all ho-hum plants, but there are very good reasons that some plants are ubiquitous. Your mom seems to like a tropical look, and these are low-care and except for the cannas, relatively water-wise choices. They will live in the reflected glare of concrete and water. Have fun with your project! Renee

Lucy you must be a speed-reader. Read further and youÂll find that there is no "whole HC set-up" needed. Any of these plants can be growing in either potting soil or expanded clay pebbles (aka hydroculture) without drain holes and saucers. ItÂs a media choice not a "set-up". ThereÂs no need for special "hydroculture" planters. As recommended by NASA scientist Dr. Bill Wolverton in his best selling book "How to Grow Fresh Air: 50 Houseplants That Purify Your Home or Office" either expanded clay pebbles or artificial potting soil mix sub-irrigation is preferable over drench and drain top-watering. Those who arenÂt particularly interested in playing in the dirt inside their homes will find that expanded clay pebbles are inert, clean and recyclable. With that said, potting soil measured sub-irrigation where the soil surface is always dry is a close second. Because the soil is dry, there are no fungus gnats or exposure to mold propagation. h.a.t - I'll post some advice about your D. sanderiana problem later today or tomorrow. Greenscaper