Am I correct in assuming they thought that the layer of concrete that was poured to lay under the paver deck WAS the level of the deck, and so they built everything else to that level? How did so many other things get built before this was noticed??

I'm also wondering why you would ask about a warranty after all this had happened? You didn't ask about a warranty before you signed your contract? Or did you go into this knowing full well you wouldn't have a warranty?

There is a one year warranty - but with the building industry as it is, who can guarantee that? That even goes for the house itself, many, many builders and other building trades, are here one day - and gone the next.

It was noticed almost immediately. The house under construction - is framed and all closed in BEFORE pool subs come onto the scene. The builder poured a the lanai deck, the right height. The deck was dropped/poured 3 inches lower from the standard concrete height - in order to take the pavers. Pavers go on top of this part.

Pool was shot, but they "forgot" about the pavers and shot it too low, and made it so that a concrete deck would then be poured and made the same height as the concrete lanai area.

This is all very confusing to explain, but it a nut shell - the pool is 3 inches too low. They "fixed" it as I described above (added 3 inches all along the shell, add 3 inches to the steps, add 3" to the footings, Lifted and added 3" to the skimmer.. and so on. They HAD to do this in order for us to have the paver deck we ordered (from day one). House contractor did nothing wrong, made lanai right height, but the pool people goofed. I am just hoping that someone who knows about pool construction will be able to tell me if our pool should be okay with this all patched up. Obviously, you don't normally go and add 3 inches to the entire pool. I am upset about the whole thing.

I would recommend a crack isolation membrane between the slab and the pavers. You and your husband have valid concerns, I've dealt with this a few times in commercial construction and can tell you it is difficult to add a thin layer of concrete on top of a concrete slab and not get some cracking. If you add a crack isolation membrane then you won't have to worry about the cracks transmitting through the pavers.

The rebar they doweled into the beam should be epoxied in place, no just pounded into the beam.

tresw, they never mentioned a membrane - and they are now beyond this option ( I think)

rbbindigo, they did use epoxy with the rebar all along the beam, do you feel this is okay? My husband made them remove the "cold joint" poured on the footers, and add the rebar and form the concrete (here it was 4 inches in some places). They are however just adding 3 inches of mud to steps to build them up so we don't have to step 14" into the pool and climb out of it. - no rebar or anything in this area, they claim this is fine on the steps??

tresw, pavers are not set yet, so this we will definitely address. What about the pool though - the added concrete, any opinions on this?

My concrete patio was raised 3 inches as well. They jack hammered the existing concrete and left it in place. they then used wire mesh rather than rebar for the new pour which went right over top of the existing broken up concrete. The concrete was now upwards of 8 inches and not one crack. Over 10 yrs and still no cracks.

dogbone10, thank you! That is at least - reassuring to me! The worst part about the whole thing - is that they were trying to "cover-up" the issue! If they just came out and said, sorry - we made a mistake, but this is how we are going to fix it, and we've done this before, yadda, yadda - we at least would feel less frustrated with them!

Where in Florida are you building?

Hello Tinker. I could have written this same post! Can you advise what was finally done to raise the shotcrete level of the pool and were you satisfied with the result?

The correct method to add new concrete onto set concrete is drill & epoxy rebars vertically with min 1" concrete cover on top of rebar. I would also have recomended a single horizontal rebar 1.5" above wire tied to the vertical rebars.
A coating of hydroscopic epoxy is applied to the set concrete & whilst this epoxy is still wet (most of these epoxys have a working time of 45 - 60 minutes)the concrete is poured onto the wet epoxy.
This concrete 'join' when set has a higher tensile strength than the concrete, it will never let go. I have done test pieces & later smashed apart & it never breaks at the join.

These epoxys for joining new to old (set) concrete are readily available, they are refered to as hydroscopic epoxy as they will adhere or blend into the wet concrete.

With regards to the steps rebars are probably not required, however I would have used the joining epoxy.

Thank you very much "auspool"! Your information is very reassuring!

I used the wrong terminology, these type of epoxy's are Hydrophilic (not hydroscopic as I said in previous post).

Do a google search of "old to new concrete epoxy" & will see that many products are available. I use megapoxy which is an Australian brand.
I have been doing all types of concrete repairs & epoxy based & epoxy/cementious products are the best performers.

karenpool: You don't appear very impressed with my info. I am just saying this is the best way to do it & not have any problems in the future.
New concrete onto old using no type of binder will probably be ok in a stable environment. Unstable soils (clays) that expand & contract as moisture changes may cause future problems.
Hope you don't live on a reclaimed swamp!!!!

One potential problem is wicking, if the new to old joint is behind the waterline tile. The grout used in this tile is not waterproof and will wick water up, and through the grout lines. Once this happens, it could find the new joint, and wick into the joint. If your pool is salt water, it could start to rust the rebar inserts. You really do need that waterproof epoxy spread over the entire joint, in order to keep water out and to have a good concrete to concrete seal.

Hello auspool! Please don't misunderstand, I was very sincere with my comment. Your post was very reasurring and consistant with the fix the PB has proposed. The crew has been working on the added steel and the epoxy is on hand. New shotcrete is scheduled to be applied tomorrow. And, because we don't live on reclaimed swamp, I think we'll be in good shape! :)

Ncrealestateguy thank you also. Fortunately, we are not correcting to the waterline tile but thank you for the caution.

Did they jackhammer out your old skimmer and raise it or just put plastic extension collars on top of it???
Don't worry about the extra depth on your floor, you'll most likely enjoy it slightly deeper. My pool starts at 4' deep because I find 3 1/2 a little shallow for my taste.

See ya,
Kelly