Thanks Christophern for taking the time to reply and share your expertise. Have you used Zinsser 123 on cedar shanks before and, if so, did you have problems with tannin bleed? If we add some new shingles to replace a few rotten ones (brand new cedar, of course) would we want to pre-prime those first with an oil like Cover Stain, since new ones are more likely to bleed? Also, how would the Zinsser products compare to "paint store" brand primers you've used? What's the price difference per gallon there, approximately? Thanks to answers to any of the above and sorry to ask so many questions, but I really want to make a good decision before I spend hours and hours stripping, priming and painting.

What stains are you looking at? IDEALLY >>> If using shakes-style cedar, dip the entire shake in stain. Faron

Good morning We have a large DOME house with cedar finished in semi transparent stain. I have talked to two painters, one recommending Sherwin Williams " Resilience " latex paint..the other suggesting Sherwin Williams "Woodscapes", solid stain. The painter recommending stain said house would need to be primed before using paint. Do you have a recommendation and which way we should go? and the best brand for your choice? Thanks in advance John

The traditional answer is that an oil based primer should be used because tannin is water soluble. However, some of the new acrylic, water based primers, such as Kilz Premium, will stop tannin bleed, provided that 18 hours of cure time is given before top coating with a water based paint. Some of the new "paint and primer" paints are also stain blocking. Two coats of the paint itself will stop tannin bleed, but again, only after an overnight cure time before applying the finish coat. And yes, water based paints can be applied over a thoroughly dried oil based primer.